RV-10 Window Detail

Hi All,

I've read many posts about finishing windows, and I would like to add my process to the group for opinion. I've read about the cracks between "plexi" and Fiberglass. Through my investigation on VAF I came to the conclusion that I wanted to place a layer of fiberglass over the plexi to tie everything in. I also wanted a definite transition from canopy to window. More than just paint, but 1/8" or so fillet. So I used 3M double sided tape outside of the window, but aligned with the inside of the canopy (covered the window glue), as a way to keep a 3/32 or so reveal on the outside of the window. I should also mention that I used electrical tape directly to the plexi and 3M tape on top of that. I used West System 407 and will follow with 410 fairing compound around the windows, remove the tape to reveal a lip, sand it smooth/straight and then ease the edge to create the final product. Pictures will hopefully explain more.

There could be a little extra drag there when all said and done and replacing a broken window will be difficult.


3M Tape applied after window set with Lord Adhesive



After 3M tape removed, a little sanding, then electrical tape removed



Example of eased edge. Ended up redoing this and will ease all edges just prior to shooting the primer. I have at least 3/4" of fiberglass and filler on top of the window at this point. I may still paint a black trim ring around the window just so that no part of the inside lip can be seen. Wacha think?

Same here

There are a few of us doing that too.

Here's what I did:
Used Weld-On to adhere all the windows in place. After curing I taped off the roughly 3/4" flange with two layers of electrical tape, that I just glued the windows to, on the outside of the windows. This leaves 3/4" of plexi that was then roughed up with 220 grit until there was no shine. I applied two layers of 9oz cloth strips around the perimeter of the windows butting the edges up to the tape I just applied. This will cover any gap between the plexi and the cabin top. The first strip of cloth was 1.5" and the second was 2". In the corners I used four layers. Once all this cured I sanded everything down and feathered it out to blend in seamlessly. I kept sanding and feathering until I got down flush to one layer of tape. You can see from the first picture. The thin, dark line running up the middle of the image is the thickness of a single layer of tape.


In the second picture from right to left is the pink cabin top followed by the Weld-On layer followed by the edge of the transition.



There's almost zero drag and I know I'll never get any cracking.

Jasonm said:

There are a few of us doing that too.


There's almost zero drag and I know I'll never get any cracking.

Click to expand...

That looks really good. I'm sure I will end up with small amount of drag using my method, but I really want there to be a definite transition (and for me more than a paint line) These pics may show the lip I created with the thickness of the double sided tape a little better. Just finished sanding the profile. Thanks for the response!

Cbull and Jason those look awesome!