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Not using the jettison feature on the tipup?

Brantel

Brantel

Well Known Member
For those that did not use the jettison feature of the tipup, please share how you are securing the pins or if your using bolts. Pics would be great if you have a great idea. I am not planning to use it at all due to the fact that I want my radio stack closer to the pilot side and that puts the longer radio's penetrating the hat section etc. Some install everything with the bellcrank actuating rod vertical behind the subpanel but this gets in the way of my plan.

Thanks!
 
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Brian, here is what I did.

I didn't use any of the ejection hardware in the middle of the panel as I wanted the space for radios. Yeah, I know I went overboard, but I couldn't help myself.



I did use the pin that came with the kit, but ran them in from the outside instead of the inside of the structure.


I used an Adel clamp with a screw and platenut to make sure that they don't fall out.
I still needed to lay on my back to remove and insert these pins during final assembly, but don't ever expect to remove them again.

Kent
 
You'll be surprised!

kentb said:
I still needed to lay on my back to remove and insert these pins during final assembly, but don't ever expect to remove them again.

Kent
Click to expand...
I've had mine off several times. Down the road when new "stuff" comes out, it's much easier to work on with the canopy off.
 
I'd do it next time

I didn't do it on my plane but wish I had. As Mel noted, there are times it would have been nice to remove canopy for painting, putting a new seal on, radio maintenance etc...

Wow, my 1000th post!!
 
Thus the reason for still making provisions to get the bolts or pins out.

To me at this point, the benifits of not having that stuff in the way will greatly improve my panel layout and I can still pull the pins if I need the thing off.

Sure it will be more difficult, but not that painfull all things concidered.
 
Simple

[img=http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/4323/hpim1683ju8.th.jpg]

I made the access panels in the top front deck..Removing one of those gives access to the tab brazed on the end of the 1/8th welding rod.

remove the screw, pull out welding rod and sharpened pins can be removed because the smaller brake tube slides insides the bigger brake tube.

sharpened points on pins aids realignment when you reinsatll.

Frank
 
Oh yes

Forgot to mention...There are no clamps or anything else to get to...What you see is the sum total of what holds the whole thing in place.

Brake hose is 3/8ths and whatever size slides inside it, available from the local autoparts store...Take your vervier calipers with you.

Total cost less tha $5 I think...Brake tubing is very useful stuff!

Frank
 
pls allow a little blasphemy :) Lowes (and H.D. I'm sure) sells pins that are pre-drilled at several locations along the way.. forgot what they're called. use some sort of cotter pin and that will keep it from backing out. I know it's not "aviation grade" but I see no reason why it wouldn't work.
 
It will work but

Those cotter pins will be very hard to get to.

Besides i wouldn't trust a cotter pin not to fall out and the pin back out of the hinge.

That would be bad!
 
Oh yes

On my method the welding rod pin goes fowards...Takes up no radio space at all...And no laying on your back either..

Just remove the access panel on the front deck, pull the pin, slide hand inside access panel and you can pull on the brake tubing to remove the canopy pins.

Remember to install tubes BEFORE rivetting down top panel as it won't go in other wise.
 
I used the Lowes Aviation Dept 1/4" pins drilled for the spring type safety pin---the kind of saftey pin with two "prongs"--one that goes through the hole in the pin and one curved prong that goes around the pin---It will not come out unless you pull it out. I can also reach it from underneath the panel although I also have the access panels in the top forward skin. I would do it again in a heartbeat and I have had to pull the canopy several times for various things. That steel release system is heavy (several steel parts) and gets in the way of logical placement (my opinion) of radios/switches/etc.

You might also consider something called a "pit pin" (sp??) which has a button on one end which retracts a round bearing retainer on the other. I think you can also get those in the aviation section at Lowes.

Sorry that I have no pics.

Cheers,

db
 
With two big access holes in the top deck, I pretty easily installed a bolt, washer, castle nut, and cotter pin. Removal will require a whole 10min. and reinstallation another 15min.. No big deal.
 
This is how I have done it...

img08931ys7.jpg


I have done this on a number of tip up's (including the one I am flying now). Just remove a screw that safety's it with the adel clamp, rotate the handle 90 deg. and pop off the canopy.
It takes about two minutes. Sometimes I even remove it just to clean / polish the inside of the canopy.
 
Nice install Scott

But I didn't want any of that structure getting in the way of me spending lots of money on my panel.:p



Kent
 
I use the mech. as supplied but cut the top hat down to just enough to hold it all. Leave the jettison handle parts off. This leaves a nice little lever for you to turn the pins in with. This gives lots of room for radios. It is best to use the system, it makes it very easy to remove the canopy. If you can't easily remove it you will be cussing for the rest of the years that you own the plane. You will be removing the canopy several times.
 
kentb said:
But I didn't want any of that structure getting in the way of me spending lots of money on my panel.:p



Kent
Click to expand...

That is one trade off...but it depends on how your panel layout works out.
The airplane I am flying now (not the one in the photo) has the same installation and I have a full hight radio stack just to the right of the mechanism and everything worked out very well.
 
rvbuilder2002 said:
img08931ys7.jpg


I have done this on a number of tip up's (including the one I am flying now). Just remove a screw that safety's it with the adel clamp, rotate the handle 90 deg. and pop off the canopy.
It takes about two minutes. Sometimes I even remove it just to clean / polish the inside of the canopy.
Click to expand...

What are you using for the vertical "handle/rod" here?
 
scard said:
With two big access holes in the top deck, I pretty easily installed a bolt, washer, castle nut, and cotter pin. Removal will require a whole 10min. and reinstallation another 15min.. No big deal.
Click to expand...

I'm planning on doing what Scott did. Real easy to reach in there on mine. (Well that is after removing 32 screws :rolleyes:)

access1.jpg
 
boom3 said:
I'm planning on doing what Scott did. Real easy to reach in there on mine. (Well that is after removing 32 screws :rolleyes:)
Click to expand...
And I can comment that after flying mine for a little over two years, we've had the canopy off maybe two or three times. Still no big deal. It is actually more of a hassle pulling the antenna cables that I have on the glare shield than the hinge bolts.
 
Just shorten the pull handle and let it only protrude thru the back panel.

This give you all of the radio panel/stack back for other uses.

You won't be able to jettison in flight, but I doubt that would ever be a viable option anyway.

I put a adel on it like the picture also.
 
I did what Cary mentioned but with a bit of a twist. I installed the top hat so that one actually PUSHES the rod to release the canopy. This is done by swapping the connections for the L and R bolt push rods. Then I shortened the T handle (to about 4 inches) to make an L (somewhat like Scotts photo but smaller/shorter) which protrudes through the forward-most panel only. Push to release or pull to close -when closed the L-shaped pull handle folds neatly over against the bulkhead panel and can be secured with an adel, or in my case, I just put it in a clip fitting. I would note that this will only work on a tipup where you have access behind the instrument panel.

greg
 
It's my turn to install my release mechanism. I like Kents installation. Anyone willing to reopen the discussion on this? I don't want to install the whole mechanism. I don't have any trouble working under the panel. I am leaning toward just installing the canopy hinge with a nut and bolt.
 
Nut and bolt and cotter pin for me. The biggest reason I did not install any of that mess is because I wanted to use the area where the mechanism goes for radio penetrations.

On a tipper this helps keep the radio's out from under the hinge areas that can leak. Also I wanted my radio's closer to the pilot.

I have left the pins in temporarily while building to make it easy to get the canopy on and off.

Once ready for flight, I will put the bolts in. It is not that hard to get to them with my layout.
 
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One more image.

I thought that I could add the front side of the sub-panel to help understand what I did.



Kent
 
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