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  #11  
Old 07-08-2014, 06:39 PM
hayabusa hayabusa is offline
 
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
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"I've already cut my long pushrods to the length called for on the plans."
Yep, same here. There`s multiple revisions on the drawing for this measurement so I made the assumption that it was correct. Time will tell. I dread to think how much it costs to send that tube to Australia. 188USD for a 4 foot postal tube last time I ordered 40USD worth of parts.
I`ve actually made the long and short aileron control rods to the drawings ready for fitment later.

Last edited by hayabusa : 07-08-2014 at 06:48 PM.
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  #12  
Old 07-08-2014, 07:04 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grayforge View Post
1/2" would be fine.

The other important variable is that the threads need to be over 1/2 way in the bearings. If you loosen the stop nuts fully and twist the rod all the way one direction and all the way the other, the thread should not come out of the bearings.
Can a sleeve be used to prevent excessive "threading" if both ends come loose?
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  #13  
Old 07-08-2014, 07:22 PM
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grayforge grayforge is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Iluke View Post
Russ-

I'm about to the point of cutting my long aileron push rod tubes and I'd like to benefit from your experience. Can you confirm the extra length that you came up with was 66 1/8 and that worked? A close look at your photo seems to show a smidge over 66 1/8.

What length do you suggest I shoot for when cutting mine?

Thanks for your great posts.

-Ivan
I'll re-measure tonight. :-)
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  #14  
Old 07-08-2014, 07:23 PM
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grayforge grayforge is offline
 
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Originally Posted by BillL View Post
Can a sleeve be used to prevent excessive "threading" if both ends come loose?
It could, just like an extra jam nut would too. But I was worried about too little threads left to secure the ends well, so went with longer rods.
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  #15  
Old 07-09-2014, 01:32 AM
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Arie Arie is offline
 
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I just cut the 4 feet stock Vans send you in the kit in two. Mine is therefore 2 feet long each and it worked great. With the aileron neutral I show 3 to 4 threads between the jam nuts and the pushrod.
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  #16  
Old 07-09-2014, 02:46 AM
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grayforge grayforge is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iluke View Post
Russ-

I'm about to the point of cutting my long aileron push rod tubes and I'd like to benefit from your experience. Can you confirm the extra length that you came up with was 66 1/8 and that worked? A close look at your photo seems to show a smidge over 66 1/8.

What length do you suggest I shoot for when cutting mine?

Thanks for your great posts.

-Ivan
Hi Ivan,

I carefully measured my longer aileron tubes. They are 66 7/32" long. 7/16" longer than spec.

One thing you could do to avoid rework: Cut them on the long side like mine, but hold off riveting one of the ends on until you do your wing fitting. You can then trim them if need be, then rivet the remaining ends on.

Good luck!
Russ
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  #17  
Old 07-09-2014, 07:06 AM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grayforge View Post

One thing you could do to avoid rework: Cut them on the long side like mine, but hold off riveting one of the ends on until you do your wing fitting. You can then trim them if need be, then rivet the remaining ends on.

Good luck!
Russ
That's the way we did it in the olden, pre-CAD days, and is still the way I'd do it even if building a current kit. There is no need to assemble the pushrods prior to rigging the wings. Build to fit.
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  #18  
Old 07-09-2014, 09:11 AM
Iluke Iluke is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grayforge View Post
Hi Ivan,

I carefully measured my longer aileron tubes. They are 66 7/32" long. 7/16" longer than spec.

One thing you could do to avoid rework: Cut them on the long side like mine, but hold off riveting one of the ends on until you do your wing fitting. You can then trim them if need be, then rivet the remaining ends on.

Good luck!
Russ
Russ-
Thanks very much. That is exactly what I will do: Cut them long but leave the inboard end loose until later. Don't know why that didn't occur to me, it makes so much sense!

Thanks again!
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  #19  
Old 07-09-2014, 10:57 AM
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grayforge grayforge is offline
 
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You're quite welcome Ivan. As Sam says, there are some areas where it's best to wait until later to trim to fit. The catch is: predicting these. :-)
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  #20  
Old 07-11-2014, 06:30 AM
hayabusa hayabusa is offline
 
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Originally Posted by grayforge View Post
You're quite welcome Ivan. As Sam says, there are some areas where it's best to wait until later to trim to fit. The catch is: predicting these. :-)
You`re quite correct on that one! what catches me out with my build is that Vans put a measurement on their quite comprehensive drawings, sometimes with multiple revisions. It leads me to assume they have done the homework when it`s obvious they haven`t. If they left it as "make to fit", then that`s entirely acceptable to me. Considering the spar in this case is jig built and a know entity, and so are the all the 4130 weldments that effect the rod length, there`s a revised measurement given, AND the rod ends are adjustable you`d think they worked it out! In my case, if the rod doesn`t fit, I`ll be ordering the appropriate heim bearings and lock washers to make the rods serviceable and airworthy. Shipping cost is a real waste of money that`s better spent on the final product.
After a couple of these incidents on a built you learn to disregard the drawings almost entirely and build from common sense and experience. IE - Don`t do anything to a part that affects it`s fit to another part if you don`t have them both on the bench or in a jig!
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