Answer: A resin box warmer!
For those who need to do fiberglass work in colder temperatures you might want to keep your resin and hardener warm so it sets up better. In my case, I let the shop cool to ~50* F at night and warm it up when I want to work in there. However I would like to keep the resin warm. So I made a box out of galvinized tin and surrounded it with 2" foam insulation. Then I needed a way to keep the box warm.
Eureka! A crockpot dismantled and the inner liner cut:
Readying the outer surface for cutting:
Wire it up and add some tabs:
And Voila!
Buy a cheap temperature controller off ebay - something for a bird brooder - that has a probe, wire it up, install the probe and it now keeps a reasonably constant temperature in the box:
It turns the heat on at 26* C and shuts it off at 27* C. The residual heat warms the space to ~31* C before it falls back to 26 *C and starts the cycle over. Here is the box all closed up:
For those who need to do fiberglass work in colder temperatures you might want to keep your resin and hardener warm so it sets up better. In my case, I let the shop cool to ~50* F at night and warm it up when I want to work in there. However I would like to keep the resin warm. So I made a box out of galvinized tin and surrounded it with 2" foam insulation. Then I needed a way to keep the box warm.
Eureka! A crockpot dismantled and the inner liner cut:
Readying the outer surface for cutting:
Wire it up and add some tabs:
And Voila!
Buy a cheap temperature controller off ebay - something for a bird brooder - that has a probe, wire it up, install the probe and it now keeps a reasonably constant temperature in the box:
It turns the heat on at 26* C and shuts it off at 27* C. The residual heat warms the space to ~31* C before it falls back to 26 *C and starts the cycle over. Here is the box all closed up: