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Pneumatic Squeezers.....Alligator or "C"?

Rick6a

Rick6a

Well Known Member
If driven by a limited budget, I can understand why a one-time builder would select a "C" type pneumatic squeezer with interchangeable yoke capability over the alligator type. The "C" type squeezer is readily available from multiple sources and tends to get better press than the alligator type simply because more people have and use them. I happen to own both types of squeezers and much prefer the alligator. If we are talking about both squeezers having the same throat depth or reach.....the alligator squeezer will reach almost every riveting situation the "C" type can and then go on to reach rivets impossible to access with the "C" type. You doubt? Lets say you need to rivet an electrical or hydraulic clip to an existing cockpit sidewall or floor stiffener. In many if not most cases, this would be asking for the impossible using a "C" type squeezer but child's play for the alligator. Dimpling operations are far more ergonomically comfortable and efficient using the alligator too, similiar to holding a pair of scissors. Certainly, there are a relative few situations in which dimpling or setting a rivet in existing structure is easier to accomplish with a "C" type. ...but then the cheaper hand squeezer comes into its own but overall, the alligator squeezer offers significantly greater pneumatic utility than the ubiquitous "C".
alligator70ry0.jpg

Rick Galati "RV-6A Darla
 
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For those not very experienced in riveting, is one better than the other for the novice?
 
dicel87 said:
For those not very experienced in riveting, is one better than the other for the novice?
Click to expand...
Actually, NOVICE status disappears quite quickly. There are a LOT of rivets in one of these things.

-mike
 
I have one of each and use the C riveter the most. I just find it easier to use. I have the alligator set up with dimple dies and use two air hoses, which is nice for some applications.
The alligator squeezer was the best way to get at nut plates on the angles when I was installing removeable floors in my RV8 and on the stringers.
If you are going to buy only one type, I would try to get someone to let you try theirs first so you get get a feel for how they both work before you decide. As someone noted earlier, there are a lot more yokes available for the C type, which is a BIG plus.
 
How do you ensure that the dies or rivet sets are parallel / flush when using the alligator type? It seems that as they open and close the face of the rivet set or die would be off - does this cause problems? Probably less so when riveting, but seems like it could be a problem when dimpling...

Thomas
-8 wings
 
Go for the C-frame one

TShort said:
How do you ensure that the dies or rivet sets are parallel / flush when using the alligator type? It seems that as they open and close the face of the rivet set or die would be off - does this cause problems? Probably less so when riveting, but seems like it could be a problem when dimpling...

Thomas
-8 wings
Click to expand...

I tried both.. got an old alligator one a long time ago....
If you think about it, the two dies will only be parallel at a single position in the arc made as the jaws come together. This seemed to let the squeezer get "crooked" when setting rivets of certain lengths.

Go for the C-frame one, the dies are always parallel... :)

gil in Tucson - user of a C-frame squeezer
 
The way I use the alligator squeezer is to hold the rigid jaw up against the rivet and let the moving jaw come down to create the shop head.
In dimpling, put the male die on the rigid jaw and hold that in the hole to be dimpled. The let the moving jaw come down on the piece.
In using both types, it is best to make sure you hold at least one of the dies with pressure against the piece. I always prefer pressing the piston, on the C squeezer against the manufactured rivet head, if possible, applying pressure against the rivet during the squeeze.
Using the alligator, the opposite works better for me. (Holding the stationary jaw against the piece.)
Good luck.
 
I'm thinking of buying a pneumatic rivet squeezer but have never used one. The technique I use with the hand squeezer is I insert the rivet into the hole. I then "grab" it with the squeezer, lean on the manufactured head to ensure it's flush on the skin and then I squeeze it. With the pneumatic, is this method possible or is it that when you squeeze the trigger the gun cycles and that's it?
 
sf3543 said:
I have one of each and use the C riveter the most. I just find it easier to use. I have the alligator set up with dimple dies and use two air hoses, which is nice for some applications.
The alligator squeezer was the best way to get at nut plates on the angles when I was installing removeable floors in my RV8 and on the stringers.
If you are going to buy only one type, I would try to get someone to let you try theirs first so you get get a feel for how they both work before you decide. As someone noted earlier, there are a lot more yokes available for the C type, which is a BIG plus.
Click to expand...

You can use cherry nut plate pull rivets. alot easier
 
jlfernan, you can throttle the pneumatic trigger very nicely to slowly extend the piston. It does not do a cycle and doesn't go into an automode that can't be backed out of. Just releasing the trigger returns the piston. You can either pull the mfg. head in with the tip of the yoke or push it in with the piston, or make the shop head with either the piston or yoke, depending how you set it up or how access dictates how to approach the task.

For riveting or dimpling, the pneumatic squeezer is a real time and hand saver. I do not own a hand squeezer and never used one in building my 7A. I recommend an adjustable set holder (Avery) along with a longeron yoke, 1" and 4" no hole yokes, and a 2-1/2" or 3" standard yoke. Get good spring back dies, along with the usual flush and cupped sets, and the quick change pins.

Roberta
 
Well I did it! I bit the bullet and bought a pneumatic squeezer from Cleaveland and let me tell you, it's SWEEET! I'm just starting and haven't done that much squeezing of rivets but I can already tell this thing is going to save me a ton of time. If anyone is wavering on whether or not to buy one, do it. Trust me, you won't regret it.
 
jlfernan said:
Well I did it! I bit the bullet and bought a pneumatic squeezer from Cleaveland and let me tell you, it's SWEEET! I'm just starting and haven't done that much squeezing of rivets but I can already tell this thing is going to save me a ton of time. If anyone is wavering on whether or not to buy one, do it. Trust me, you won't regret it.
Click to expand...
It is highly probable that squeezer will quickly become a favored tool. You will be surprised just how many dimples you can generate with it too. Though unlikely, if you are willing to part with it once the project is completed, you can resell that puppy in a New York minute! Have fun.

Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
 
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