I just received the new molded Plexi glass rear window. I installed the kit window , drilled and tapped the rollover structure. My question is where to start since the new window is not predrilled and i'm concerned about the tapped threads?
Rod ELSA#120162
Thanks Ric. I'll start as soon as the weather warms. I called Vans to order, on packing slip part #F-1277B, cost $390.00 plus $10.00 crating charge and $77.00 ground freight to Ohio.
Strange, I ordered a new window about 4 months back from Vans, $189 and pre drilled.
The new is form molded plexiglass. Old is lexan.
Is Vans saying this is the fix to prevent crazing from fuel spills? If not I'll just buy a sheet of lexan at Home Depot to replace mine.
Looking back at the history of the lexan window I love how we have come full circle on this subject matter.
just a reminder that if you seal the edges and drilled holes, you reduce the fuel crazing hazard.
Some types of polycarbonate sheet have a coating or film on the surface to protect against abrasion and things like gasoline. If the RV-12 rear window is that type (I have heard that it is, but I don't know for certain) than it would be more susceptible to crazing at the edges and holes.I don't quite understand why this would reduce the crazing hazard. I always thought that it is only a matter of the particular Lexan material which does not like to get in touch with mogas/avgas fuel. Does it mean that the Lexan top surface is resistant, but not the machined front side, edges, cuts and holes?
CorrectDoes it mean that the Lexan top surface is resistant, but not the machined front side, edges, cuts and holes?
Correct
I advise to install the window that you have and try not to spill or splash fuel on it. If it becomes crazed or cracked, then replace it. It is not hard to replace unless it is glued in.
Yes, if the window is sealed in place with fuel tank sealant, then it will be harder to remove. The plans did not call for using sealant when I built my plane 5 years ago. I have removed my rear window once and put the same one back in without a problem. (At least it was not any harder than installing it the first time.) Polycarbonate is strong and resists bending.My SLSA rear panel is bolted on and appears to have glue/sealant also. Is this what you're referring to when you infer it might be harder to replace?
Why?Now that I'm aware of the crazing issue I'm thinking of replacing the rear panel with another Lexan
No, but it should be similar to removing the top of the fuel tank with a putty knife.If I do do you have any tips regarding removing the old glue/sealant?
I would follow Van's latest plans. If sealant is not used, the window will be easier to replace. However, it might not be necessary to replace the window if it is protected from gasoline by sealant.If installing a new one would you just bolt it in rather than use any adhesive?
The film used on car bonnets to protect against stone damage etc. It was recommended by one of their retailers. He didn't give me a code or put one on the invoice. I tried to get a 3M product, used by another Oz RV12er, from a different installer but was advised against. He recommended Xpel (although he doesn't sell it) - said it was better quality and clearer, and fuel resistant. I'll let you know how it works out. Hope to fit the new window next week.
I don't quite understand why this would reduce the crazing hazard. I always thought that it is only a matter of the particular Lexan material which does not like to get in touch with mogas/avgas fuel. Does it mean that the Lexan top surface is resistant, but not the machined front side, edges, cuts and holes?
I am asking, because I am debating whether I should order the new Plexi window or stick with the one I received in my kit. I will soon have reached that step to install that window and I better do it only once, but then I do it right.
$390 plus shipping to Europe is then another question.
Thank you for enlightening me on that.
The crazing is NOT related fuel. I have seen crazing on the front edge of the lexan mid-way between holes. I have also seen crazing/cracks emanating close to screw holes that I know with 100% certainty were never exposed to fuel.
I asked Van's if they sold #27 Plexi/Acrylic drill as called out in plans, answer was no, just go to venders..which I did and no one sells a number 27 plastic/acrylic drill...why would they call out use of something no one sells??