Van's Air Force
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Tip up RV's: View of the rat's nest behind the panel
- Thread starter Janekom
- Start date
As requested...
About halfway through the wiring on my tip up RV-6.
http://www.vansairforce.net/construction/wiring.jpg
b,
dr
About halfway through the wiring on my tip up RV-6.
http://www.vansairforce.net/construction/wiring.jpg
b,
dr
Cover it up!
I will have to look for some pictures, but on Louise's tip-up -6, there is a nice fabric close-out that's glued to a flange on the sub-panel, and velcroed to the top of the instrument panel. When you tip up the canopy, all you see is this fabric - very nice, and also keeps the water out (Doug!) when you splash a little in there.
As for the rats nest, when you do open the close-out cover now, there really aren't any wires to see, as virtually all of them run underneath the instruments - that's just the way we laid the panel out. I'll try to take a couple pictures.
Paul
I will have to look for some pictures, but on Louise's tip-up -6, there is a nice fabric close-out that's glued to a flange on the sub-panel, and velcroed to the top of the instrument panel. When you tip up the canopy, all you see is this fabric - very nice, and also keeps the water out (Doug!) when you splash a little in there.
As for the rats nest, when you do open the close-out cover now, there really aren't any wires to see, as virtually all of them run underneath the instruments - that's just the way we laid the panel out. I'll try to take a couple pictures.
Paul
Jim P
Well Known Member
I think mine is fairly organized and I'll try and get a couple pics of the current status. Most of the switch wires run along the lower panel and transition to forward of the sub panel. http://adap.com/images/P4280090.JPG shows the wiring, without instruments/ avionics.
kentb
Well Known Member
I'm exactly here. Laying out and finalizing my panel. I have a question. Since I am building a tip up I've got those two firewall to panel ribs and they are smack dab in the way. Has anyone ever cut those off at the sub panel and replaced them with Aluminum angle stand offs? I'm thinking of doing that and can't see any real harm. I know, because I've already done it, that I can get replacement ribs and relocate the sub panel to panel portion and have about half finished the new part, but in looking at it, it seems I'd have a better panel if I braced it with stand offs at discretionary locations.
kentb
Well Known Member
Vans says no, but....
I moved mine a couple of inches. I don't think that it compromises strength.
Kent
I moved mine a couple of inches. I don't think that it compromises strength.
Kent
craigvince
Well Known Member
I asked Van's about this, since my glass panel won't fit otherwise. They said it was no problem to move them. They are non-structural, and only there to support the panel. So move them where you want them.
Ooops...sorry for the late reply...missed this.
The fuse panel was temporarily placed up top during building. It was permantly installed on the bottom area facing downward - you can read and see everything while under the panel.
b,
d
Mikey
Active Member
Covering it up
As Iron mentioned a few posts ago, I have a ballistic nylon cover that makes the area look neater and helps keep moisture from dripping onto my avionics. (Rain tends to leak onto that area through the tip-up hinge areas and water occasionally pools on top of the cover.
) The cover was made of water-proofed, ballistic-type nylon (like the material used for some backpacks) and installed by one of my previous owners. The glue and velcro were worn so Louise and Paul cleaned it up, put new velcro on it, re-glued it (with contact cement) to a flange on the sub-panel that's on the cabin side of the firewall during my recent panel overhaul. They also used (black) silicon to ensure a waterproof seal along the engine-side flange. It had previously been attached with small strips of velcro here and there, but the continuous strips all along the panel and longerons make it tighter and neater.
If you look carefully, there are two dart seams sown into the cover at the bend on each side of the panel to allow a smoother curve. Peeling back the velcro allows full access to the back of the panel. You might also note a couple of slots to allow avionics wires have been necessary in my cover.
Oh, and Louise asked me to mention that she will be doing some more work to polish off my interior and clean-up the black silicone along the back of the cover.
As Iron mentioned a few posts ago, I have a ballistic nylon cover that makes the area look neater and helps keep moisture from dripping onto my avionics. (Rain tends to leak onto that area through the tip-up hinge areas and water occasionally pools on top of the cover.
) The cover was made of water-proofed, ballistic-type nylon (like the material used for some backpacks) and installed by one of my previous owners. The glue and velcro were worn so Louise and Paul cleaned it up, put new velcro on it, re-glued it (with contact cement) to a flange on the sub-panel that's on the cabin side of the firewall during my recent panel overhaul. They also used (black) silicon to ensure a waterproof seal along the engine-side flange. It had previously been attached with small strips of velcro here and there, but the continuous strips all along the panel and longerons make it tighter and neater. If you look carefully, there are two dart seams sown into the cover at the bend on each side of the panel to allow a smoother curve. Peeling back the velcro allows full access to the back of the panel. You might also note a couple of slots to allow avionics wires have been necessary in my cover.
The cover
Showing a dart and a slot for avionics
Oh, and Louise asked me to mention that she will be doing some more work to polish off my interior and clean-up the black silicone along the back of the cover.
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