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  #31  
Old 01-16-2018, 06:45 AM
Tooch Tooch is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Amelia, Va
Posts: 164
Default Heat Pad?

Hey Scott,
In the third picture down, what is that orange pad with the 2 wires going to it?
Looks like some kind of heat pad
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  #32  
Old 01-16-2018, 09:09 AM
RV8 Tom RV8 Tom is offline
 
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Location: New lenox , Illinois
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I'm guessing light strip for the panel.
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  #33  
Old 01-16-2018, 09:35 AM
jchang10 jchang10 is offline
 
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Location: San Francisco, CA
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kintsugi

Quote:
As a philosophy, it treats breakage and repair as part of the history of an object, rather than something to disguise. Kintsugi can be seen to have similarities to the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi, an embracing of the flawed or imperfect
The similarities are remarkable! You have elevated an airplane to high Japanese art!
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  #34  
Old 01-17-2018, 12:24 PM
SgtZim SgtZim is offline
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Crittenden, ky
Posts: 137
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[/quote]
However despite all of the above, the main reason I would be very cautious about using the Sikaflex approach is because it may be bonded to Vans powder coating which itself has no known quality control and therefore provides no guarantee of adhesion.[/quote]

Great thread here!

This is the first time I've seen a solid critique of using Sikaflex - guess I need to do more research as I was planning to do the same. Bob, I would guess you used Van's methods / rivets?, or is there a better way available?

Thanks!
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  #35  
Old 01-17-2018, 01:45 PM
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snopercod snopercod is offline
 
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Location: Asheville, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchang10 View Post
"the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi"
Oh, Scott is going to like this! From the Wikipedia entry:
Quote:
Wabi-sabi (侘寂) is a world view centered on the acceptance of transience and imperfection.
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  #36  
Old 01-17-2018, 09:01 PM
Captain Avgas Captain Avgas is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Yes Sgt..... no Sikaflex on mine. Coming up to 300 hours and no problems so far. But it's still early days.

I oversized all my holes and used surgical silicon bushings to allow for thermal movement. All my stainless canopy screws were ground to remove the thread inside the thickness of the canopy. Rivetted canopy holes are all countersunk and have tinnerman washers to distribute the load.

No fluted countersink tools used on my canopy. Solid stone countersink only.

All my holes and all my canopy edges were meticulously finished to avoid microscopic chips and discontinuities.

No cleaners/degreasers/adhesion promoters used on my canopy during fabrication other than mild detergent in water and very conservative use of kerosene (followed by immediate wash with mild detergent in water) if absolutely required.
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