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Old 02-22-2011, 03:57 PM
RVbySDI's Avatar
RVbySDI RVbySDI is offline
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Tuttle, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,508

Originally Posted by 704CH View Post
. . .After two years into this project I don't know what I am going to do with myself when it is finished.. Build another I guess. ;-)
My predicament exactly. My first flight was July 2010. Since then I have gone home at night after work (my real job) and "twiddled my thumbs" while watching boring TV. I am going stir crazy this winter after 5 years of building.

Live Long And Prosper! 🖖🏻
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:41 PM
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sbal0906 sbal0906 is offline
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 202

Originally Posted by 704CH View Post
... a simple single twist of the debur bit in every hole....
I took one of those riveting workshops at Oshkosh last year and that's all they said you need to do.

Shamit Bal
Working on empennage but the wing kit has been received.
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:02 AM
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Snowflake Snowflake is offline
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,268

A Vans rep told me at Arlington one year that the factory uses a maroon scotchbrite pad to deburr holes in wing skins. One or two passes along the rivet line, and you have an adequately deburred surface in almost zero time.
Rob Prior
1996 RV-6 "Tweety" C-FRBP (formerly N196RV)
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:01 AM
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mike newall mike newall is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Yorkshire, England
Posts: 1,697

It would be interesting to get some information on Bonanza as to just how they edge prep and de-bur holes prior to assembly.

I recall there was a video about them some time ago - anyone got a link, or a current video ?
"I add a little excitement, a little spice to your lives, and all you do is complain!" - Q

Donated in 2018
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Old 03-14-2011, 07:23 PM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 2

Originally Posted by Marc Bourget View Post
I believe simply sanding the skin will not achieve the desired results because a perfectly square hole edge still constitutes a stress concentration.
Ok, now I am lost as to the reason to de burr. drilling can leave an lip on he edge of the hole that can be felt when you run a finger over the hole. I assumed deburring was to round over the edges of the hole, both sides, to eliminate a stress facture point.

spinning a drill bit in a hole would smooth the inner wall. Running 400 grit over the hole would trin the lip but leave a sharp edge. Which I understand is bad..

so why do we deburr?

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Old 03-14-2011, 07:48 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 9,807

Originally Posted by LENKEARNEY View Post

spinning a drill bit in a hole would smooth the inner wall. Running 400 grit over the hole would trin the lip but leave a sharp edge. Which I understand is bad..

so why do we deburr?

The bit that is spun over the hole is larger than the hole so it removes any protruding burrs. It is not spun in the inner wall...

We deburr so that the sheets will sit flat on each other and that the rivets will sit tightly against the sheets...

Section 3.3.1 here

Most builders do seem to over deburr. The spec call for a 10% of the thickness countersink only. A mere 0.0025 inch on 0.025 sheet....
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ

Last edited by az_gila : 03-14-2011 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 04-12-2011, 01:19 PM
koda2 koda2 is offline
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: West Texas
Posts: 265
Default I agree

To me a slight twist with an oversize sharp drill bit, applied with very little pressure, gives a better and quicker debur. Maybe its because the included angle is 118 degrees instead of 100 for standard countersink tool??

I was taught to debur slightly before coin dimpling so as to eliminate any cracking from the dimpling procedure.

For tight spots with 4 rivets I use these:

Haven't tried the 3/32 size. They debur both sides at once, but you have to be very careful or they will easily take away too much material.

Dave A.
6A build
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Old 04-21-2011, 07:37 PM
seattleworm seattleworm is offline
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 117

I felt de-burring is a little overdone in most cases. The purpose of de-burring is to avoid sheet metal separation during riveting, not to create a rounded or chamferred hole edge. Actually, a square edge is preferred. Also, de-burring is only necessary on the exit end of the hole. with this in mind, and use whatever method you see appropriate for de-burring purpose, time spent on de-burring can be much less.
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Old 08-31-2011, 04:34 PM
morristull morristull is offline
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Posts: 14
Default scrap carpet is best help for deburring

Save yourself a lot of time with deburring by using a piece of scrap carpet placed on your bench and a battery screwdriver with Avery adapter for a spigoted countersink bit in the end, lay your part on the carpet, a quick light wizz with the battery screwdriver and the countersink bit nicely centered in the hole with the spigot of the countersink bit nestling through in the carpet. Perfect deburring every time and 5 minutes to do a whole wing panel. Flip it over and do the other side. With practice you can also use a battery drill but keep the weight light and do not over do the deburring.
I save my hole deburring for evening when I try to be quiet for the neighbours.
I have spent a lot of time as an A & P mechanic fixing cracks from rivet holes that were not deburred in customer aircraft that I am determined to not have cracks in my RV7.
A deburred hole has a much higher tolerance to stress and cracking than a square hole that has been deburred by rubbing a piece of scothbrite over it. You do not find square fishing rods as they would would break very quickly when flexed and the same applies by putting a small radius on rivet holes achiving the same increased crack tolerance. cheers Morris.
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Old 08-31-2011, 04:49 PM
mcencula mcencula is offline
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Delaware, OH
Posts: 430

Originally Posted by Marc Bourget View Post

Having experienced crack formation upon dimpling (guess where my opinion on the necessity of deburring with a drill was reinforced?) with holes I forgot to debur, (and never experienced with holes I did debur), I'm an advocate of deburring with a drill. I use a dedicated, new drill, that I installed in a file handle. No weight, simply the weight of the drill, lightly spun by hand - about 1-1/2 turns.


Onward and upward
Marc Bourget
I also experienced dimples which cracked during riveting on a friend's airplane due to the fact that he forgot to debut some holes.
Mike Cencula
RV-7A (fuselage)
Betcha my pile-o-scrap is bigger than your pile-o-scrap.
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