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Looking for feedback on RV-7A Garmin panel design

David Carter

Well Known Member
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Panel+rev8.png


Remote mount equipment:
- GSU 25, GMU 11, GEA 24, GSA 28 (x2), GAD 27, GAD 29
- GTR 20, GTX 45R, GDL 51R
- TCW IBBS 6 Ah
- Artex 345 ELT
- B&C 410H backup alternator & controller
- Vertical Power PPS
- FlyLEDs "The Works" lights

I've been working on this for quite a while now with the guys at Stein Air. I have to say that they are very knowledgeable, helpful, and above all patient!

I attended the Avionics Installation for Experimental Aircraft class last week at AEA HQ in Lee's Summit, MO which really helped solidify my equipment choices and also helped with some of the panel layout decisions. A huge shout out to the the instructor, Levi Self, owner of Midwest Avionics. It was an excellent class & he brought a tremendous amount of experience to the classroom

Please let me know if you see anything you'd suggest changing. I'm especially interested in suggestions on switches & breakers - inclusion, exclusion, placement, labeling, etc.

Please don't waste any electrons telling me I should have gone with a different vendor for any of the avionics. I understand that the choices I've made are likely not the least expensive ones available. I work in the enterprise software business & have a hard-earned appreciation for how difficult, expensive, and frustrating it can be to make systems from different vendors work well together. I get plenty of that at work, and don't want more in my flying.

Thanks in advance for any & all constructive feedback.
 
Looks very nice - the only thing I’d have you think about is that anything you plug in to those USB charge ports is going to have cords hanging down right near the stick.....and over your legs....

Just something to think about.
 
Very nice layout and I'm staying with one manufacture for the reasons you mention.

On the layout...many people put the 650 and autopilot controller in the same spot as yours. But, it seems to me, the autopilot controller should be at the bottom of the stack so when things get exciting, one has easy reach with your throttle hand (easily hit the wings level button). Conversely, the 650 would be best on top of the stack for line of sight.

Interested to hear yours and others opinion on this.

Oh, as an aside.
Laying out the panel on a drawing program is great but try printing out all the components in actual size and laminating them. Nothing beats seeing a real life version of your creation.

Also, is your panel deeper than stock?

panel1.jpg
 
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If it were me, I wouldn't put a starter button on the sticks.

I get that some people like them there so you can hold the stick back and not run out of hands during start, but unless you have a starter arm/disarm switch somewhere on the panel, there's a significant opportunity for accidentally cranking it over.
 
I would suggest putting a space between your light switches and your spares. Makes it easier to see the 'like' functions.

I see you are building a slider. Check for interference between the GTN 650 in particular, but your center stack in general and the F-7108 center forward fuselage rib.
 
Feed back on your Garmin Panel Design

David,

I think your panel looks great. I would suggest a couple of things for you to consider. 1. Relocating the USB ports to the 'edges' of the panel to avoid the dangling cords that Paul talked about would be a good choice. 2. Perhaps move the primer button to the throttle area. 3. You state you have a flap switch on the stick (mine is there and I like it.) So do you really need another flap switch on the panel? 4. If you could move the TOGA switch next to the throttle you wouldn't have to move your hand from the throttle when the time comes to go around. 5. The start switch on the stick may not be the best use of that the switch. Too many things to go wrong versus the benefits to be gained. 6. I think placing one of the spare switches between the pitot heat and fuel boost pump would be useful from a human factors standpoint. 7. The copilot disable switch is an excellent idea (I have that feature and really like it.) However, I would allow the press to talk switch to be full time active and not disabled. 8. Maybe (re)consider the Vertical Power Electronic CB System. I have it and it's excellent. It frees up lots of panel space and provides a lot more information than a popped breaker. The money saved in relays, CB's helps defray some of that cost. Good luck and enjoy the build.
 
Looks very nice - the only thing I?d have you think about is that anything you plug in to those USB charge ports is going to have cords hanging down right near the stick.....and over your legs....

Just something to think about.

I agree with Paul. It was the first thing that caught my eye. I wouldn?t even put them on the panel. Maybe put them on the side, on an armrest or bulkhead.
 
my free 50cts of advice ;-) :

"Radio Stack"
- definitely keep the autopilot panel at the top, it's the most natural and no accident that all serious airplanes (airliners, bizjets etc...) have it up there near the glareshield. you'll rest your hand on the glareshield a lot, while twisting the autopilot knobs. so make sure they are not too far apart and the glareshield also feels comfy. we have "female" velcro on it and that has been working real well, also no reflections in the windscreen when taking pictures!

- consider even moving the GTN one up and the audio panel one slot down.
we have the audio panel in a traditional "top" position, but considering how rarely we have to operate it once all is set, it even could be on a center console or subpanel in terms of priority in my opinion (were there any subpanels). you'll use the GTN a lot more.



Stick:
- i would never ever put the starter button on the stick! just simply too many things that can/could go wrong. accidental engaging during flight control checks or when getting in/out of the cockpit come to mind. or mistakenly engaging on an already running engine. breaking off starter gear teeth and so forth.

- same for the flaps, albeit a little less problematic if you really care for. i would not put this on the stick, or at least only if there is some sensible airspeed protection against deploying flaps at cruise speeds. and even if so, definitely still keep the parallel / separate switch in the panel with a nice flap handle for feel. also, consider that in a go around / touch and go, you will have to do a lot of pitch trimming with your hand on the stick, and then it is more natural and less confusing to operate the flaps with the throttle/right hand. having both trim and flaps nearby on two similar switches on the stick is asking for trouble in my opinion. under stress, chances that you operate the wrong thing are significant.

- consider keeping a spare on the stick for a smoke system retrofit.

- com flipflop and switch definitely keep on the stick, that's one of the very few things i'm missing on our airplane now that i do a lot of formation flying.



Switches:
- consider "fatter"/different style switches for the battery master certainly, and possibly the avionics master and alternator, clearly differentiating them from the light switches and all the other ignition test switchery.

- swap the alternator and avionics master positions. traditional order is battery, alternator together and then avionics master towards the light switches from left to right. i see no benefit in deviating from that de-facto standard. if you want to keep bat and avionics master together, then put alternator somewhere else close to engine stuff.

- put the primer pushbutton somewhere near/above throttle and the engine start pushbutton where the primer is currently. works real well from an engine start "workflow" perspective (assuming left seat is default PIC).

- agreeing with all the comments to relegate the usb chargers to the very corners/remote places. e.g. swap the usb charger on the left with the battery/avionics master positions.

- consider a separate PTT for the right seat in the panel in order to not having to interfere with stick pressures of the pilot flying. (left seat vice versa depending on your missions / use cases)

- another vote for VPX, CB's like that are so old school. otherwise look for an alternate placement.

- keep the TOGA button roughly where it is or even closer to the throttle.

- i suppose the extension below the air vents would be the headset jacks? consider mounting them in the invisible bottom edge of the panel pointing skywards. you then only need a label marking where they are. quite convenient and makes for slicker vent brackets and less stress on headset cables.

- i would check if the three lighting dimmer controls could fit where the passenger warning currently is (and move that further to the left or right). i do not like two "functional" and three lighting dimmers all in one row besides each other. if you have 5 identical rotary knobs side by side it's hard to make out which is which on a glance. having smaller subgroups of controls and switches (e.g. max 3) makes it much more intuitive to know exactly which is which by heart. the oil cooler shutter one would also be better placed somewhere near the ignition stuff for example. cabin heat on the other side closer to the usb chargers or other convenience items.

good luck in finalizing the design!
 
my free 50cts of advice ;-) :

"Radio Stack"
- definitely keep the autopilot panel at the top, it's the most natural and no accident that all serious airplanes (airliners, bizjets etc...) have it up there near the glareshield. you'll rest your hand on the glareshield a lot, while twisting the autopilot knobs.........(clip)

Interesting...in all my flying, I have never had my hand on the glare shield. No offense intended but it must be a big airplane thing...
 
Here's a bunch more comments, and, yes, some of these are duplicates of the posts above -- I wrote my comments before reading the others:

1. Engine controls, left to right, are traditionally carb heat, throttle, mixture;
2. Electrical switches: put some spacing in there. Boost pump on the end is good because you?ll use it a lot; if you fly IFR, strobes and pitot heat will alternate.;
3. Flaps traditionally go on the right side of the power knobs, not the left;
4. Too many things on the stick ? boost pump is already on the panel. Flip flop and comm swap are questionable, as are flaps. Things should earn their way onto the stick ? things that get used frequently or need to be accessed in a hurry. PTT and trim are the only clear winners. Start definitely doesn?t belong there. Anything you do non-standard for personal taste means that you?re establishing bad habit patterns for when you fly a ?standard? airplane, and you?re setting other people up for trouble when they fly this one ? like after you sell it, eventually;
5. I?d swap the GTN650 and the audio panel;
6. Organize your CBs better;
7. Rename com1 to GTN?
8. Add a ?database upload bus? for the GTN650 and the two GDU460s, using their second power connector. That will allow you to turn on just those three when you do your database uploads without draining the battery excessively;
9. I have the autopilot servos on a circuit breaker switch;
10. My plane should, but doesn?t, have the elevator trim circuit breaker switch where it is easily identifiable and easy to pull, just in case;
11. On the left side, move the USB outboard so wires don?t conflict with the battery and alternator switches;
12. Make sure that when you turn the G5 knob, you can?t inadvertently touch anything else important, like the starter (!);
13. Relabel the GAD27 CB, give it a name that doesn?t require Garmin-speak;
14. Move the TOGA button over the throttle so it?s easier to reach it;
15. Don?t install the spare toggle switches. Leave room for them, but don?t install till you need them.

Also, send me your email and I?ll send you my avionics interconnect sheet ? very useful. A wiring diagram is pin to pin, this is serial port to serial port, and also includes all of the settings for each port.

Hope this quick pass is useful, feel free to PM me with any questions.

Ed
 
Wow! Thank you!

I'm overwhelmed by the knowledge & generosity of the VAF community. Thank you all for taking the time to provide your feedback. There's a lot in here to think about. I'll take my time going through it & will post my thoughts & responses after.
 
8. Add a “database upload bus” for the GTN650 and the two GDU460s

Just an FYI, The GTN does not have a dual input power bus, all GTN power/grd pins must be connected to primary power/grd.

I do install battery back-up on power input #2 on the some of the G3X LRU's (GDU ,GEA and GSU) but G3X database updates take a long time and the BU battery supply is not designed for that function.
 
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I do install battery back-up on power input #2 on the some of the G3X LRU's (GDU ,GEA and GSU) but G3X database updates take a long time and the BU battery supply is not designed for that function.

Walt - thanks for the response. What do you recommend for power during database updates? I'm currently planning to have the battery master on, the ALT field off, and maybe pulling CBs for anything else not needed. If not for this use case, I wouldn't even have an off position on the ALT field switch.
 
This is more of an architectural issue than a panel design thing, but I see you have a three-position switch for your alternators. Have you considered an architecture where both alternators are normally on? With that setup, you set your backup to a lower regulated voltage, and it stays offline until the primary fails, at which point it seamlessly picks up load without requiring your intervention.

I initially had similar switchology for the alternator, but over lots of refinements, I decided to go with a single master switch that both closes the master contactor and energizes the alternators, and individual CBs to turn off one or both alternators for testing or other administrative purposes.

Not selling this as a "better" option, just an alternative that I ended up liking personally.
 
I would lose the USB charger and move the boost pump switch to an area by it self. Kind of like flaps, you want to be able to find it by feel.

Most time I fly at night with the lights turned so low I can't read the labels but it is still easy to find the correct switches.
 
Updated draft

Thanks to everyone who provided suggestions. I read them all, and have incorporated many into this draft.

Panel_v11.jpg


I have decided to go ahead & have the engine control bracket cut to accommodate a prop control for a later project to convert from fixed-pitch to constant-speed.

Please let me know if you have any additional feedback on this draft. I feel like this one is very close to complete. It's going to be very scary declaring this "final" & committing this to production. Electrons are easy to change, atoms much less so.
 
So I'll add my two cents on the stick. It's your airplane, do whatever you want, of course.

All that comm stuff on the stick is unnecessary (and likely to be triggered inadvertently). You dial in a frequency on the comm box, and either immediately hit the flip-flop, or do it at some point in the future, but it's a very infrequently done thing on any given flight. Same with swapping between Com1 and Com2. Save the stick buttons for things you do all the time unless there's a really good reason to have it *right there* on the stick. Trim, sure. PTT, obviously. AP D/C, yep...might need to turn it off *right now*. Anything else is not really needed (I did put Smoke on the stick, so I can hit it whenever I want during maneuvering, etc.).

Same for boost pump and flaps. Consider inadvertent activation...flaps deploying at high speed? Boost pump *in*activated accidentally during takeoff or landing?

Just my thoughts...do what you're comfortable with.
 
Avionics Master

I am not sure about the avionics master anymore. Garmin has a nice box (Gad 27) that does not let the avionics brown out during start and provides voltage stabilization. With this box, is there still a need for an avionics master?
 
1. Your ELT switch is directly ahead of the passenger/co-pilot stick AND right next to the panel mounted co-pilot PTT switch. Suggest moving the ELT switch to the right of the breakers and move some of the breakers down where the ELT switch was.
2. I said this once already. Check for interference with your center mount radio stack and the especially the GTN 650 with the F-7108A fwd fuselage rib and the F-7108B fwd fuselage angle.
 
Same for boost pump and flaps. Consider inadvertent activation...flaps deploying at high speed? Boost pump *in*activated accidentally during takeoff or landing?

Thank you for the feedback. I will think about these items. Flaps are controlled by the GAD 27 which will be configured to lock out deployment above Vfe. Boost pump mitigation plan is currently an annunciation on the G3X screen via a discrete input. If it becomes a problem I can always remove or disable the stick switch.
 
I am not sure about the avionics master anymore. Garmin has a nice box (Gad 27) that does not let the avionics brown out during start and provides voltage stabilization. With this box, is there still a need for an avionics master?

From what I?ve been able to gather on VAF & via discussions with multiple installers, there is no need for the avionics master even without the voltage sag protection in the GAD 27. Modern avionics have built-in protection.

In fact, the avionics master just adds another point of failure.

I have a GAD 27 in this design but primarily as flap, trim, and lighting controller.

The two leftmost switches on the bottom are BATTERY MASTER and AVIONICS BATTERY. BATTERY MASTER controls the main battery contractor. AVIONICS BATTERY controls output from the IBBS avionics backup battery to critical pieces of avionics.
 
Thanks!

1. Your ELT switch is directly ahead of the passenger/co-pilot stick AND right next to the panel mounted co-pilot PTT switch. Suggest moving the ELT switch to the right of the breakers and move some of the breakers down where the ELT switch was.
2. I said this once already. Check for interference with your center mount radio stack and the especially the GTN 650 with the F-7108A fwd fuselage rib and the F-7108B fwd fuselage angle.

Thank you for the feedback. I will look into both of these items.
 
First time on the VAF front page!

I just saw that my revised design post on this thread from earlier today made the front page. I?m now feeling guilty for not yet paying 2020 dues. Scurrying off to rectify that now. Worth every penny for the feedback on this thread alone.
 
8 functions on the stick? That's nuts!

It's down to 7 now! Perhaps not as crazy as it sounds when you take into account that 4 of these functions are on just two switches:

- hat switch - pitch trim up/down, com select, com flip/flop
- trigger switch - PTT

My goal is to keep HOTAS as much as is reasonable.
 
This is a very nice panel, congrats.

My thoughts:
- Panel real estate is very precious, so I would not waste it for the USB charger, you already have one in your audio panel and if you need any additions, perhaps between the seats or behind a panel.
- Maybe moving the ELT control closer to you than passenger.
- If you can swap the G5 and SDS, since G5 will be more useable for both sides and gets used more than the SDS.
 
Thanks!

Mehrdad - thanks for the ideas.

- Panel real estate is very precious, so I would not waste it for the USB charger, you already have one in your audio panel and if you need any additions, perhaps between the seats or behind a panel.

I've had a couple of people make this suggestion. Keeping it on the panel simplifies the wiring, but I'm open to alternatives. Does anyone have pictures of their USB chargers in alternate locations?

- Maybe moving the ELT control closer to you than passenger.
- If you can swap the G5 and SDS, since G5 will be more useable for both sides and gets used more than the SDS.

I will look into both of these. The G5/SDS swap is particularly interesting & you are the first to suggest it.
 
My opinion

My opinion is to leave the G5 where it is. If you have ever seen a G5 in real life, I think there is a lot of info in a tight spot. In addition, I will be using it only for a back up. If I am relying on the G5, my flight has gone to the pits, I am stressed, and I am doing things I dont practice often. In this case, the last thing I want to do is to be twisting my head looking at the G5, looking outside, and trying to troubleshoot; I want the G5 in a place that is easier to look and close enough to see all the symbology. JMHO
 
looks really good!

definitely leave the g5 where it is!
move the ELT panel away from the bottom edge of the panel (think knees, belts, tablets, arms and such). suggest moving it more to the right/up of the CBs.
and another thing: i would also move the copilot PTT up near the lighting controls, also for the same reason.

you'll have a great time with your panel!

(i did not think about 3d interference much, that's definitely something you need to check/keep under control!)
 
My opinion is to leave the G5 where it is. If you have ever seen a G5 in real life, I think there is a lot of info in a tight spot. In addition, I will be using it only for a back up. If I am relying on the G5, my flight has gone to the pits, I am stressed, and I am doing things I dont practice often. In this case, the last thing I want to do is to be twisting my head looking at the G5, looking outside, and trying to troubleshoot; I want the G5 in a place that is easier to look and close enough to see all the symbology. JMHO

I agree with this point; I think I'd summarize it by saying that the primary purpose of the G5 is to be looked at, not interacted with, and as such I think it's reasonable to position it for best visibility, rather than for best access.
 
I agree with this point; I think I'd summarize it by saying that the primary purpose of the G5 is to be looked at, not interacted with, and as such I think it's reasonable to position it for best visibility, rather than for best access.

My reason for moving to the middle is that it becomes useful for both left and right seat. If you don't care to make it useful for the right seat, then leave it where it is.
 
I agree with this point; I think I'd summarize it by saying that the primary purpose of the G5 is to be looked at, not interacted with, and as such I think it's reasonable to position it for best visibility, rather than for best access.

My reason for moving to the middle is that it becomes useful for both left and right seat. If you don't care to make it useful for the right seat, then leave it where it is. Either way, this is going to be a gorgeous panel.
 
I would consider moving the SDS CPI to where you have the G5. You might be surprised on how much you will be fiddling with the CPI programmer. As mentioned by previous posters if you place the G5 in the middle it can be utilized from either seat.

I have spent a fair amount of time flying partial panel in simulators utilizing only the standby attitude indicator and standby airspeed indicator in the center of the panel and it doesn't take long at all to feel comfortable with your G5 in this location.


Just a thought. Beautiful panel.. Enjoy

Jim
 
My two favorite secondary functions on the stick are engine start and flaps. I didn't like the sound of them initially but they are super nice and I have grown to really like them. The start switch has an arming button on the panel. The least interesting things on a stick for me are ident, flip flop and com select. I see you don't have Ident so that's good (Ident is the worst thing to have on a control stick). So in your stick selections I like the Trim, PTT, Flaps, Autopilot Disconnect (which is also CWS) and Boost Pump. Mine has Boost Pump and I could take it or leave it. It does have an annunciator light on the panel since there is no visual cues with the push on/off selector on the stick instead of a visible toggle on the panel. If you were to consider one change on your sticks I would add Engine Start with an arming switch on the panel. I get the feeling many of the comments in this thread concerning Start circuit on the stick are coming from people who don't like it before they try it and maybe don't realize the stick button is disabled after start. I was one myself. Now I am a convert to stick switch start. Remember you still have conventional starting on the standard mag switch in case the stick button or arm switch ever failed. In fact I used the conventional ignition switch to start early on until I got comfortable with the airplane and the stick start. Maybe you could use Start in place of Boost Pump or one of the Comm functions. In fact if I ditched anything it would be the comm controls. Flaps on the stick is awesome in the pattern and on roll-out, especially in a tailwheel. You are going to really dig it.

I like your vertical placement of the center stack. The GMC 507 is perfect on top. Good choice. Remember the Garmin autopilot system is more than what most legacy GA autopilots were. It is a true modern flight control system and does so much with headings, altitudes, Vnav and is so capable it is nice to have right on top; even crotchety old hand fliers like me have been won over by its amazing features and I use it all the time. You might find yourself using its controls more during flight than the GTN and Audio Panel which is opposite of the way legacy panels generally worked with basic autopilots.

Swapping the position of the GTN and Audio Panel could go either way but I lean toward the GTN on top but I could be happy the way you show it too.

I like your conventional bus with breaker path. That always just works. We recently had a VPX Pro take down a whole G3X Touch flight deck in flight because of a faulty $5 USB phone cable being plugged in. That doesn't seem like a very robust or tolerant design. That wouldn't have happen with a legacy bus.

Here again you asked for opinions so that's what you got. In the end go with what feels right for you.

And, by the way, very nice panel. Looks like a lot of thought has been given to the final result.

Jim
 
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Jim - thanks for the feedback & the kind words. It's good to hear from people that have actual experience with things that are so far just theory to me.

If you were to consider one change on your sticks I would add Engine Start with an arming switch on the panel. I get the feeling many of the comments in this thread concerning Start circuit on the stick are coming from people who don't like it before they try it and maybe don't realize the stick button is disabled after start. I was one myself. Now I am a convert to stick switch start. Remember you still have conventional starting on the standard mag switch in case the stick button or arm switch ever failed.

Can you elaborate on how you have it wired so that the starter switch is disabled after engine start? That's a major feature of the VPX that I'd like to have, but don't want the huge SPOF that the VPX introduces.

Swapping the position of the GTN and Audio Panel could go either way but I lean toward the GTN on top but I could be happy the way you show it too.

I too would prefer the GTN higher, but think there will be depth issues there with the subpanel & structure. It would be nice to hear from anyone who has done the actual analysis on how high up the GTN can be in an RV-7A slider without major mods.

We recently had a VPX Pro take down a whole G3X Touch flight deck in flight because of a faulty $5 USB phone cable being plugged in. That doesn't seem like a very robust or tolerant design.

Exactly why I didn't go the VPX route.

And, by the way, very nice panel. Looks like a lot of thought has been given to the final result.

Thanks! A lot of thought & a lot of thoughtful input from the good people of VAF.
 
I am not sure about the avionics master anymore. Garmin has a nice box (Gad 27) that does not let the avionics brown out during start and provides voltage stabilization. With this box, is there still a need for an avionics master?
True modern avionics runs on 10-30 volts, have their own regulated power supply which should handle spikes. However ships voltage can drop below 10V on start. Most EFIS has a back up battery that maintains min voltage.

I'm not arguing, but I would say is there any real good reason for not to have an avionics master if so desired? I know where this idea comes from. Other than that opinion if you want an avionics master put it in. The main argument for not having it is the dreaded avionics master switch in-flight failure (which happens never). If some one argues this is a single point failure; I'd point out we are flying a plane with one engine.

However now with all glass, everything electronic, no analog engine gauges, you need your engine gauges on during or right after engine start to observe oil pressure. This is a matter of preference. One might argue you have some electronic smoke in the cockpit. An avionics master might be a quick way to kill that issue. Could you fly day VFR with no instruments (flight or engine) of any kind? I think so, if you remain cool.
 
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Master

So I Understand the argument for an Avionics master. But with an all glass panel, it seems to me the main master has become the de facto avionics master. Maybe instead of an avionics master, we just have the main master (panel) and a lighting master? Doesn't that cover everything?
 
If you must have an avionics master, then have two, one for each half of the panel (left EFIS, COMM #1, right EFIS, COMM #2, etc.).

Consider not wiring power to the panel via series from the battery(s) to the master relay(s) then the avionics master. Run all the stuff associated with the panel via the avionics masters directly from to the battery(s), all the non-panel stuff via the master relay. The master relay(s)? unique function in life is to isolate the battery from the big cables needed to start the engine. Loads I have running from the master relays are things not needed to continue IFR flight.

Carl
 
Jim - thanks for the feedback & the kind words. It's good to hear from people that have actual experience with things that are so far just theory to me.



Can you elaborate on how you have it wired so that the starter switch is disabled after engine start

I also had the start on the stick with an enable/disable right next to the mag/EI switches. I never had any issues with it. I understand the pros and cons of it.
I probably would consider it again. It worked well for me for a long time.
In the first iteration I had a big idiot (start enabled) light on the panel above the EFIS. Was impossible to miss.
When I upgraded to G3XT I wired it to a discrete in the CAS as a red alert. Also impossible to miss.
I toyed with making it more idiot proof. Like some kind of relay that disabled the circuit once the alternator was online for example. But figured it would prob add more complexity than necessary.

One other observation. I had my headset jacks outboard near the vents as well. I always thought that was a PITA. Whenever you?re getting in or out, I found myself hanging the headset on the throttle or down in the footwell somewhere on a hook. Perhaps give some thought to where you will store the headset for short turnarounds.

Richard.
 
T is there any real good reason for not to have an avionics master if so desired?

Yeah...how about "it's not needed"? Adding unnecessary components to a system simply increases the complexity and likelihood of failure. Yes, we have only one engine, because there's no way to put a second one on the plane. But various engine components have backups (mags, fuel pumps).

Modern avionics have no need for an avionics master. Adding one is simply an unnecessary complication. All components can fail, including switches, and if you're switching a relay, now you have a second component that can fail.

I say skip the antiquated avionics master and use the E-buss concept instead if you're worried about flying with no avionics due to some electrical problem.
 
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