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Old 06-21-2018, 06:14 PM
f14av8r's Avatar
f14av8r f14av8r is offline
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tampa (Wimauma actually)
Posts: 406
Default $1200 Flat Rate

The big left knob quit working properly. I couldn't dial the most significant digits accurately. So I reluctantly gave my 430W to my local avionics shop for processing. Garmin would not take it directly from me so I had to work through an authorized dealer.

I got it back today. The repair description says Garmin replaced the faulty knob, checked, aligned, updated, blah, blah, blah, and $1200 dollars later I get my 430W back with a BRAND NEW KNOB.

Kudos to my local avionics shop, Mac Avionics at KLAL. They didn't charge me a penny for their labor / support. But, with shipping, the total was $1250 bucks. REALLY? For replacing a knob?

I like Garmin products, I really do. But, their business model is obviously focused on those for whom money is not an object. I think I'll focus MY future avionics business model and dollars on companies for whom VALUE for the owner is an object. I'll also look for those companies that understand the owner / operator equation and especially the EXPERIMENTAL owner / operator. I could care less about all that paper they gave me with the repair! I just wanted it fixed.

To their credit, they did get it back in less than 10 days. Replacing a knob apparently takes that long . . .
Randy King
Tampa (Wimauma), Florida
RV-4 N212CS (sold)
RV-8 N184RK (flying)
Flying an A320 to pay the bills
Exempt and gladly donating anyway - Current through March 2020
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Old 02-21-2019, 09:10 AM
BarranAir BarranAir is offline
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Canada and USA
Posts: 2

Originally Posted by txshan130 View Post
Maybe post some pics as to what stage you are at... It's been a long time since I did it so I probably won't be much of a help anymore. Hopefully some other guys chime in with more recent info.

QUOTE=BMC_Dave;1266858]So I'm having this exact issue on my 430 that was upgraded to a 430W in 2017, it's a 2007 unit originally. I'd really appreciate if anyone could give some detail on how to get the face plate off, it's not immediately apparent and I don't want to damage the unit. I've tugged on some things as hard as I dare and nothing has budged.

Hi Guys,

HERE ARE SOME PICS: See Link below:

I have started tackling this on my Cirrus which is also getting long in the tooth; it is now 18 years old. I have dismantled most of the major components in the two GNS 430s with the two objectives of cleaning the sticky buttons and also of replacing the battery.

Couple of hints:

- To remove the ribbon from the back of the display screen, gently push up the tabs on the ends of the little plastic cover on the connector until it pivots up and the ribbon will spring free. To reassemble, make sure that the plastic cover is pivoted open, then slide the ribbon into the slot underneath until it butts on the end then pivot the cover to the flat position over the ribbon and slide the cover down on the connector to clamp the ribbon. Give a gentle tug on the ribbon to make sure it is clamped by the plastic cover.

- To remove the knobs, use a medium sized flat screwdriver to push the buttons off one at a time. They are just held in by friction. Take care to exert pressure as evenly as possible so the button doesn't get cocked. Suggest twist the screwdriver alternately on opposite sides of the button. When it has moved a few millimeters, you can pull it off with your fingers.

- To remove the knob components, you will need to unfold the GNS into the two components, NAV and COM, as shown in the PICS. This will expose the other ends of the ribbons and give you easy access to pulling the connectors out. Take care, of course, not to damage or bend the delicate pins. Once the ends are separated from the mother boards, you can unscrew the knobs in the face plate. The large hex nut (about 1/2 inch) holding down each of the two big knobs are difficult to fit with a socket ... I used needle-nosed pliers to grab opposite flats on the nut and twisted it off, one flat at a time, until I could unscrew it with my finger.

Overall, not too difficult. I recommend doing this on a comfortable work bench or table with lots of bright lighting. It is important to see small movement of screws and fasteners to know if you are making the right moves, else you might end up forcing something.

I have sprayed the tops of the metal snap caps with an electrical contact cleaner. I can't figure out how to get the caps off so sprayed sideways hoping to get under them. I did the first one yesterday and re-assembled the unit and put it back into the panel and it started up.


However, while each button operation is generally improved, one of them is still majorly sticky. I will re-do this in the second stage of this project when I am replacing the battery. I think the problem is that the cleaning agent didn't get into the contact area because it is covered by the metal snap caps.

If someone can help me with how to expose the contacts underneath, I would really appreciate it.

I am at the stage of waiting for my new batteries to be delivered and I am preparing to de-solder the old battery. I have not yet removed the mother board as I want to keep the two projects separate. But I have exposed the batteries above the mother board as you can see in the PICs. I have to remove the motherboard and expose the battery terminals and de-solder them. Never done this before but will practise on a scrap circuit board when all the de-soldering equipment arrives. I have my ESD wrist bracelet ready for that operation.

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Old 02-21-2019, 05:46 PM
txshan130 txshan130 is offline
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 121

BarranAir -

Thx for adding the hints! I will move them to the top if I can...

First of all, please make sure you use Deoxit and nothing else...that is important.

I looked at your pictures and it's not evident that you finished taking it all the way apart - Did you get it to the point where you're looking at the PC board with the snap caps (see my pictures on first post)? If so, all you need to do is peel off the top part - the caps are held on with clear packing tape.

Get some new clear packing tape to use when you put them back on. I am pretty sure that spraying them without removing the tape will not be very effective.
Brian Shannon
Katy, TX
RV6 N7463B
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Old 03-12-2019, 07:46 PM
BarranAir BarranAir is offline
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Canada and USA
Posts: 2

Hi Brian,
No I did not take the tape off; it was practically invisible and didnít seem to be what was holding down the caps on the micro switches. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
I will reopen the units, one at a time, in a couple of weeks. DeOxIt to be delivered, then I am diving in.
Wish me good luck with the buttons and with the battery replacement.
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