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Best $2.99 I have spent (Semi-Automatic Rivet Removal Tool) must read!

Pmerems

Pmerems

Well Known Member
Advertiser
If you ever tried to punch out a bad rivet on your RV you typically need a helper or 3 hands. One to hold the punch, one to hold the hammer and one to hold a backup block on the shop side of the rivet.

Click on the link to learn more about the SARRT (Semi-Automatic Rivet Removal Tool). A must have in your tool collection.

http://www.experimentalaero.com/SARRT.htm
 
great idea

ive used one of thee so much (for a punch) the brass on the screw on portion is starting to split.:( guess i'll need to get a couple more, one to modify and one to use as is.. man i could have used this 4 years ago.
 
Hilarious! That same tool has been sold to woodworkers for many years as a spring-loaded nail set. I bought one in the late 80's when trimming out a house addition with cherry. It worked great. Have used it many times in the last two years as a rivet remover ... and thought I was the only guy that had one! :eek:
 
Reposting for those who haven't seen this tool idea

Gents,

Maybe it was the timing of the post but not many folks viewed it. So I am re-posting it again.
 
SARRT

I did this today and it worked great. My only modification to the design presented would be to extend the 0.090 diameter for an additional distance to prevent the taper from impacting the rivet hole. My initial attempt was impacting the rivet hole edge starting a countersink. I will try to measure the stroke and grind slightly longer.

By the way, now I need four of these little things. One for the original auto center punch. One ground down to 3/32 dia., and one ground down to 1/8 dia., these are great rivet hole transfer tools. the forth is the new SARRT.

Four tools for $ 12 , you can't beat that.
 
I use the Avery "PAINLESS CABLE TIE SAFETY CUTTER" SKU 56662. When you punch a rivet where the shop head is against thinner skin than the factory head, you have to support the thin skin or it may bend the thin skin. With these pliers, you can get a really good grip on the shop head and pull it out by twisting against the skin, supporting it to prevent bending. The only time it doesn't work well is if you have overdriven the rivet and don't have much of a shop head to grip.

One other thing: I find that in spite of my best efforts, when drilling 470 rivets, I often don't drill in the center. I start there in that little dimple, but the bit usually goes astray. I found that the easiest way to remove these rivet heads after misdrilling is to take a screwdriver and use it like a chisel against the side of the rivet head and gently tap it with a small hammer. Works every time! Just be careful that you don't tap too hard and have the screwdriver fly off & hit something you don't want it to hit.

Richard Scott
RV-9A Fuselage
 
Rivet Removal

I posted this years ago but thought it still might help a few new builders.
 
Excellent, I have been using my Starrett for this purpose, because the end is smaller that the HF one. I just had not generated enough pain to think about this modification. Thanks!

One might think all these tools are the same, but the Starrett is a much more refined tool, the force required to snap is less and the tip more precise. When I bought it in 1977, it was about $10. Let's see, at 10x inflation . . . . maybe more should have been invested there.
 
I have been using one of these since an A&P told me that is the way to punch out a rivet. But why grind off the tip? I have been using it with the sharp tip intact. I use it first to put a center punch in the rivet head, then drill off the rivet head then punch away.

Just curious.

Thanks
ken
 
Late viewer to this thread, but to answer the question about 'why grind the tip':

If you leave a point on a punch & try to drive out the shaft of a rivet (or anything else that's softer than the punch), the taper & point will try to flare the shaft, tightening it in the hole. Not what you want if you're trying to remove the shaft from the hole.

Charlie
 
OK--I get that. So the answer is that you need two of them. One with a sharp point to use it for its intended use and one with a dull point to get out the rivets.
 
rivet punch

I made one too! Awesome tip. It works great.
I put the tip in my drill and ran it while holding it against a grinding wheel.
Perfect .090".
Thanks for the tip! (Pun intended) :D
 
Pmerems said:
If you ever tried to punch out a bad rivet on your RV you typically need a helper or 3 hands. One to hold the punch, one to hold the hammer and one to hold a backup block on the shop side of the rivet.

Click on the link to learn more about the SARRT (Semi-Automatic Rivet Removal Tool). A must have in your tool collection.

http://www.experimentalaero.com/SARRT.htm
Click to expand...

Here's a helpful drawing from my 2003 construction tips for my 9a. I have also found that a small flush cutter is useful to grab the shop head and gently pry it off.

rivet_removal.jpg
 
Another Mod To the Rivie Punch

We add a knob to the "top" of the punch to ease the pressure on your hand and make it easy to hold, position, and "actuate" with your fingers.

We simply find a solid core golf ball and bore a hole that fits over the end of the punch. Easy, cheap and reversible.

Give it a try, I think that you will like the result.
 
Last edited:
Excellent idea. I have just modified my spring punch.

I have previously used a cheap rivet gun that had the power of a 1X, it was made for sculpturing and came with some chisel ends. It had so little power it could not even rivet a 3/32 rivet. So I modified the snaps the same way as for spring centrepunch, and I use it for gently punching out rivets now.

Personally I drill centre of rivets with 3/32 or 1/8 drills as applicable, I never use the #40 or#30 clearance drills and this avoids enlarging the hole.

Another very handy tool I found recently was a pair of pliers that have a set of teeth and curved mouth on the very end that is perfect for grabbing the end of rivet tails and pulling or twisting them out. It has become my second most favorite pliers after my duckbills. It is made by FUJIYA model number SP26-175.
 
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