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Inst Panel Markings - How to?

Bill Wightman

Bill Wightman

Well Known Member
I'm assembling all the fun stuff back into the interior of my 8, now that the paint's done. The interior is painted with AcryGlo, flattened to a satin finish.

Finishing the interior also brings up the need to apply markings to the instrument panel, C/B panel, all the switches need to be marked, etc. I've seen some truly outstanding work here on VAF which appears to be way beyond what I could do on my Brother labeling machine.

Any better ideas?
 
I've just sent off for this stuff to do Dry Transfers.

http://www.decalprofx.com/

They have an example of it's use on aircraft instrument panels. Don't know how it works yet but it sounds good.

Jim Sharkey
RV6 - Getting there!!!
 
Oh Yea

jsharkey said:
..........They have an example of it's use on aircraft instrument panels. Don't know how it works yet but it sounds good....
Click to expand...
Hey Jim,

I used dry transfers, some purchased from a local hobby shop to do basic labeling on the panel in my 6A. They readily adhered to the textured black wrinkle paint and brushed over with clear sealer, are holding up well. Still, their use is limited to only what I could buy in the way of white letters, numbers, fonts, and sizes. I like the idea of using my imagination and tools to design EXACTLY the look I want.

Thanks for the link. I'm not easily shilled but I'm going to roll the dice on this one too! :)
 
jsharkey said:
I've just sent off for this stuff to do Dry Transfers.

http://www.decalprofx.com/

They have an example of it's use on aircraft instrument panels. Don't know how it works yet but it sounds good.

Jim Sharkey
RV6 - Getting there!!!
Click to expand...


Jim,

FYI

I did my panel with the decalprofx system and it came out great. I had to read the directions about three times before I really understood what to do and I did about three trial runs before I got the practical part right, but the final product is great.
 
I made decal sheets on the computer, with multiple sets for extras. Some decals have color and some are just black lettering. I added a border to cut around. These include everything from temp. conversion charts to passenger warning labels.

Printed these on Avery "clear" full size label sheets, and then coated with a few clear coats of rattle can spray to avoid smudging.

L.Adamson -- RV6A

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/6954/dsc05219reducedim6.jpg
 
We did our panel using Exerimental Air CAD system. It gave us a file to cut the panel, it also would help if went to someone like

http://www.engravers.net/

They displayed at Sun n Fun and had some very nice light products on show.

In the end, because we are in the UK, we found a local sign company who could screenprint directly onto the panel before we mounted it. Baked the ink on and it is superb, very professional, white on dark gray.
 
I go to the local engraving shop. They are able to print on all kinds of medium. Have a look around for one in your area, go in and look at their work. You wil be surprised at what they can do for you and not all that expensive. It will come out looking very good. My local shop even does my gas caps.
 
on my 7a i used a decal shop to lay out the decals but they looked like they were applied one letter at a time, which i could have done.

after spraying a coat of clear on the already PPG base/clear painted panel it gave me the deep embedded look i was after.

On my rocket, my father one upped me on the 7a panel. I picked out the prettiest gray paint i could find and we painted the panel.

then we gave it to a friend who owns a lazer etching shop. the panel fit in his machine and he etched it and then painted the letters.

then we shot a coat of clear on the panel. The panel is smooth and clear as can be.

Second to done.

That's another way to do it. FWIW
 
Norman CYYJ said:
I go to the local engraving shop. They are able to print on all kinds of medium. Have a look around for one in your area, go in and look at their work. You wil be surprised at what they can do for you and not all that expensive. It will come out looking very good. My local shop even does my gas caps.
Click to expand...

Norm, how many airplanes have you built? Are you the Victoria counterpart to Bryan Carr in Langley? Bryan is on his 8th or 9th airplane right now.

Vern
 
Thanks!!!

Thanks to all who've replied here. Lots of great ideas & vendor possibilities here.

But I'm still not sure what a "dry transfer" is. Is this something you transfer by applying pressure, or rubbing thru the back of a transfer media to get the markings in place? Then a clear coat over for protection?

Its too late for me to engrave, since I'm already in paint. Seems like I'm going to have to apply some sort of marking on top of the paint that's already there.

I'll get some pics up on this thread when possible....
 
I second the silkscreen option

Auburntsts said:
Another option is silkscreen. Tim Olson has a write-up on the process on his website: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/panel/20051228/index.html
Click to expand...

Too may people shy away from silkscreening, thinking it's hard to do. I followed the same process that Tim O. documented. I did the layout using MS Word, had Kinkos make me a transparancy, ($2) took it to a local guy who for $35 'burned' and mounted the screen in a frame. Bought a squeege (not sure it's really required). Used some Ace Hardware custom mixed paint (to color match), and An afternoon with my wifes help and we had the panel done.

see results here :http://deemsrv10.com/album/Panel/slides/DSC_0001.html
click fwd for 8 detailed pictures
 
lable making

I found a guy that etched burial monuments with a laser. I painted the metal and handed him a disk that he entered into his computer and all went well.
 
Brother Labeler....

I know how nice the silk screened panels look, but I found that I was still making changes to the panel labels right up to (and after) first flight - I added a switch or two, and changed functions on a couple....with the brother labeler (black letters on clear), rubbed on well with a burnishing tool, you can only see the clear background if you look close, and the lettering is crisp. And....I can make changes pretty easily!

Paul
 
Ironflight said:
I know how nice the silk screened panels look, but I found that I was still making changes to the panel labels right up to (and after) first flight - I added a switch or two, and changed functions on a couple
Click to expand...

Same with mine. Lot's of changes.

I did come across a situation , where the computer decal method worked great. I had to pull out my Cessna type master/battery switch, because I installed it upside down. I more or less destroyed it in the operation, and put a scratch on the panel between the switch and decal "labels" on each side.

I was able to make a new decal that entirely surrounded the switch, and "paint" some computerized "gray" on the lable at the same time. The gray, exactly matched the panel, and covered the scratch.

L.Adamson
 
Ironflight said:
I know how nice the silk screened panels look, but I found that I was still making changes to the panel labels right up to (and after) first flight - I added a switch or two, and changed functions on a couple....with the brother labeler (black letters on clear), rubbed on well with a burnishing tool, you can only see the clear background if you look close, and the lettering is crisp. And....I can make changes pretty easily!

Paul
Click to expand...



Did that with my cherokee 6 a few years ago......after a year the tape lifted slightly and you could see the difference......
 
The labels am using right now are made of 1/16 thick plastic. The lettering is on the back side, this makes it nice in that it will never look worn. Also since the plastic is black and the letters clear I have painted the back side the colour that I want the words to show up. Most of the letters are painted white and red for those that you think are warnings. The labels for the switches are large enough to have holes to fit over them. Looks real good.
 
Dry transfer process

Bill Wightman said:
Thanks to all who've replied here. Lots of great ideas & vendor possibilities here.

But I'm still not sure what a "dry transfer" is. Is this something you transfer by applying pressure, or rubbing thru the back of a transfer media to get the markings in place? Then a clear coat over for protection?

Its too late for me to engrave, since I'm already in paint. Seems like I'm going to have to apply some sort of marking on top of the paint that's already there.

I'll get some pics up on this thread when possible....
Click to expand...

Bill,

With normal decals you print an image on special decal paper, then you soak the decal in water and slide the image onto the final surface. You've probably done this building models. The problem is that there is a carrier holding the image, and you can usually see the carrier, the same as a label printed on clear labels. I have experimented with normal decals, and you can get pretty good results, but there's always that backing that shows up.

The DecalPro process is a little more involved, but yields outstanding results, once you get the process down. Basically, you print you image on special paper using a laser printer. Then you fuse colored foil to the image using colored foils and a laminator. The paper backing is removed by soaking in water (like the normal decals), which leaves you with a clear carrier that contains the image to transfer (back of image is exposed). Then you spray a light coat of glue onto the back of the image. Finally, you press the image onto the final surface.

I know this seems like a lot of work, but it produces excellent results, and it is still quite a bit easier than silkscreening.

Some of my experiments with this process can be seen at:

http://www.trv7.com/

Click on "Extra Credit" in the main menu, then click on "Instrument Panel Labels" on the next page.

Also, see Bill Repucci's website at:

http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html

Another builder did a pretty good job of documenting several processes that he tried, before using Decal Pro. See

http://www.4sierratango.com/


Cheers,
Tracy.
 
I have reviewed the different options and just gotten a local T-shirt shop to make me a silkscreen frame. I will let you guys know how it turns out. I am very interested in seeing a professional appearance.

Ben
 
Hi all,

I just purchased the dry transfer system mentioned above...trying to save a little time here - do any of you by chance still have your lettering/marking files available to share? Would really appreciate any help. Please PM and I'll send email.

Thx in advance!
 
I've got some ideas for TBII's panel and thought I'd do a search for lettering options. I like the DecalPro idea alot. Has anyone had to remove a decal and re-letter it, such as for adding or changing a switch or breaker, adding a warning light, etc? If you don't clearcoat over the decals, how durable are they?

I'm asking because I like to stay flexible... committing to a brand new panel design before flying it is scary! :eek:
 
Brother Label Maker... Again

I moved things around too, Then made a second panel after I figured out what I really wanted! If you print the labels with a border, or "boxed" you can trim to the edge of the box before putting them on. That reduces some of the 'sticker effect'. Also, it helped using easy release painters tape to guide alignment.
 
Another Brother

They make a heavy duty clear tape for the Brother label maker. It really sticks. My plane is parked on the ramp in Baton Rouge. After two years the labels are still holding tight. I've made constant panel changes which are no problem. John
 
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Could always find someone with a vinyl cutter and do them out of vinyl. I'll be redoing our panel soon, hopefully.
 
I also used the Brother label maker. There is a silver-gray tape that matches my cabin color. The other little secret is the Brother labeling software. More fonts, sizes and styles.
 
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