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VFR to Russia (In Memory of Bob Axsom)

Vlad

Well Known Member
The idea of flying my RV to Russia floated in my head for years. In 2016 I did an extended run polishing Alaska perimeter testing myself if I could swing the challenge of crossing Bering Strait. For couple years I was digging world travelers' blogs and read anything I could find on the subject of flying VFR to Russia. There was a group of Alaskans who did a run to the closest Russian airport and back but their accounts didn't tell much of a positive. They encountered border hurdles, absence of avgas, lack of services and language barrier. So there wasn't much info online. I planned to visit the first large settlement Anadyr on Chukotka Peninsula and for the life of me I couldn't find anything useful.

I contacted AOPA Russia tourism department and they agreed to be my agent. I studied FAVT website (Russian FAA) and made an attempt to contact them directly. A response from the government came three months later citing some rules I couldn't even read. AOPA Russia was a gem. These guys are the best they quickly requested all my pilot information in proper format and advised on insurance. Insurance had a questionnaire so extensive I even forgot some things. One provision they asked was a permit to fly but the permit couldn't be issued without insurance. AOPA Russia broke that circle and I was able to buy a policy for 10 days.

Passport came with a Russian visa and I thought all is set. I even had a "maybe" second ship going with me to Alaska and wait there in case I need a recovery. Another RVator agreed to be an autopilot to Seattle life was good.

I am still waiting for FAVT Permit, four weeks before the trip and the motor throws a joke on me. A hole in the piston cylinder #2. A piece of compression ring broke, wore in and ejected itself via exhaust valve. So new proper piston goes in with rings etc. the jug receives a hone and I am up again breaking it in...


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Extra vacation time approved from work and I am running away just hours before we are blanketed with flight restrictions. Next stop - Lachute, Canada where my good friend Julian has a hangar home. He will help me to fine tune everything, fill me up on Russian news, we will brush up on the language and I'll pad some fat.


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I have a habit of leaving for an extended trip via Hudson River Corridor. It gives a good morale boost. If you know where to look and wave long enough the whole 100 floor at Freedom Tower will wave at you...


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The corridor is getting saturated with cool hardware the POTUS is coming.

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Three hours later I was in Canada. Julian met me and we went for a ride to Tim Hortons.


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I love Canada. We spent the weekend working on my airplane. Basically it was another condition inspection. Julian balanced my prop both static and dynamic. Runs smooth like silk.


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I noticed a "breathing" screw on fuel tank sender and sure Julian has a proper sealer to fix it. He lend me his Delorme inreach tracker I am all set in non-APRS world.

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I decided to reach Alaska via northern Canada. First stop Pembroke a refuel and weather check.


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Next was Edenvale for a brunch. I met a Piper Cub pilot who tried to pay for my food. I thanked and the restaurant gladly took my Yankee roubles 1:1.
Canadian North is very remote a good exercise both mental and physical.


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Geraldton CYGQ was next. Wash rinse repeat. Gas, washroom, couple calls and flying again...

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Crown Royal and Kamsack SK

There is a good whiskey smell near Gimli. Crown Royal brewery and distribution center.


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Welcome to Gimli! One of the bumpiest taxiways in the world. :D

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Hey guys you BIG!! The tanker just dumped a ton of water on the taxiway. :D


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Full tanks and another leg to Kamsack, Saskatchewan. There is a motel within walking distance from the airfield. If you never been to Kamsack airport you didn't lose much. Remember the bad taxiway in Gimli? Kamsack runway is three times worse. Would be tough even for a tailwheel guy...


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Weather was calm there was nobody on the field. No tiedowns as well. I secured all control surfaces, chocked the wheels and walked to Duck Mountain Motel. Slept well.
 
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Cold Lake AB and Mackenzie BC

All details and finalized route came to my email box this morning. Hoorah! Permission to enter Russian airspace granted but via oceanic route where all traffic goes. Let me get closer then I will think about requesting over land route...

First leg of the day to Cold Lake AB. Under Canadian AirForce base controlled airspace lies a regional airport with cheaper gas.


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Military controllers approved the transition to CEN5 Cold Lake Regional airport and advised to review VFR departure from there. They were planning a heavy recovery in 15 minutes. I asked locals about the procedure they explained.

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The recovery started and boy I don't even have that many wasps in my mailbox! A number of fighter jets came out of nowhere. Thunder continued till my departure then a chopper came from the base and was loitering above for another 15 minutes. War games are on!! Let me get outta here...

Mackenzie BC next.


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There is a free ice cream in Mackenzie all summer long. Vicki a Ukrainian lady runs the show there. She will feed you too.

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After Mackenzie CYZY I intercepted an abandoned rail road which starts at Stuart Lake and runs north along a chain of other lakes and several rivers. Beautiful views.

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I was looking for a spot to land but after I saw a bear walking on a trestle I decided to press on.

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You don't see a bear but he is there...

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I definitely need a place to land soon. The nature is calling... :)
 
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Mind if I fly along?

I'll be living vicariously through you for a bit. I've always wanted to make a trip like this but life seems to always get in the way. Safe travels my friend. I'll be watching you.
 
Figured you were up to something with the talk about extended range tanks. Congrats. Looking forward to hearing more about your adventure.
 
As always you inspire and stir................

The adventurist in us all Vlad!

Enjoy your trip and know that half the RV community probably wishes we were your copilot.

Dave
p.s. Villeneuve AB is a nice stop on way back. No food just gas
 
Can't get enough ... keep them pictures coming

Vlad,

You could make a mint selling access to chapters of your life. Can't wait for next installments of your trip photos.
 
Vlad, when you get a chance, can you explain the tie in with Bob?

I have a deep respect for Bob Axsom. I couldn't say it better then Paul Dye...

The next time you turn on your GPS and see a terrain map....or look at your Synthetic Vision on your fancy EFIS....I want you to think of Bob Axsom. Bob was an important engineer at JPL when they built a radar system called SRTM (Space Radar Topography Mapper). We flew that monster payload on STS-99 and mapped (topographically) all the dirt on the planet between 60 degrees North and 60 degrees south. That data set will serve as the basis for ALL topographic mapping for the next 100 years.

Bob was instrumental to making that work. A racer? Yup - he did that too - but I will be forever grateful for what he did before he retired.

Bob already knows the way to Heaven - he helped map it.

Bob made a trip to Russia I never forget his story about care and hospitality. I thought if I ever make it to Russia with my homebuilt it will be in Bob's honor. Dedicated to a man of focus, knowledge and discipline.




... I was looking for a place to land. You can hold it only for so long at some age. Several airstrips marked with a cross on Canadian charts were not useable. I kept searching.


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Elevation got higher and I had to crank the heater up. It was in low 40ies.


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Here we go. Unmarked, uncharted, desolate. My kind of airstrip. Summit near Mt. Klappan.


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Bears already marked the sign.


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A pitstop, a quick shot I was here and out. Atlin Lake is my next and final stop for today. Greg Arehart's retreat.


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Impressive scenery on the way. Who the heck blew out the top of the mountain in the middle of nowhere? Otryad of B52s couldn't do damage like this.


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The closer to Greg's the more impressive geological formations. Professor definitely did his homework before choosing place for the dacha.


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I still had enough gas to loiter over Llewellyn Glacier.


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Greg and Julia's cabin is just minutes from the glacier. The old drill goes like this I buzz the cabin Greg sees me, I acknowledge his hand signal and fly to the airport. He comes and picks me up...


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Yes, comrade Professor, it's me again and now you are a part of all this vladventure.



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I relayed him my crazy plan of flying VFR to Russia but he didn't look overly surprised. He just regretted he didn't have his RV9 here at Atlin. Otherwise I would get a real escort-and-recovery ship.
 
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I'll be living vicariously through you for a bit. I've always wanted to make a trip like this but life seems to always get in the way.

Exactly... heck, my idea of a grand adventure is to fly my -8 from Texas to the Pacific Northwest, but it seems that life will just never let that happen. Ah well, at least Vlad shares his adventures with us!
 
Vlad
You are the man:D

Flew races with Bob.
Glad he is still with us, everyday with what he did.
Will remember him for a while.


When are you headed to Oshkosh???

Might have to buy you ANOTHER cold beer.

You are killing us with your travel pleasures.

Liked the BEAR pics.
The 4 engine ones.
Can talk about it later.


Press on and enjoy the travels.

Boomer
 
Greg Arehart is a fuel pump key keeper. He always fuels me on credit. I rare carry large sum of Canadian dollars but Greg believes the blank check I am leaving won't bounce. Thanks Greg.


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Taking off Atlin CYSQ to Tok PFTO. Some customs coordination required if you are low on gas. I planned to clear at Fairbanks, Alaska.


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The weather was good for about an hour


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then not so for 20 minutes


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then good again. A TFR was still in place advising of firefighting activity but the fire was already suppressed couple days ago. Passed Northway. Couple travelers I know arranged US Customs to clear here but the office is not flexible and couldn't respond on short notice. Fairbanks CBP could and I am heading there.


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Stop at Tok took 15 minutes. Topped off and rolling again.


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After Alaska pipeline suspension bridge it's a short hop to Fairbanks. TRSA controllers could pick you anywhere and route straight to the numbers doesn't matter you have transponder and weather or not. Alaska is a different flying world.


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Customs officers were quick and friendly. Asked where I go and were honestly surprised. I told them I'll return in 5-6 days on the way back if Nome couldn't accommodate.


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Russki,

I am looking forward to hearing the details this weekend!

Nice job! You are a true aviator!

See you soon, buddy!

We have a mission to perform!

:cool: CJ
 
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Vlad , I wish I didn't miss this trip , I had everything for it , even the Russian Visa , but life decided otherwise !
Cant wait for the whole story , I will be on premises tomorrow if you decide to Fly ...
 
All Roads Lead to Nome

Out of Fairbanks westbound.


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My friend Julian monitored enroute weather via FAA Wx cams and was my "backup FSS". He had a live feed from Inreach tracker and was able to text-warn me about thunderstorm activity before I reach the hostile area. I have a primitive Day VFR instrument panel. All steam gages.

The views are breathtaking. Hour goes after hour and you never get bored looking outside.

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Tanana River meets mighty Yukon.

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There is a number of airfields along Yukon River. Pitka PAGA is a nice one.


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After hopping over a range there are plenty of beaches which gives you a piece of mind.


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All roads lead to Nome. I've been here last year nothing changed.

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The North American portion of the route is finished. Here I am in Nome, Alaska 33 flying hours later. Airplane performs great weather forecast looks perfect for a week ahead.


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I secure my RV to the cable, call Growley for a fuel truck then take a $10 cab to town.


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Plenty of cold beer down on front street. If you meet a nice Eskimo carver, you can negotiate an ivory souvenir. I had fun living in Nome a while back. Not far to Russia now !!
 
Go-or-No decision

Welcome to Nome the end of Iditaron race home!


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I settled comfortably in Nugget Inn and went downstairs to Bering restaurant for Galbi a Korean BBQ and a beer. There was a performance by local FD not far from the Inn quite an entertainment.


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Back to my room I double checked if I have everything. VFR chart. Check. I also have an app a Russian developer (SkySmart) wrote for my iPad as a beta version but it had a lot of glitches and I wasn't able to update it. However downloaded charts were still useable and GPS position reflected the proper airplane location.

The current Russian VFR sectional is printed in St.Petersburg by РЦАИ but while buying online I was not able to process payment via their website. So I contacted an RV builder in Novosibirsk he bought and shipped it for me. Thanks Gennadiy! It took a month to deliver. The chart went from St.Petersburg to Novosibirsk. After Gennadiy shipped the package to me it went via St.Petersburg Customs again. Job security for shipping companies. :D

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I double checked if all bills are taken care off according to payment schedule. You can see the rates below AOPA Russia is very transparent on that. They all speak perfect English and patiently explained me everything I wanted to know. If anybody wants a direct contact please email or PM me.


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Here is the FAVT (Russian FAA) permit and my approved route for flying in/to Russian Federation. Check. For issuing this they would need .pdf copies of US pilot certificate, medical, registration, AW and a proof of insurance. Check check check on all originals. Passport, visa, check check...


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I finished my homework for today and went to bed early. Tomorrow if something doesn't work on my route to Russia or in doubt I would turn back and head toward the Aleutians the good weather week is opening there too. I am about to hit 55 in couple days so I want to celebrate it somewhere very few experimentalists can reach... :D
 
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Placeholder Two

On a nice morning of June the 15th I came to Nome airport as soon as FSS was open for business. I have an account with https://www.eurofpl.eu and they make international filing easy but I still wanted to double check with real people if I file right. After enjoying the US and Canada airspace flexibility I thought I could file VFR and fly over the land of Siberia rather then go my approved route over Bering Sea. Larry, a Nome FSS specialist, did some thinking and was able to file my flight plan via BATNI, an intersection near Little Diomede with very minimum flying over the Bering Strait. A day ago Marshal Severson of Anchorage flew the route to Providenia. His Cessna was still parked across the runway at Bering Air.

Weather forecast was looking good all the way to Anadyr. I quickly slapped required large N-numbers on the fuselage, jumped in the plane and took off.

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Smooth air, beautiful views. My old trusty Lycoming was singing happy to work next 3.5 hours. Somewhere abeam Tin City LRRS I dialed FSS RCO and closed my DVFR flight plan.


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Approaching Little Diomede I key the mike on Lavrentia Tower frequency no answer. One more time still nothing. A quick radio check on 121.5 comes as 5 by 5. The airplane is moving and I am already almost at the end of US ADIZ and still don't have a code and permission to enter Russian airspace.


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I dialed a frequency of higher command and Magadan Control responded. "N666BK, I hear you loud and clear, you are NOT permitted to enter Russian airspace..."

#%$@^?!!
 
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Vlad obviously topped the http://AirPRS.com stats dashboard for last week - and this doesn't even include his time in Alaska and Russia! (no APRS coverage up there)

For the week ending July 1 - Vlad has two of the top five longest flights; most number of flights; and most number of Flight hours.
 
Almost wish this Vladventure was on Netflix so I could binge watch. Waiting for the next episode is painful.:D
 
What a fantastic write up,can't wait to see "The rest of the story" A almost neighbor an very envious RV owner ! Tom
 
The Airspace belongs to...

I dialed a frequency of higher command and Magadan Control responded. "N666BK, I hear you loud and clear, you are NOT permitted to enter Russian airspace..."

#%$@^?!!

Awesome thread Vlad, again.
Having violated Russian Airspace several times (intentionally) while flying F16's in Japan in the late 80's (poking the Bear so to speak) I can relate!
Can't wait to hear the rest of the story...
V/R
Smokey

PS: when the controllers call you on guard advising you to "exit the airspace", use the quote from a squadron mate of mine "send out your champion" :)
 
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I suspect Vlad posted the last message then on purpose left us hanging for several days now.
 
Awesome thread Vlad, again.
Having violated Russian Airspace several times (intentionally) while flying F16's in Japan in the late 80's (poking the Bear so to speak) I can relate!
Can't wait to hear the rest of the story...
V/R
Smokey

PS: when the controllers call you on guard advising you to "exit the airspace", use the quote from a squadron mate of mine "send out your champion" :)

Same lines been going around for a while, only now it's responding to the Iranians on guard.

"If you do not change course you will be intercepted."
"Send em, I'll wait."

Kind of disapointing to merge with an F-4 or F-5....

Vlad, hurry it up!
 
For some reason, I think this story will end with Vlad being invited to the Kremlin to meet with Putin. :eek:

Vlad, you could be the Dennis Rodman of the RV world! :D:D:D
 
I expect next post will be a selfie with Putin; each with glass of vodka held high.
After that I expect a stop in north Korea to set things straight before returning home.
 
You guys have a great sense of humor. Thanks!


... Well, as I said, I didn't have permission to enter Russian airspace VFR over BATNI intersecton. I asked Magadan Control why, I have a confirmation of my flight plan passed through all Centers all the way to my destination Anadyr. The Magadan Control patiently explained to me that all international traffic enters Russian Federation airspace via VALDA and I am no exception. They do have my route and if I want to proceed further would I please go to VALDA and give them a call from there. There will be no negotiations because they have an order from Khabarovsk Center.

I turned southbound toward St Lawrence Island in the Bering Sea and got me some thinking. Do I need all of this? One hour over the freezing water then another hour plus, with distance to land as far as 50 NM? Winds are shifting there. Satellite image shows some clouds. Should I just turn around and stay home? I was trying to catch just a slight sense of engine "auto roughness" for any excuse but all was good. Lycoming kitten purred. So I made my decision to go ahead with planned route. Over VALDA I reported my position, got a discreet code and entered Russian airspace.


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A quick fly over terrain by Providenia and water again.


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This was the farthest distance. I would take hostile terrain over hospitable waters any day.

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I was given FL100 and some position reports I relayed via UPS brown trucks. You can see flocks of them and others in flight levels. For me there was no radar coverage.


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A lot of packed ice in the Bering Sea.


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That's how my airplane location looks on the Russian navigation app SkySmart.


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Arrived at the destination Anadyr, Russia

I was handed off to Anadyr Control about 70 NM out and was picked up by their radar right away.

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Got closer, picked up ATIS and was given descend at pilots discretion to 200 meters. I had to do some calculations because I didn't have metric instruments. I asked ATC to check if my transponder indicates correctly and of course it helped the conversion.

To my right the mountain range is called Golden Belt. It has the largest deposits of gold on Chukotka Peninsula.


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Straight ahead I can see a monstrous runway and a city of Anadyr across the bay.


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Down low in the gorge you can see an abandoned garrison. Back in the days when Smokey was young there were nukes hidden in those mountains. The infrastructure is still there in the granite. There is the whole underground city in it. Theoretically it could function even if grounds were wiped out by a nuclear strike. It's a touristy place but not many tourists are coming to that corner. Gudym is the name.


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I was given visual approach RWY 19.


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The city is more visible from here. On foreground stands another abandoned military unit. I will visit the place in three days.


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Runway at UHMA could easy accommodate a Space Shuttle. I flew my little RV to the last one third of it and still needed progressive instructions to exit it. A pair of Bear bombers and their tankers were readying to harass their Alaska buddies (was rumoured later). Very impressive and beautiful birds.


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I was marshalled to my parking spot in the farthest corner of the ramp. Several green hats (border guards and an officer) approached the airplane and signaled I can exit. It was mighty windy and cold in lower 40ies. A customs officer arrived as well (they are separate from the border patrol) then an airport official then somebody else... The border guards were very polite and patiently waited till I secured the airplane. A huge passenger bus was called then all the crowd of officials and one little pilot were transported to airport premises. Formalities were quick and rather easy. There was a minor snag on my part but it was resolved promptly and painlessly. Only 500 roubles fine...


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Aww, that isn't "that" much water... At least there aren't too many sharks in that water. I guess the cold would get you faster than the shark in the south. Just don't let darkness and clouds close in on you out there over the blue stuff below. Good job for not letting "auto rough" make your decisions.

What a great adventure! I like the format, knowing you're safe to talk about it.
 
Wow, touchdown on Russian soil! Very courageous water crossing. This trip is officially a major success. Congratulations! Everything else will be gravy. I'm looking forward to the gravy though.
 
Mate I thought you were flying over via spam can... now I know why the Australian articles I sent you weren't going to be read for a while.

Can someone please explain what the 'handgun in a circle' sign signifies?
Does the Hall of High Comfort have a shooting range as well as wifi?!


 
Hall of High Comfort.... that must be interesting.
Might as well keep on and keep calm. London is nice this time of year Vlad !
Glad you didn't swim....
 
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