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  #1  
Old 02-16-2015, 01:19 PM
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Bluelabel Bluelabel is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 350
Default Fuel return lines. Don't make this mistake

So, last week, we discovered our first major BOO BOO....
In starting to plan for attaching the wings, we were noting how we wanted to connect the fuel lines, i.e. make a piece of tubing, get hoses made etc...
Since we are going with the EFII Fuel Injection, we off course need a full return line into the tanks since it runs much like an automotive loop. Our fuselage had the return lines already plumbed when we got it since he was gong to put a Subaru in it. So we just had to plan on it for the tanks.
As it turns out, we placed the return line to the tank right where it will be in the way of the main spar... OUCH!!!
How could we have done such a bonehead thing you ask? Well, return lines are not part of the plans and it was one of the first times we had to make a decision as to where something would go. We picked a spot far from he fuel pickup but somehow didn't account for the spar....
After sulking over it for 30 minutes feeling like an idiot, and looking up every known adapter and fitting in existence, we came to the conclusion that the only fix is to bite the bullet, cut into the tank at the end, remove the the bulkhead fitting from the inside (as it was put in), seal it up, put in a new one, then seal the tank back up.... not looking forward to it.
I've been having dreams (well nightmares) that the first time we put fuel into the tanks that, even though they passed all our tests, they for some reason are going to leak like a siv. Maybe my subconscious knew what we did.....




The worst part.... 1/2" further out and we'd be fine.....
In the immortal words of Homer Simpson..."DOH!!"


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John Walker
RV-10 N265WD
"Miss Whiskey Delta"
BPE IO-540, FULL EFII
KMYF, San Diego, Ca.
KEOS, Neosho, MO

Crew Lead on the
Grove Aero Super Legacy Reno Racer,
twin turbo, IO-540,
full EFII management system
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  #2  
Old 02-16-2015, 05:44 PM
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majuro15 majuro15 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Charlotte, NC
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Default

Man, I think I made the same mistake. Didn't even think about it. My return fitting is about 1 1/8" away from the wing spar, which I don't think is enough room to fit the front bulkhead spar in there and be able to thread a hose fitting on it. I may have to pull the bulkhead spar down from storage and just see.

Reading the plans, the thicker of the two fuselage spars goes towards the leading edge, correct?

Bummer.
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  #3  
Old 02-16-2015, 06:03 PM
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digidocs digidocs is offline
 
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Default



Hmmnnn...
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  #4  
Old 02-17-2015, 02:46 PM
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Bluelabel Bluelabel is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digidocs View Post


Hmmnnn...
Yup..... Guess I'm not the only one.....

Our tanks have been attached to the wings for almost a year.... Decided the best thing is to take them off and go in from the back... Nice clean hole that will be easier to get good seal on.
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John Walker
RV-10 N265WD
"Miss Whiskey Delta"
BPE IO-540, FULL EFII
KMYF, San Diego, Ca.
KEOS, Neosho, MO

Crew Lead on the
Grove Aero Super Legacy Reno Racer,
twin turbo, IO-540,
full EFII management system
!

"so I got that going for me... which is nice."
2017 Dues Paid"
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  #5  
Old 02-17-2015, 05:59 PM
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majuro15 majuro15 is offline
 
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I'm thinking for those who need to fix this, would it be feasible to remove the fuel sender unit and get access through that hole? I know it's tight and would require small hands, but it'd save cutting a new hole in the tank.

I plan to remove the fittings this way and patch the wrongly placed hole from the outside. Then relocate the fitting. If planned out properly, I think I can accomplish it without too much extra work.

John, separate question but do you have a source for the electrical connectors you are using? They seem like a nice solution.

Thanks!
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RV-10 Fuselage under construction
N127TL Reserved
EAA #: 1106970
2017 VAF Dues Paid!
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  #6  
Old 02-18-2015, 07:51 AM
jc11378 jc11378 is offline
 
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Location: Dixon Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by majuro15 View Post
I'm thinking for those who need to fix this, would it be feasible to remove the fuel sender unit and get access through that hole? I know it's tight and would require small hands, but it'd save cutting a new hole in the tank.

I plan to remove the fittings this way and patch the wrongly placed hole from the outside. Then relocate the fitting. If planned out properly, I think I can accomplish it without too much extra work.

John, separate question but do you have a source for the electrical connectors you are using? They seem like a nice solution.

Thanks!


Wow looks like I am in the same boat. I installed the BNC connector for my capacitance fuel quantity indication system in the same location. I will have to see how the center wing spars fit. I am hoping they just clear. Or I will have to cut holes in the rear baffles and install new ones. Man what a pain.
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  #7  
Old 02-18-2015, 08:32 AM
TFeeney TFeeney is offline
 
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Location: Lafayette, IN
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Default Sticky for -10?

Seems like enough people have done this - could we add to a sticky list of gotchas?
Doing a search only showed an RV14 gotcha sticky.

In my build, I've used Tim Olsen's list considerably for the RV10, but think this might be good to add to VAF.
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  #8  
Old 02-18-2015, 09:46 AM
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Bluelabel Bluelabel is offline
 
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Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by majuro15 View Post
I'm thinking for those who need to fix this, would it be feasible to remove the fuel sender unit and get access through that hole? I know it's tight and would require small hands, but it'd save cutting a new hole in the tank.

I plan to remove the fittings this way and patch the wrongly placed hole from the outside. Then relocate the fitting. If planned out properly, I think I can accomplish it without too much extra work.

John, separate question but do you have a source for the electrical connectors you are using? They seem like a nice solution.

Thanks!
I don't think the hole where the Sender goes is big enough. Not even for a tiny hand....

As for the connectors... they are Weather Pak. I think I got them from a combo of Amazon and Waytekwire.com. They come in a combos of 2-3-4-6 and you can just get the pins for the right gauge wire. Combined with some heat shrink they work really good.
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John Walker
RV-10 N265WD
"Miss Whiskey Delta"
BPE IO-540, FULL EFII
KMYF, San Diego, Ca.
KEOS, Neosho, MO

Crew Lead on the
Grove Aero Super Legacy Reno Racer,
twin turbo, IO-540,
full EFII management system
!

"so I got that going for me... which is nice."
2017 Dues Paid"

Last edited by Bluelabel : 02-18-2015 at 09:50 AM.
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  #9  
Old 03-01-2015, 03:39 PM
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majuro15 majuro15 is offline
 
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Okay, I gave it a shot last night and am happy to report that with proper planning and plenty of patience, it is possible to remove the ill placed fitting through the fuel sender hole.

I removed the fuel sender being careful to not strip the screws since they had proseal on them. I then safety wired my adjustable wrench to the front spar so I wouldn't lose it forever in the tank. I preadjusted the wrench and snaked it in the tank. Using a magnet extension wand, I was able to manuever the wrench into place on both the tubing flare nut and the bulkhead nut. Then I just tipped the tank on end to get the nut and small length of tubing I had attached to the inside nipple.

All this took me about 30 minutes and tired out my two fingers that I was able to fit in the hole, but in my opinion better than cutting a hole in the tank.

Next step is to patch the original hole from the outside using some AD41H rivets and a small patch and then relocate the AN fitting towards the leading edge on the other side of the vent fitting.
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  #10  
Old 03-02-2015, 12:45 PM
JDanno JDanno is offline
 
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Location: Tennessee
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You guys aren't the first nor will you be the last! How do I know.......??
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