This is how I did mine. I ran braided hose from the master cylinders all the way to the wheels. There is a common brake fluid reservoir on the firewall. So far, no problems in 134 hours.
The teflon lines I put in my RV4 started leaking exactly after 5 years. Braided steel from NAPA throughout solved the problem. Install the master cyllinders with the plungers "up" (as shown in the excellent photos by Jerry) so you can bleed them from the wheel cyllinder by pumping fluid in until it overflows from the Master cyllinder. I made a fitting for the top of my master cyllinder that had a small line that fed overboard. Also worked good for inverted flight
Fwd baggage (batt on firewall)Rudder pedals with 1500 hours!
NAPA braided steel lines=no leaks.
If you double click to enlarge this picture (the lower one) you can in fact see quite a bit of pedal detail, but it depends what you want. Yes, the -4 was clearly designed for bow legged cowboys if that is the issue.
I have never felt that the inboard upper brackets were well designed. All the load is placed on bolts that are only supported on one side. Although the system works it does get sloppy with use. I expect that after may hours on put on the airframe this area will require some rebuilding. I have included these extra brackets on my recent rockets. It is a small modification and easily done. The pedals now swing better and more consistently with time in use.
Thanks for posting the picture of your modification, Tom. I just installed the brakes on the rv-4 I am building and will add your mod to my list of work.
I bought an RV-4 with 400 hours on it and shortly after that I was sitting in the hanger and pushed on the right rudder pedal and it went to the firewall. What happened was the cable was attached to the pedal with a clevise pin with a cotter pin through it. Over the years the pilots shoe wore the cotter pin down and it fell out and the pin then fell out. This would have been an accident for sure on a take off and having no right rudder. My A & P had me put a 3/16" bolt in to replace the pin and then I cotter pinned the castle nut on the bolt and, I put the nut and on the outside of the cable and not inside where the shoe would wear on it.