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  #1  
Old 11-03-2017, 02:23 PM
BruceMe's Avatar
BruceMe BruceMe is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 646
Default Refurb project - finishing the dream

Hey folks, this isn't a "new build" project. And it's not even a major repair project. It's more of a picking up where I left off on an airplane I built.

The goal.. a safe, clean, capable, efficient 40+mpg RV-4 that I can cruise around the country in.

I created a blog to track my progress and report on it.

http://254mm.blogspot.com


-Bruce
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Built/Own RV-4 254MM
Owned RV-6 4074V
First RV RV-3 3456B

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  #2  
Old 11-13-2017, 09:55 AM
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BruceMe BruceMe is offline
 
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Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 646
Default Engine overhaul first

I'm going to tare down and ship off the engine for overhaul while I rebuild the canopy.

I took off the flashing, took out the jugs, induction system, all accessories and bagged/labelled all the nuts and bolts. It's ready for the uniloader hoist it off the mount so I can reach the last pan bolts and remove the accessory case then drop the "bottom" (really the center core with crank/cam) into the car to transport to Tulsa for the engine shop to do final disassembly, clean, magna-flux, measure and re-assemble the core. I'll put the pan, accessory case, jugs, accessories, induction back on when it returns in late January.

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Built/Own RV-4 254MM
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First RV RV-3 3456B

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  #3  
Old 11-13-2017, 07:34 PM
EXflyer EXflyer is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Chiloquin OR
Posts: 9
Default

Why have them put the case and internal parts together only? Are you going to have the cylinders checked and honed along with new rings and possibly new pistons if needed? Just wondering.
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  #4  
Old 11-14-2017, 07:33 AM
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olyolson olyolson is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: St Louis, MO
Posts: 635
Default RV-4 refurb

Bruce,

If you're going to put on a new canopy are you considering just using sikaflex and no rivets? Mine had a riveted canopy when I got it and yes you guessed it- had small cracks at several rivet points. Put on a tinted canopy using sikaflex and after 2 years it's holding up perfectly.
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  #5  
Old 11-16-2017, 08:08 AM
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BruceMe BruceMe is offline
 
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Location: Shawnee, Kansas
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EXflyer View Post
Why have them put the case and internal parts together only? Are you going to have the cylinders checked and honed along with new rings and possibly new pistons if needed? Just wondering.
I'd like someone that's experienced and being checked to do the tricky front bearing. If you put that in wrong, throw away the engine. I'd also feel better with them sealing the case. I've done the rest before.

I will do a full overhaul including the top-end. I'm likely going to replace the pistons with 10.5:1 for increased cruise efficiency, not raw power, but I'll get that too.
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Built/Own RV-4 254MM
Owned RV-6 4074V
First RV RV-3 3456B

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  #6  
Old 11-16-2017, 08:14 AM
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BruceMe BruceMe is offline
 
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Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olyolson View Post
Bruce,

If you're going to put on a new canopy are you considering just using sikaflex and no rivets? Mine had a riveted canopy when I got it and yes you guessed it- had small cracks at several rivet points. Put on a tinted canopy using sikaflex and after 2 years it's holding up perfectly.
The canopy on there now is 100% sikaflex built ~2006 (about 2 yrs before first flight). I honestly did a messy job. Others have posted better work. My canopy has never cracked or de-bonded to the frame despite really awful abuse. The "non-critical" skirt which I sikaflex'd as well, has de-bonded when the canopy slammed open rev'g to taxiing in wet muddy grass. I will rivet the skirt to the frame as well as sika. I will also repeat the Sika with this canopy re-cut project as I do really like it. I'll likely have to carefully die-grind (scotchbright wheel) off the old Sika in some spots, but I'm mostly cutting down the existing glass.

This is what I plan to do to the canopy
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Bruce Meacham

Built/Own RV-4 254MM
Owned RV-6 4074V
First RV RV-3 3456B

VAF annual donation on autopay

Last edited by BruceMe : 11-16-2017 at 08:19 AM.
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  #7  
Old 11-17-2017, 08:49 AM
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BruceMe BruceMe is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 646
Default Going constant speed

I've decided to convert my O-320-B2C to constant speed. There are several thread on it and I think I have a plan for the conversion...

The conversion is covered clearly in Lycoming's Service Instruction 1435. It's a pretty involved process. Also there's a great thread on VAF where someone did exactly what I'm about to do here...


I have purchased a Hartzell 72" propellor used 200hrs on an O-320 RV-4;
Hub: HC-C2YL-1BF
Blade: F8468-12 (72" factory)
It has 7/16" prop bolts, which match my flange lugs.

- Have the crank shop refit the flange dowels to match the new prop
- Have the crank guy swap the covers while he's yellow tagging it (Per Lyc. SI 1435)
- Install the fitting in the neck
- Install the governor pad adapter and gear
- Fabricate or buy the prop oil line
- Open the firewall footwell recess required for a CS RV-4
- Install the governor (I've got a line on several)
- Install a vernier prop control and bracket
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Bruce Meacham

Built/Own RV-4 254MM
Owned RV-6 4074V
First RV RV-3 3456B

VAF annual donation on autopay

Last edited by BruceMe : 11-17-2017 at 09:02 AM.
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