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Gascolator removal challenge

Mike Buettgenbach

Active Member
I'm working my 3rd annual inspection. Inspection of the gascolator bowl has not been a challenge in the past inspections.
I've removed the retainer plate and tried all the twisting, nudging, pulling and loud words that I know . . . and the bowl will not come out of the housing. It will move somewhat freely except for something on the aft side of the bowl. It feels like the O-ring is bonded to the housing in one small spot. I didn't put anything on the O-ring on the last inspection.
Aside from removing the entire gascolator from the aircraft (where I can put it on the bench and really "John Wayne" the thing till it releases), I'm out of ideas.

Thoughts on leverage, lubricant, or other?

Thx much!
 
Mike , can you get a little ice around it and get the bowl colder as it is made of aluminum and may shrink enough to break lose, I hate to say this but using a hair dryer with the fuel supply OFF alternately with ice cooling may free it from what is holding the two parts together?
 
It also helps to push the drain valve in while you're pulling otherwise you create a vaccum when you're pulling down. I always install 'O' rings using parker 'O' ring lube, they should not be installed dry.
 
It also helps to push the drain valve in while you're pulling otherwise you create a vaccum when you're pulling down. I always install 'O' rings using parker 'O' ring lube, they should not be installed dry.

Walt has it it.
You need to break the vacuum by either holding the drain open or removing the quick drain.
 
Gascolator removal tool

Presented herewith is my gascolator removal tool for your perusal and use, if you wish.
The tool is easy to make from 1/8" pipe nipples and a tee. Function is two-fold. First, the installation breaks the vacuum in the bowl. Second, it gives you a convenient T handle to use to wiggle the bowl off.
P1040403-M.jpg


Simple, effective, cheap, what more could you want?

Tony
 
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More info

I forgot to mention, I remembered (from the earlier inspections) that the vacuum effect presented a bit of challenge, so I removed the valve early on in this challenge. I obtained a pair of "cannon plug" pliers, they provide a pretty good grip on the bowl for twisting/pulling without damage . . that did not work either.

I believe I'll give Tony's tool a try.

And I took note of the "O-ring lube" comment; that is likely my downfall from previous inspections.

I'll report back when I get this @#^^% thing out.

Thx !
 
I forgot to mention, I remembered (from the earlier inspections) that the vacuum effect presented a bit of challenge, so I removed the valve early on in this challenge. I obtained a pair of "cannon plug" pliers, they provide a pretty good grip on the bowl for twisting/pulling without damage . . that did not work either.

I believe I'll give Tony's tool a try.

And I took note of the "O-ring lube" comment; that is likely my downfall from previous inspections.

I'll report back when I get this @#^^% thing out.

Thx !

Yup, a liberal application of Dow Corning #4 (DC4) grease on the O-ring will help a huge amount for re-installation and then later removal.
 
Got it off!

After a significant amount of effort using the "Tony tool" and the Cannon plug pliers, I decided to spray just a small bit of LPS 1 lube it . . . .it came off shortly thereafter.

Thx for the help! . . . and don't forget the DC4 grease.
 
Tony, that's brilliant

in its simplicity and functionality! I don't suppose you have a similar idea for getting those (*^(*&^% safety wires in place now?

Wayne 120241/143WM
 
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