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  #1  
Old 10-28-2015, 02:10 AM
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rdamazio rdamazio is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Santa Clara, CA
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Unhappy HS rear spar holes misaligned

Hi all.

I'm nearly done with my HS - riveted the rear spar to the skin on the top side without issues, riveted it to the bottom right side...and then the holes on the bottom left side have a slight misalignment



Even though the misalignment is less than 1/32", that's enough to make the rivets not go in straight:



I'm pretty sure I drilled these straight, and had no mishaps while riveting the ribs. I followed the instructions religiously.

Any suggestions on what to do here?

I assume using a drill to make the holes match again is a bad idea?

I tried putting a little force to make it align, but it only makes the skin start to bulge, so I stopped.

The other thing is that it's about 40degF colder today than when I drilled these - the metal wouldn't deform this much with such a small temperature variation, would it?

Thanks everyone in advance!
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  #2  
Old 10-28-2015, 06:24 AM
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Jesse Jesse is offline
 
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If you hold a couple of clecoed at and angle to help it along and squeeze one River, it often will pull and hold the parts aligned and the rest will be straight.
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  #3  
Old 10-28-2015, 11:34 AM
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rdamazio rdamazio is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse View Post
If you hold a couple of clecoed at and angle to help it along and squeeze one River, it often will pull and hold the parts aligned and the rest will be straight.
I tried that, but the skin doesn't move, just bulges :/
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  #4  
Old 10-28-2015, 12:35 PM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
 
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I literally just went though this last night. I laid the HS on it's side and started dropping rivets into place... several times I got to areas that were like in your picture and I couldn't put a rivet in there. What I found that if I started from the inner section and moved outward with the squeezer it pulled it enough to align everything back up.
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  #5  
Old 10-28-2015, 01:44 PM
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9GT 9GT is offline
 
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Get yourself a few tapered awls or machinist scribes. The work very well to line things up.
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  #6  
Old 10-28-2015, 06:00 PM
Richard Connell Richard Connell is offline
 
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My HS 1003 spar had slipped on the punching machine so the outboard 20 or so holes wouldn't line up with the skin either. It was about the same misalignment - a little over 1/32. It was very clear where the offending hole was as they were exactly 1" centers then one that was 61/64 then back to 1" again.

But I noticed it at the drilling stage as I couldn't get the skin clecoed to the spar to match drill it in the first place. So I'm not sure if you have the same issue.
I required a new spar.

Van did point out that they punch 10 or so at a time on one sheet then shear it into 10 spars then bend the flanges. So it's possible there are more out there with the same issue.

Cheers

Richard
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  #7  
Old 10-28-2015, 06:25 PM
spark68 spark68 is offline
 
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Default opps rivets

How about drill to #30 and use opps rivets? Same head size, but larger shank.
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  #8  
Old 10-28-2015, 06:34 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spark68 View Post
How about drill to #30 and use opps rivets? Same head size, but larger shank.
Try to avoid using opps rivets at all cost. They can pull out over time. Using one in a line is OK but not a bunch of them. You are better off drilling them up one size and putting in larger rivets.
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  #9  
Old 10-28-2015, 09:34 PM
bwestfall bwestfall is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N941WR View Post
Try to avoid using opps rivets at all cost. They can pull out over time. Using one in a line is OK but not a bunch of them. You are better off drilling them up one size and putting in larger rivets.
What about the oops rivet makes them pull out over time? Does the smaller machined head work it's way loose because of the larger diameter shank? I have not heard this before.
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  #10  
Old 10-28-2015, 11:18 PM
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rdamazio rdamazio is offline
 
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Thanks all for the suggestions, I managed to get this done, and my HS is now completed

The way I did it was similar to some of the suggestions above, but instead of an awl or cleco, I used a #40 dimple die I had, which better supported the hole instead of risking deforming one side - slowly used it on one hole to force the skin into alignment, then put the cleco on the next hole (rinse, repeat 31 times). I also bucked these rivets instead of squeezing to make sure they didn't bend.
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