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Canopy Repair

dweyant

Well Known Member
All,

One of our RV-12's had an incident (non motion) that has destroyed the canopy.

It will most likely be an insurance claim. Does anyone have any recommendations for someone that would be willing to do the repairs?

Also, the plane is not local to me. What are the chances that a replacement canopy could be built using another RV-12 as a template and have it fit?

Thanks,

-Dan
 
If the frame is good, strip it all off and start over. The KAI will guide you thru the entire process and includes fiberglassing templates. Order replacement parts for a complete rebuild.
 
All,



Also, the plane is not local to me. What are the chances that a replacement canopy could be built using another RV-12 as a template and have it fit?


-Dan

I would not attempt this if you really want a good fit and seal.
 
If the frame is good, strip it all off and start over. The KAI will guide you thru the entire process and includes fiberglassing templates. Order replacement parts for a complete rebuild.
As I recall, if you look at the cost of buying and shipping the canopy, adding the frame in the same crate is not a big shock. If you're already shelling out for the canopy... starting with a new frame could save a lot of work. Plus you won't have to try to line up the holes perfectly. Or you could just Sikaflex the canopy on and forget the screws.

We had a damaged canopy and the frame was broken at a corner weld. Rather than stripping down the frame and getting the frame TIG welded, I decided to just replace the whole thing and save the teardown and cleanup work.
 
I think the frame is rather pricey .... May depend on what the insurance will actually cover
 
Another thing to consider, my frame was a long ways from a fit to the fuselage, took LOTS of bending and forming to match the rest of the plane. Using the old frame, especially if not damaged, might be a better choice.
 
My frame fit perfectly just needing a nylon spacer washer added to each side at the front pivot. I guess they vary. The 12 frame was unlike the 7 and 9 slider frames that needed lots of work to get just good enough on my other builds.
 
My frame was a good fit. The fiber glass may be intimidating to a beginner, but after you realize you can always sand it down and start over you?ll see it is probably one of the most forgiving processes in building the kit. A little 5 minute epoxy will put the foam back together if you break it or make a mistake cutting it. The important thing to remember is that the foam is just a contour mold that the fiberglass lays on top of. God bless micro balloons and epoxy slurry for hiding cosmetic glitches!😝
 
As I recall, if you look at the cost of buying and shipping the canopy, adding the frame in the same crate is not a big shock. If you're already shelling out for the canopy... starting with a new frame could save a lot of work. Plus you won't have to try to line up the holes perfectly. Or you could just Sikaflex the canopy on and forget the screws.

We had a damaged canopy and the frame was broken at a corner weld. Rather than stripping down the frame and getting the frame TIG welded, I decided to just replace the whole thing and save the teardown and cleanup work.

Dale, if the day comes for me to replace canopy or rear glass, please describe how sikaflex negates the need for screws? Thanks Doug
 
Dale, if the day comes for me to replace canopy or rear glass, please describe how sikaflex negates the need for screws? Thanks Doug
We've already done the rear window with Sikaflex. We'll be doing the canopy this Spring when it warms up enough to do the fiberglass work, I hope. I'll post pics. We've got the frame and canopy ready go, just need the time to finish it.
 
We've already done the rear window with Sikaflex. We'll be doing the canopy this Spring when it warms up enough to do the fiberglass work, I hope. I'll post pics. We've got the frame and canopy ready go, just need the time to finish it.

Sweet,

Dale,
My non-builder sensing is; there are two types of 12 owners, those that have had to replace glass and those that will have to!

Any info on easier technique and alternate acceptable materials is useful to me.

Thanks!
Doug in IL
 
Sweet,

Dale,
My non-builder sensing is; there are two types of 12 owners, those that have had to replace glass and those that will have to!

Any info on easier technique and alternate acceptable materials is useful to me.

Thanks!
Doug in IL

As you (as a non builder) gain knowledge, I think you will find that bonding a canopy on with Sika is not an easier technique, nor does it make the canopy easier to replace if it should ever have to be (which based on 10,000 plus RV's built and flying over a period of 40 + years, needing to do a replacement is actually a pretty low probability).
 
Scott is right in that you probably won't ever need to replace the canopy or rear window.

When I bought this one, the rear windows was the original polycarbonate. It was badly crazed and cracked from contact with MOGAS, and looked like ****. It wasn't getting any better with time. During the CI the year before last, we pulled the rear window and replaced it with the new acrylic window, using Sika instead of screws. Looks great, wasn't a big challenge to do. You just have to figure out how to hold the window in place from inside while the adhesive cures. An air mattress and exercise ball did the trick. We're REALLY happy with how well it turned out.

The bottom right corner of the canopy was also broken from a wind incident before I bought it. A good sized chunk of acrylic was broken out, and there were a couple of cracks. Nothing that couldn't be fixed if you don't mind the repairs showing, but then we discovered that the weld was broken, too. That was the tipping point. I put in a temporary fix -- structurally OK, but not too pretty. I have a new frame and canopy here. I don't know that the Sikaflex will be any more or less difficult than the screws and rivets... more taping and all, but zero drilling. Everything sits perfectly in place, so we won't need to go through some of the clamping gyrations I've seen others with RV-7s and 8s. I am thinking about maybe using fiberglass instead of aluminum for the side skirts... haven't decided yet.

Like I said, I'll post the process and results here once we get around to finishing it. I will say this: I was a little leery of the Sikaflex, but after seeing it in its final state -- no way that canopy will ever work loose. It's some pretty tough stuff.
 
With regard to the back window I would agree that the newer molded one will probably last for the life of the plane, but the older flat lexan windows had a fair amount of residual stress due to conforming to the curve of the frame and seem to craze easily. My original one was crazed within a year. So far I have three years on the new molded rear window and it still looks factory new.
 
Rear Window

My airplane was certified in 2013. I did not build it. But it is on the second rear window, the original kind, and this one is crazed badly. I put a decal over it to try to cover it up but it is still visible. I am going to live with it for a while and then put the new style in.
 
My airplane was certified in 2013. I did not build it. But it is on the second rear window, the original kind, and this one is crazed badly. I put a decal over it to try to cover it up but it is still visible. I am going to live with it for a while and then put the new style in.

What about just paint it from the inside?
 
Canopy

The builder put a metal piece over the rear window after is crazed the first time. He did it before he had the aircraft painted and it looked pretty good. But when he decided to sell it, he replaced the rear window. I had it a few months when it crazed again.
 
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