Van's Air Force
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rudder trim tab
- Thread starter jacksel
- Start date
I had the same thing in my RV6, but I didn't want a trim tab on the rudder.
Finally, I attached a spring from the right rudder pedal to the lower gusset on the firewall. It took a couple of times to get the correct tension on the spring, but in the end I got a perfectly centered ball in cruise flight. I think I got the spring from Home Depot and ended up cutting it shorter to add some tension. There are no problems with interference...basically, it is the same idea as VAN's aileron trim. Of course it only gives right rudder pressure, but I never needed to give left rudder, anyway.
If you decide to try this, don't forget to put a piece of wood between the gusset and skin when drilling the hole for the speing end, or else you might get a hole through the skin, too. I used a #30 drill for this hole.
On the rudder end, I extended the metal strap, that attaches the rudder cable to the pedal, forward a bit. and drilled a hole in that for the spring to attach to.
Worked great...cost was less than $2.00...and no trim tab on the rudder!
Finally, I attached a spring from the right rudder pedal to the lower gusset on the firewall. It took a couple of times to get the correct tension on the spring, but in the end I got a perfectly centered ball in cruise flight. I think I got the spring from Home Depot and ended up cutting it shorter to add some tension. There are no problems with interference...basically, it is the same idea as VAN's aileron trim. Of course it only gives right rudder pressure, but I never needed to give left rudder, anyway.
If you decide to try this, don't forget to put a piece of wood between the gusset and skin when drilling the hole for the speing end, or else you might get a hole through the skin, too. I used a #30 drill for this hole.
On the rudder end, I extended the metal strap, that attaches the rudder cable to the pedal, forward a bit. and drilled a hole in that for the spring to attach to.
Worked great...cost was less than $2.00...and no trim tab on the rudder!
Rick6a
Well Known Member
Here's another option. I recently installed this simple wedge from the experimental folks found at the link below. Super fast installation with double sided carpet tape. Can be bonded on with epoxy. I cut 1/8" length off it before each flight until I was happy with the performance. Works great, is unobtrusive, and the price is right.jacksel said:
http://www.averytools.com/p-625-rudder-trim-tab.aspx
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
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Capflyer
Well Known Member
I have one of these wedges and it works at lower altitudes fairly well but at higher altitudes above 6000' (I can't figure out why) it is not enough. Mine requires left rudder. Has anyone that has used the wedge played with where on the rudder (up or down) placement has made a difference? I am also toying with some type of electronic trim tab similar to what I saw a -10 builder put in his rudder.
L.Adamson
Well Known Member
My 6A requires right rudder, and I duct taped a wood wedge that I cut at the spare of the moment. I went higher on the rudder, in case there is elevator/fuse inteference to the airflow.
I'm usually at 7500- 9500' msl, and it's working well at cruise speeds. I will replace it with an actual bent tab. My plane is painted in 40's colors, and a tab looks just fine.........IMO.
A 6A in the hangar next door, has a small tab placed just above the lower fiberglass fairing/light. It's worked fine for the last 12 years.
We both have the shorter "6" vertical stab & rudders.
L.Adamson
I also needed a little right rudder at cruise power. For now I'm dialing in a piece of balsa R/C aileron stock (1 1/4" wide wedge about 3/8" thick). I started with a 7" length and like Rick, trim it down a little after a few flights. It's less than 5" long now and I still need to trim it more. I have it applied to the rudder with aluminum tape which makes it easy to remove for trimming as well as experimenting with the best location. Currently I have it placed just slightly higher than Rick has his. I have entertained installing a positionable spring bias similar to the aileron system, but I don't think it will be necessary.
Mike, the reason that your fixed trim tab works down low and not up at higher altitudes is becasue your indicated airspeed is lower as you climb. Trim tabs will only be correct for one indicated airspeed and configuration. So, you should adjust your fixed trim tab at the altitudes for which you do most of your flying.
This is one of the resons why some of us have adjustable trim tabs.
Vic
This is one of the resons why some of us have adjustable trim tabs.
Vic
Rick6a
Well Known Member
George,Rick,
I have a MAC but don't think that is the problem. When I click on the link it goes to a sex site.
You are right. The link is no longer valid. I wonder how that happened.
Thankfully, the very same wedge is now available at Avery's. To avoid any further and needless confusion, I'll amend the (3 year old) post containing the bad link. http://www.averytools.com/pc-118-112-rudder-trim-tab.aspx
BTW, That wedge has held for over three years now using double sided carpet tape. For purely cosmetic reasons, I did fair in the leading edge of the wedge with proseal to produce a slightly smoother transition between it and the rudder before I painted over it.
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pierre smith
Well Known Member
HardKnox has a kit.....
....that mounts a small wheel horizontally under the dash with a small diameter cable that runs to two arms bolted to the center of the rudder tubes up front. The little cable attaches to two light springs and can either give you right or left rudder trim.
"Hard Knox" has it on his -6A and hopefully he'll chime in.
Regards,
....that mounts a small wheel horizontally under the dash with a small diameter cable that runs to two arms bolted to the center of the rudder tubes up front. The little cable attaches to two light springs and can either give you right or left rudder trim.
"Hard Knox" has it on his -6A and hopefully he'll chime in.
Regards,
49clipper
I tried that kit with the knob mounted under the panel (on the sub-panel) for rudder trim and it did absolutely nothing. Looked like a great idea, with the two arms mounted on the rudder bar and the piano wire and springs. Even went to Home Depot and bought really tough springs with no help. Finally just added the wood wedge per Vans and it solved the problem. I think I will evdentually make a standard bent tab type and use that.
I tried that kit with the knob mounted under the panel (on the sub-panel) for rudder trim and it did absolutely nothing. Looked like a great idea, with the two arms mounted on the rudder bar and the piano wire and springs. Even went to Home Depot and bought really tough springs with no help. Finally just added the wood wedge per Vans and it solved the problem. I think I will evdentually make a standard bent tab type and use that.
L.Adamson
Well Known Member
Don't know what plane you have, but that shorter rudder on my 6A took a good bit of force on the pedal to get the ball centered. I can see where springs might have a problem; since the force is quite a bit more than the ailerons.
But I too, went with a wood wedge about 4.5" long and duct taped on. It worked great for several months until I replaced it with a tab that I bent on a sheet metal brake.
Note: Brake not required, but I own a sheetmetal shop..
L.Adamson --- RV6A
