Panel design review needed

I made some posts on my panel prototyping in the Show us your panel !!!!! thread. But since that's really for completed panels. I've moved my thread here.

Here's design 3.0. I'll include versions 1.0, 2.0 and 3.0 in latest to newest order below.

From feedback I've gotten:

1. Moved the Phones sockets under the vents for now. Might consider installing them between the seats.
2. Raised the G3X displays as high as feasible taking into consideration the upper forward skin rib.
3. Moved switches to bottom of panel
4. Moved dimmer switches to right, away from prime real estate.
5. Added the Cabin Heat knob, engine controls and alternate air knobs.
6. Added ELT Head

Version 3.0:


Version 2.0:


Version 1.0:

That layout looks much better!
Not sure if it was in a previous post, but I'm assuming the flaps and trim are on the stick grip? I would be tempted to move the switches left and or combine some switches with DPDT so they are flush with the right side of the G3X and move the cabin heat on the other side of the dimmers to open up the radio space. I would position the autopilot/radio vertically so you have plenty of room for a GTN 650 and an audio panel later. If at all possible ($$) would use a GMA240 and a GTN650 instead of the gtr225, it would be a solid Ifr panel you wouldn't have to wire in later.
I'm not one to talk, my radio stack is bare except for a handheld. I hope to add a backup mini EFIS where yours is and a Gma240/GTN650/GMC305/GTX23ES/Remote GDL39 stack during my first condition or when I win the lottery.
I suggest making your checklist for the aircraft from startup-runup-takeoff-landing-shutdown and do some hanger flying flipping switches and running the checklist. Look for things that don't flow or get bumped accidentally.

I wanted my switches in order of my checklist, I used DPDT switches for master/Alt and EBUS/Aux Alt to save space and simplify things.





I made my panel into three sections and 3/4 inch taller to incorporate the modular panel, switches and throttle/mixture controls. With my hand on the throttle I can manipulate the boost pump, trim or flap rocker switch. I positioned my throttle right of center by sitting in my seat, closing my eyes and raising my right hand to find the most comfortable spot for the throttle and positioned the other engine controls around the throttle.


My cagin/seat heat is at the far right, I can just reach them while strapped in.



Good luck, looks like your getting close!

1 more pic I thought would be helpful, I placed the top of my screens reference the screw hole in the rib. I could've moved them slightly higher or about 3/4 higher with minor trimming of the rib and a stubby nutplate.

I found the plugs of the headset sticking out of the jacks mounted by the air vent to sometimes get in the way on entry/exit and finding new leg positions. An alternate idea for headset jacks keeps cords out of the way but still reachable from the seat, I wish I would have incorporated a power port here as well.



I put my power port on the seat pan in between the spar, seems to be a decent spot for me.

Good info crabandy.

• Yep, flaps and trim are on the Infinity stick grips.
• Regarding adding the GTN 650 now instead of using the GTR 200... You're right, big money. And maybe I'm not GA traditional enough, but I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around spending an extra $10,000 to get IFR certified when all one really needs to fly through clouds is a good attitude indicator and an accurate GPS.
• I do have a GTX 23ES and GDL 39R on the way.
• I like your checklist idea!
• How is your Master/Alt wired? Middle = Battery only and Up = Battery & Alternator?
• Oops, I need to locate my seat heat switches too.
• I like your headset jacks... I'm leaning towards placing them near the panel vs putting them between the seats to minimize wire length/interference possibilities.

Thanks!
Russ

"How is your Master/Alt wired? Middle = Battery only and Up = Battery & Alternator?"

Yes, BandC.biz has all kinds of switches to perform your desired function.
I run with master/alt and EBUS/alt in the both on position, the middle position is just to turn off the alt field on the main alt or aux alt if needed. I basically followed the aeroelectric Z-13/8 diagram.

"Regarding adding the GTN 650 now instead of using the GTR 200... You're right, big money. And maybe I'm not GA traditional enough, but I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around spending an extra $10,000 to get IFR certified when all one really needs to fly through clouds is a good attitude indicator and an accurate GPS."

To legally fly IFR at a minimum you'll need a VOR/ILS nav radio in addition to your panel, the GPS on the G3X is just handy situational awareness. You'll be extremely limited on routing and airports/approaches. You could also add an older IFR GPS and have better routing and no precision approach options available but.........if you add up the cost of the comm/VOR nav/ your about halfway to the price of a 650, throw in the older gps you are right in the ballpark.
I've thought about just making mine a VFR machine, but when it comes down to it it's wether it's worth an extra $5000 for the most recent IFR capability on your $80K+ project.

"I like your headset jacks... I'm leaning towards placing them near the panel vs putting them between the seats to minimize wire length/interference possibilities."

While your sitting on your seats in the cockpit running through the checklist, take your headset along and try the various jack locations. Plug/unplug while strapped in, climb in and out with the headset plugged in. You'll find a location you like.

Good luck and have fun!

I'm hoping that by the time I'm back into flying IFR, VOR/DME and TACAN will be a thing of the past.

I don't see where or if it was mentioned...where is everyone sourcing the "seat heater" on/off buttons shown on the post above by Andy?

Thanks,

Mine came with the heated seats I got from Classic Aero

Ken, switches came with the heating elements from www.flyboysaccessories.com. I had to modify the wiring harness to fit my needs, so far they work great! Probably too good for me, 20 OAT and I can stand the low setting for about 30 mins. I'm sure my wife will like the high setting...

Thanks to both of you guys for the responses. I'm logging all this into my wish list as I go along on my build. This will help keep the wife happy who manages the money that makes all this possible.

crabandy said:

Ken, switches came with the heating elements from www.flyboysaccessories.com. I had to modify the wiring harness to fit my needs, so far they work great! Probably too good for me, 20 OAT and I can stand the low setting for about 30 mins. I'm sure my wife will like the high setting...

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