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  #1  
Old 05-20-2005, 06:37 AM
RudiGreyling's Avatar
RudiGreyling RudiGreyling is offline
 
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Location: South Africa, Johannesburg
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Default Improved Work Table...

Hi Guys,

While waiting for my kit to arrive, I had to build a work table or 2.
I used the standard EAA Chapter 1000 Work Table (www Link) as a guideline, and improved on it for my use.

I required 2 storage surfaces and it had to be lighter, bigger and simpler to constuct than the standard EAA table.

In addition my table needs to be 'mobile', since I need to roll it away at night, next to the wall. This way when I need it I can roll it into the center of the garage have access to all 4 sides, and at night just roll it out of the way again.

Lastly the table top had to have a +/-2" overhang on the side all the way around, in order to be able to clamp things down to the table using ordinary G-clamps.

I also had to draw and plan it, since we use metric dimensions on this side of the world, and the standard wood sizes here is not the same as in the USA.

Anycase, since I had to do all that planning and drawing, I thought it good to post for you guys.

I made 2, one for a nice flat surface and another for drilling into.




Here is the bigger Plan and dimensions

Most of the beams are (77x44mm or 3" x 1 3/4")
Just be sure to use woodglue in addition to 2 screws at each wood joint, since the glue gives it most of the strength, and the screws ensure it does not start tearing appart.

Use it..abuse it..and improve on my ideas! Enjoy!!!

Kind Regards
Rudi
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Last edited by RudiGreyling : 01-10-2007 at 02:11 AM.
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  #2  
Old 05-22-2005, 04:46 AM
TerryPancake TerryPancake is offline
 
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Default

Hoegaan dit Boetie? Those tables look great!!!You could eat off of them.Seeeet... Have you received your kit? Your shop looks great too!!
Take care my friend.
Come see us.
Tw
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  #3  
Old 05-22-2005, 05:54 AM
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Captain_John Captain_John is offline
 
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Location: KPYM
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Default

Hoe is dit my broer!



Those shiny table tops are going to look great with primer on them! I bet you can't wait to mess them up!!!

Nice work! I like the castering wheels!

Keep us posted, Rudi!

CJ
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  #4  
Old 05-23-2005, 12:23 AM
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RudiGreyling RudiGreyling is offline
 
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Wink

TerryPancake & Captain_John, thanx guys...

The shiny one is not going to see any primer it's my 'finishing' table.
But the other one, the standard uncoated one is going to see a lot abuse...drilling, painting, deburing etc...

All the Kits arrived this weekend , I will post in another forum when I have organised my thoughts and photos.
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  #5  
Old 05-23-2005, 02:11 PM
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RV7Factory RV7Factory is offline
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Location: Livermore, CA
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Rudi,

Nice table!

I just finished my table(s), and it sounds like you and I were thinking along the same lines... larger than the EAA1000 tables (mine is 8'x3'), with 2" overhang, and moveable.

Here is a shot of mine. The main differences being that I chose to have the legs further towards the ends to maximize storage space underneath, and I included a middle leg because of the span. I think I am going to add a second shelf on half of my table this weekend.



Cheers,
Brad
RV-7 - N609BC
Tail Kit Arrived Last Week
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  #6  
Old 05-24-2005, 12:25 AM
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RudiGreyling RudiGreyling is offline
 
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Quote:
RV7Factory: Rudi, Nice table!
I just finished my table(s), and it sounds like you and I were thinking along the same lines... larger than the EAA1000 tables (mine is 8'x3'), with 2" overhang, and moveable.
Brad, I like your ideas as well, great minds think alike!

I limited my width of the table to match my existing build-in cupboards/top and to match easily available width of the shiny wooden tops.

I also limited my bottom storage space to match wood sheet sizes, and to get maximum width without adding a centre pillar, because I wanted to keep the weight down and be able to store long things on the bottom shelves without an obstructing centre pillar.

I think this thread is a great start for guys thinking of build their own table to use the EAA1000, your and my ideas and come up with something that suit their needs to a T.
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  #7  
Old 05-24-2005, 09:19 AM
Derrell Derrell is offline
 
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I had 2 solid core 3-0 (36") doors that made excellent tops. One thing I did was to use 2 locking castors to keep the table stationary.

Derrell
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  #8  
Old 05-24-2005, 11:19 PM
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RudiGreyling RudiGreyling is offline
 
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Quote:
Derrell: I had 2 solid core 3-0 (36") doors that made excellent tops. One thing I did was to use 2 locking castors to keep the table stationary.
Ditto...Derrell, I forgot to mention it, I also used castors wheels with a break/lock on them, this ensures the table does not run-away...
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  #9  
Old 05-25-2005, 07:24 AM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Default Nice work

Now to give your plane that attention to detail!

I made mine with a particle board top because that stuff holds cleco’s better, IMHO.

I also rabbited the 2x4 edge rails so I can just lay the 4x8 sheet in there w/o attaching it. That was done to make the replacement easier, which I now need to do since there are holes all over my table.

In addition, I added 2x4 corner braces for stability. I now have a really nice 4x8 raised dance floor when I finish the -9. You can see the bracing in this picture.
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  #10  
Old 05-26-2005, 12:07 PM
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RudiGreyling RudiGreyling is offline
 
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Quote:
N941WR:.... I also rabbited the 2x4 edge rails so I can just lay the 4x8 sheet in there w/o attaching it. That was done to make the replacement easier, which I now need to do since there are holes all over my table.
Ditto...I also planned to replace the tops. The standard top that I'm going to use for drilling into, I did not use any glue on it. I Simply screwed the top to the frame, that way I can also replace it when I need to!
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