Tip: Co-pilot stick wiring

Here's my solution to the problem of having a "wired" stick that is REMOVABLE.

I thought about this WAY too long, but I'm excited about the results.
I just didn't see how there was going to be enough room for external wiring and connector.

I used DB9 connectors that are trimmed down to fit inside the tubes and used epoxy (West Systems) to "pot" them in.

You have to solder the two halves of each DB9 connector together, because when you trim them down you cut off the part that holds it together! The soldering is the easy part.

I had to install an allen screw (6-32) and make a slot in the reciever so the DB9's would line up when slid together.

I saw where "kevinh" had done this with a round headphone plug. But I needed 9 wires as I have a CH grip on both sides.

The photo's below show what I've done. I haven't cleaned them up yet. They will look better when I'm finished.
The powder coat line makes it look like it's not all the way in but it is!

Nicely done, Mark. Great idea. I knew that one of these days I'd have to tackle the "removable R stick with PTT" issue.

Great idea Mark. May I suggest a safety idea?
How about using a camloc clamp ala mount bike seat post
clamp in order to prevent inadvertant control column disconnects? Unfortunately, although not common, it does happen.
Thanks for the great idea, & fly safely and long.

Cover and bolt

Great solution to a common problem. I recommend two things.

As mentioned before, Vans strongly recommends a bolt to prevent the stick from coming out inadvertantly. Maybe this can be accomplished by attaching an external boss or in internal guide tube so as not to pinch the internal wires.

2nd, You may want to find a tight fitting rubber cap to cover the lower tube when the stick is removed so foreign objects such as food doesn't fall in a get subsequently squished into the D-sub. that would be a shame. Good job!

Bevan

Thoughts

Joel,
Thanks for the suggestion to clamp the stick in. I don't believe I have enough of slot cut into the receiver section for a clamp like you suggest to be effective. And I'd be reluctant to make the slot longer. But it could be done and would work I'm sure. I've considered a spring clip that would snap over the head of the allen screw when the stick is all the way down. That would be cool.

Bevan,
Yes, I had thought about a nice plug for the hole when the stick is out.
I can see my grandson dropping a milk dud down in there!

I wish you guys could see what a nice fit the stick is. I wonder if they are all that good from Van's. It takes a firm push to get it in and likewise a firm pull to get it out. And it's smooth, like it's polished.

And now with the epoxy plugging the tubes it has a suction holding it also.
When it comes apart it makes a sound like a boot being pulled out of some Mississippi gumbo. (sticky mud to you yankees). I could drill a small air hole but I think the suction is an advantage.

I've noticed even with the stick out the receiver section sticks up about an inch above the floor pans. I was thinking a metal cover should be made with a dome shape that would screw down over it, in case you wanted to haul some heavy freight (Camping supplies, beer, etc) and not be worried about it interfering with the controls.

Has anyone done this?

Thanks,
Mark

Mark, your idea for the spring clip sounds good. Looks like you have a
good handle on it.

How would you service those connectors?

Replace them!

Kahuna said:

How would you service those connectors?

Click to expand...

Hi Kahuna,

Servicing? When I build something it stays built

Seriously though, you would have to get a big drill bit and go after them!
Chew them all up until you can get them out to replace them. it would take a few hours to replace them for sure.

Or you could just buy another stick and socket/weldment and start over.

I would think the MTBF would be very high, unless the aforementioned milk dud accident happens.

It's just the co-pilots stick after all.

Mark

Another related approach

I usually fly with no PAX stick because my wife is a non-pilot. So I only need right seat transmit once in a while and have no other wires in the stick(s). I did have snap in connectors and extra wire but it was a PITA. I also wanted the passenger to have transmit ability even without the stick because I designed the airplane and panel so that an emergency landing could be made with no stick (if the emergency was me, not the aircraft). Thus the answer was to put a little red button next to the SL-30 radio for transmit from either seat. It's the third switch; both mikes are thus activated. I only offer this for the possibility that someone else may want to use it as a supplement, not as an argument about the excellent work shown above.

EXCELLENT solution Mark!!! I'm gonna do it, thanks very much!

Your first post here has a pic that's not linking... maybe its the pic of the receiving plug. I'd like to see that.

Bill Wightman said:

EXCELLENT solution Mark!!! I'm gonna do it, thanks very much!

Your first post here has a pic that's not linking... maybe its the pic of the receiving plug. I'd like to see that.

Click to expand...

Thanks Bill.
I got the photo working.

Mark

Stick Hold-down screw

Mark,
Thanks for the idea; I'd been toying with that but not sure how to align the pins and sockets without wear. You've solved that and more.

Can you add some detail how you positioned the plugs while you epoxied them in place? That would be most helpful.

For those wanting a positive way to hold the stick in place, there is enough room alongside the plug to drill and tap a hole for a short screw, just protruding through the stick, but not touching the plug. The outer hole (socket) doesn't need to be tapped. The fairly thin stick will have plenty of threads to hold the screw since the only force will be in shear.

Harold

Harold Lanfear said:

Mark,
Thanks for the idea; I'd been toying with that but not sure how to align the pins and sockets without wear. You've solved that and more.

Can you add some detail how you positioned the plugs while you epoxied them in place? That would be most helpful.

snip

Harold

Click to expand...

Harold,
I wish I had taken more photos during the fitting.
I installed the connector on the stick side first. I used a mating DB9 with the "ears" still on it to but up against the end of the tube. This positioned the connector inside just flush. I "packed" some foam rubber about 1" from the connector inside the tube through a hole that I had originally made to run the wires out the side. This was to keep the epoxy from running out. You can't see this hole in the photos. I turned it connector up and carefully poured "dobbed" the epoxy down and around the connector.

The next day after the stick connector was in place I placed the connector for the reciever with wiring onto the stick. I used ivory soap as a mold release. Smearing it in the places I didn't want the epoxy to stick. I carefully slid this assembly into position into the reciever and poured about an inch worth of epoxy inside. I had smeared some RTV silicone around the wires where they entered the backside of the connector so the epoxy wouldn't run inside the connector.

I hope this description of the process helps. But I'm sure there are many ways to end up with the same result.

Mark