cjensen
Well Known Member
Thanks Peter! You going to be at the show next week? Be great to see ya!
Oh don't worry...I'm sure there's SOMETHING else out there that can take the place of the engine fiasco!
Thanks Darwin!
Van's Air Force
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Show us the status of your 7/7A project!
- Thread starter DeltaRomeo
- Start date
Oh don't worry...I'm sure there's SOMETHING else out there that can take the place of the engine fiasco!
Thanks Darwin!
RV7Factory
Chief Obfuscation Officer
Darwin, call me, I've got plenty of material for you.
Chad and I (and others) are camping together again this year, so give it two weeks and I sure I will have even newer material to share.
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cjensen
Well Known Member
I can pretty much guarantee it!!Darwin, call me, I've got plenty of material for you.
Nah...it's older than last week...after I paint it, it will resemble a Subaru though!Chad that doesn't look like a Suburu. Oh yea
cjensen
Well Known Member
Peter.Fruehling
Well Known Member
Peter.Fruehling
Well Known Member
Hey Chad -
I'm fling the -6 in on either Thursday night or Friday morning and camping through the weekend. When are you coming in? It will be great to see you!
- Peter
194WE
Member
Congrats on the engine
Chad,
Please stop by the emergency aircraft repair facility at Oshkosh when you are there, my brother Mike and I both volunteer there and would like to meet you. Mike flew our 9A to BMI when you saw it there. We offer free shade, a place to sit down and a cold drink.
Chad,
Please stop by the emergency aircraft repair facility at Oshkosh when you are there, my brother Mike and I both volunteer there and would like to meet you. Mike flew our 9A to BMI when you saw it there. We offer free shade, a place to sit down and a cold drink.
Peter.Fruehling
Well Known Member
Oops... Sorry about the repost! Talk to you on Friday Chad!
- Peter
- Peter
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petehowell
Well Known Member
Bernie Moves to the Hangar!
Bernie Weiss moved to the hangar today!
See the Grin.......
Bernie Weiss moved to the hangar today!
See the Grin.......
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Peter.Fruehling
Well Known Member
YEAH BABY!!! ...can't believe it's happening!
Wings on tomorrow eh Bernie?!?
- Peter
Wings on tomorrow eh Bernie?!?
- Peter
N520TX
Well Known Member
Finally
Well .. it's only been 4 yrs since first flight, and I'm finally at the point that I can say she's "done". With the application of some paint, the wheel pants on N520TX are finally installed and she looks like a complete aircraft!
For some reason, the pants/farings have been the psychological barrier that I just couldn't break through. It all came down to just deciding to do it - albeit slowly, at times showing little progress. Last year at LOE was the motivating factor really - being the only RV on the ramp with naked legs ...
Well .. it's only been 4 yrs since first flight, and I'm finally at the point that I can say she's "done". With the application of some paint, the wheel pants on N520TX are finally installed and she looks like a complete aircraft!
For some reason, the pants/farings have been the psychological barrier that I just couldn't break through. It all came down to just deciding to do it - albeit slowly, at times showing little progress. Last year at LOE was the motivating factor really - being the only RV on the ramp with naked legs ...
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AltonD
Well Known Member
Can you give me some contact details?
Jon Clements
Well Known Member
Sometimes you gotta stop looking at it and just do it....couldnt agree more.
Today started like this.....
[/URL][/IMG]
and ended like this.....
[/URL][/IMG]
Mick and I were focused today and 5 hours later the cowls were cut and fitted (with clecos).
Hard to explain but when you get your cowls on it looks like the real deal and you feel like you are almost there......even though you know you are not !
Looking forward to tomorrow.
Today started like this.....
and ended like this.....
Mick and I were focused today and 5 hours later the cowls were cut and fitted (with clecos).
Hard to explain but when you get your cowls on it looks like the real deal and you feel like you are almost there......even though you know you are not !
Looking forward to tomorrow.
cytoxin
Well Known Member
speaking of cowlings,i finally painted my cowling and spinner yesterday. turned out alright. will adjust my technique a bit and march forward. man i cant wait to get these parts out of my shop and to the hangar. it will be double fun for me. because i get the plane done and get my shop back. joy joy joy
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Bobby Potts, Tuscaloosa Interior and Paint
Bobby's contact info:
Bobby Potts
Tuscaloosa Paint and Interior
(205) 333-3116
Nice guy. Good Luck
Bill Near
Bobby's contact info:
Bobby Potts
Tuscaloosa Paint and Interior
(205) 333-3116
Nice guy. Good Luck
Bill Near
Brantel
Well Known Member
Status Brantel
Got several things done on the canopy this weekend.
Installed the rear latch fingers, do yourself a favor and just remove the rollbar to make this a no stress event. I started not to but decided what the heck and it took all the stress out of this job:
I glued the front of my canopy down to the canopy skin with some black urethane window sealant from Autozone. I did this to give the front of the canopy a perfectly consistent surface to support itself on. After riveting and screwing the glass to the frame, I had some gaps under the plexi in the front. I just calked this stuff from the outside and then took my finger and made a fillet. On the inside I got a nice rolled bead all around where the plexi meets the skin. Really made it look finished from the inside. Next is the flox then the glass in this area.
Finished all the screws all around the frame. I kinda like the techi look of the hardware contrasting with the paint.
Installed the rear safety latch/handle. This was super easy to do and it works great.
Trimmed, fit, edge finished, drilled, countersunk, drilled and tapped the rollbar and temp. attached the rear window. Have a little more sanding to open up the gap between the front and rear so it will close all the way but for the most part, all the plexi cutting is officially done! So far no cracks!
Also got my carb in the mail that I bought from another RV'er all the way in Washington state.
Got several things done on the canopy this weekend.
Installed the rear latch fingers, do yourself a favor and just remove the rollbar to make this a no stress event. I started not to but decided what the heck and it took all the stress out of this job:
I glued the front of my canopy down to the canopy skin with some black urethane window sealant from Autozone. I did this to give the front of the canopy a perfectly consistent surface to support itself on. After riveting and screwing the glass to the frame, I had some gaps under the plexi in the front. I just calked this stuff from the outside and then took my finger and made a fillet. On the inside I got a nice rolled bead all around where the plexi meets the skin. Really made it look finished from the inside. Next is the flox then the glass in this area.
Finished all the screws all around the frame. I kinda like the techi look of the hardware contrasting with the paint.
Installed the rear safety latch/handle. This was super easy to do and it works great.
Trimmed, fit, edge finished, drilled, countersunk, drilled and tapped the rollbar and temp. attached the rear window. Have a little more sanding to open up the gap between the front and rear so it will close all the way but for the most part, all the plexi cutting is officially done! So far no cracks!
Also got my carb in the mail that I bought from another RV'er all the way in Washington state.
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RudiGreyling
Well Known Member
Looking good, that rubber seal along the sides is the same I used ;-)
DaX
Well Known Member
Sometimes you gotta stop looking at it and just do it. Today was that day, even though it was only 7am.
Jeff, you cut your canopy in the wrong spot!
Juuuuust kidding - don't want to start THAT war in here.
Brantel
Well Known Member
Status Brantel
This canopy work seems to take forever. I think I have more time in this so far than I had in both fuel tanks. Nothing too hard, just time consuming! And I have not even done the fiberglass in front yet
I will call everything done except the front fairing and maybe a targa strip. I do not want to perm. mount the rear window yet so that will wait. I still need to paint the rollbar and the rollbar to bulkhead brace and the underside of the aft top skin. I am waiting to rivet the aft top skin on for a little longer.
I installed a handle mostly copied from Jeff... Thanks Jeff!
I did not put one on the co-pilot side because several people warned me that that is asking for trouble and for the most part I would rather be the one doing the opening and closing.
I also added these Delrin guides very similar to Jeff's....Thanks Jeff!
On the co-pilot side for whatever reason I had to add a shim behind it because it was comming up a little short in thickness and it was possible for the latch finger to sit on top/front of it instead of slide down the side like it is suppose to. Once I added this spacer, there is no way to get the finger to catch on the top/front.
These things really seem like they will do a good job to help protect the corners of the plexi and the paint around the latch finger holes and to stop paint from being scraped off the rollbar.
Jeff says that there is no way that you could damage the interface areas with these. Well almost, if you really were not paying attention to what you were doing, you could still do some damage but not nearly as easy as if you did not have these guides.
Everyone says the whole thing will stiffen up more once the fiberglass is on.... we shall see
This canopy work seems to take forever. I think I have more time in this so far than I had in both fuel tanks. Nothing too hard, just time consuming! And I have not even done the fiberglass in front yet
I will call everything done except the front fairing and maybe a targa strip. I do not want to perm. mount the rear window yet so that will wait. I still need to paint the rollbar and the rollbar to bulkhead brace and the underside of the aft top skin. I am waiting to rivet the aft top skin on for a little longer.
I installed a handle mostly copied from Jeff... Thanks Jeff!
I did not put one on the co-pilot side because several people warned me that that is asking for trouble and for the most part I would rather be the one doing the opening and closing.
I also added these Delrin guides very similar to Jeff's....Thanks Jeff!
On the co-pilot side for whatever reason I had to add a shim behind it because it was comming up a little short in thickness and it was possible for the latch finger to sit on top/front of it instead of slide down the side like it is suppose to. Once I added this spacer, there is no way to get the finger to catch on the top/front.
These things really seem like they will do a good job to help protect the corners of the plexi and the paint around the latch finger holes and to stop paint from being scraped off the rollbar.
Jeff says that there is no way that you could damage the interface areas with these. Well almost, if you really were not paying attention to what you were doing, you could still do some damage but not nearly as easy as if you did not have these guides.
Everyone says the whole thing will stiffen up more once the fiberglass is on.... we shall see
Mark Burns
Well Known Member
I've gotten a good start on the painting in the last few days
I'm using Dupont Imron and it's working really well.
I still have to paint the cowl, wings, tail surfaces, etc...etc.
But, the fuselage is about ready to go to the airport!
It's got to go before I can do any more painting in the garage.
I was so pleased with the paint that I had trouble sleeping last night.
The scheme is going to favor the T-34 Mentor.
More to come in a few weeks..
Mark
I'm using Dupont Imron and it's working really well.
I still have to paint the cowl, wings, tail surfaces, etc...etc.
But, the fuselage is about ready to go to the airport!
It's got to go before I can do any more painting in the garage.
I was so pleased with the paint that I had trouble sleeping last night.
The scheme is going to favor the T-34 Mentor.
More to come in a few weeks..
Mark
Mark Burns
Well Known Member
William,
That's the way it was shot. Of course the camera angle and lighting makes it look really good too.
It's not a perfect paint job. I have a few small runs and some orange peel here and there but overall I'm very happy so far.
As I'm sure everyone knows, it's a fine line between getting enough paint on so it will flow out smooth but not so much that it will run or sag.
Having proper lighting while painting is the key. And it's not easy. Sometimes you just have to stop and move the lights.
The paint shops earn their money!
Mark
cytoxin
Well Known Member
cytoxin
Well Known Member
as of last night.
well i buffed the v/s and let me warn you, dont paint thinking "im gonna buff out all my mistakes." no matter how gentle you are, the microfinishing compound promtly removes the paint from the o/d of the rivet heads. you cant really see it because it looks like gloss.
anywho here is a pic of the h/s v/s in psuedo installed.
i went to the local paint store and bought a new d/a sander . mine was overdue for the trash. i also got a hookit 1 pad with interface pad. so i dont screw up stuff with it. its good for ametuers.
the plastic that is 5 years old on the 12 of this month came off like it did 5 years ago. just for a data point my shop is insulated. here i have d/a'ed the rudder with 500 paper. man what a time saver. i went back and worked the rivets with the maroon scotchbrite.,,,,,yes all of them
the last picture you will see of the dx 1791. its a step, you do it to all the alu. i may however change to alodine and metal etch for a couple of reasons. this stuff is not very popular and i think i got an old batch. there was a lot of **** in the first coat of it. i think when i stirred it up i got into some hardened **** in the bottom of the can. i am taking it back tommorow. make sure if you use it you have them open the can and put a stick to the bottom of the can after shaking it up to insure yours is good to go.
i put on two medium coates and really poured on the last . thats why the parts are horizontal.
here are the finished parts. they are ok some better than others. we'll see tommorow how the gloss holds out.
well i buffed the v/s and let me warn you, dont paint thinking "im gonna buff out all my mistakes." no matter how gentle you are, the microfinishing compound promtly removes the paint from the o/d of the rivet heads. you cant really see it because it looks like gloss.
anywho here is a pic of the h/s v/s in psuedo installed.
i went to the local paint store and bought a new d/a sander . mine was overdue for the trash. i also got a hookit 1 pad with interface pad. so i dont screw up stuff with it. its good for ametuers.
the plastic that is 5 years old on the 12 of this month came off like it did 5 years ago. just for a data point my shop is insulated. here i have d/a'ed the rudder with 500 paper. man what a time saver. i went back and worked the rivets with the maroon scotchbrite.,,,,,yes all of them
the last picture you will see of the dx 1791. its a step, you do it to all the alu. i may however change to alodine and metal etch for a couple of reasons. this stuff is not very popular and i think i got an old batch. there was a lot of **** in the first coat of it. i think when i stirred it up i got into some hardened **** in the bottom of the can. i am taking it back tommorow. make sure if you use it you have them open the can and put a stick to the bottom of the can after shaking it up to insure yours is good to go.
i put on two medium coates and really poured on the last . thats why the parts are horizontal.
here are the finished parts. they are ok some better than others. we'll see tommorow how the gloss holds out.
Mark Burns
Well Known Member
Nice!
William,
Looks real good! I can see the reflection of your house in the vertical stabilizer.
I studied how you had your tail surfaces hanging. I haven't painted mine yet.
Did you swing them up horizontal right after you shot them?
I know what you're going through
But, we're saving about 5 grand!
Keep posting your progress please.
Mark
William,
Looks real good! I can see the reflection of your house in the vertical stabilizer.
I studied how you had your tail surfaces hanging. I haven't painted mine yet.
Did you swing them up horizontal right after you shot them?
I know what you're going through
But, we're saving about 5 grand!
Keep posting your progress please.
Mark
cytoxin
Well Known Member
Mark, thanks for raising the bar. After seeing yours the other day i came to the realization i had to try harder.William,
Looks real good! I can see the reflection of your house in the vertical stabilizer.
I studied how you had your tail surfaces hanging. I haven't painted mine yet.
Did you swing them up horizontal right after you shot them?
I know what you're going through
But, we're saving about 5 grand!
Keep posting your progress please.
Mark
you are correct in the fact that good lighting is key. (thats the understatement of the year
) i have four 8 footers in a sliver room and guess what? i need some along the flor or on the wall. i'll try to correct that before my next session. ive painted several cars and things but settled for rubbing and buiffing if things didnt go well. then i actually got to a point of letting my friends that did it for a living shoot the color for me. NONE of them were remotely interested in doing a plane. they claim its like painting 4 cars. now i believe them.Because they are balanced they want to hang in trail. i put a weight in the left one where the trim servo goes and it hung down. when i was ready to let it lay horizontal i removed the weight, a two pound bucking bar.
I had tape wraped around the rod end bearings to protect them from paint but it ended up helping me get them to lay horizontal without to much trouble.
The control surface will to go horizontal and then over, hitting the hanger. So i just tied a third coat hanger to it at the pushrod horn and then wraped it around the rod end hanger so i could adjust it.
The rudder i hung by the rod end bearings. As i finished painting it i used a third hanger to hold it through the strobe hole. These things are so light they will get to swinging if you dont find a way to hold onto them. Got to be able to paint with both hands.
which i cant do very well.mine is far from perfect but its getting better with each session. and ive seen alot worse. not that ugly planes make mine nicer but that my place will be with several others that know the value of professionals.
i thought 5500.00 would have been a fair price but i wasnt going any higher. i will still save several thousand dollars. ;-)
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SteelMike
Well Known Member
Hey guys, just thought I would go ahead and jump in - I didn't want y'all to think that I was faking this whole thing!
I've been working for a couple of months now. Here's a quick blow-by-blow to get caught up...
After much consternation, I finally got the shop set up. Built the two custom EA tables (they're taller than normal so they won't be back-breakers). Notice the evidence of a Home Depot shopping spree(s).
Started with the Vertical Stabilizer...
Had no major problems until I had to do a tricky (for a beginner) rivet. Had to replace a spar, so I did some practice...
... and went on to the elevator (Actually, I made a pit stop to start on the HS Stab, but I immediately drilled a hole to #12 that was supposed to go to #21 - Doh! That piece had to go on order, again, and so I went on to the elevator). It went together pretty smoothly...
Then is was back to finish the VS after my parts arrived...
Somewhere in there, my nice tungsten bucking bar split in half (what's up with that!?)
Then back to the HS. It went from this...
I've been working for a couple of months now. Here's a quick blow-by-blow to get caught up...
After much consternation, I finally got the shop set up. Built the two custom EA tables (they're taller than normal so they won't be back-breakers). Notice the evidence of a Home Depot shopping spree(s).
Started with the Vertical Stabilizer...
Had no major problems until I had to do a tricky (for a beginner) rivet. Had to replace a spar, so I did some practice...
... and went on to the elevator (Actually, I made a pit stop to start on the HS Stab, but I immediately drilled a hole to #12 that was supposed to go to #21 - Doh! That piece had to go on order, again, and so I went on to the elevator). It went together pretty smoothly...
Then is was back to finish the VS after my parts arrived...
Somewhere in there, my nice tungsten bucking bar split in half (what's up with that!?)
Then back to the HS. It went from this...
SteelMike
Well Known Member
To this... pretty quickly.
And soon enough, my ceiling flew...
And just for the DAR's eventual reference, yes, it's me!! I didn't know if the respirator was necessary, but my lungs were starting to feel a little like swiss cheese so I figured it couldn't hurt...
So as it stands, VS, HS, and Right elevator are done. Rudder and Left elevator are at about 75% (no pics, my camera has fallen on hard times). Wings are on order for end-of-september shipment.
And soon enough, my ceiling flew...
And just for the DAR's eventual reference, yes, it's me!! I didn't know if the respirator was necessary, but my lungs were starting to feel a little like swiss cheese so I figured it couldn't hurt...
So as it stands, VS, HS, and Right elevator are done. Rudder and Left elevator are at about 75% (no pics, my camera has fallen on hard times). Wings are on order for end-of-september shipment.
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cytoxin
Well Known Member
well i have learned a bunch this week. mostly paints have changed alot since the last time i shot color. which hasnt been but a couple of years.
the PPG dx1791 self etching wash primer is **** in my opinion. i got another gallon and it exhibited the same results. this is what i found after the paint store got me this gallon from charlotte n.c. they shook it for 10 minutes or more and i opened it when i got home. it was like this. i shook it for about 20 minutes with my new H/F paint shaker. it seemed all well. when i shot it, it was like it was full of trash. seedy they call it. the paint is just over a year old. PPG says it has a shelf life of 7 years unopened and 1 year opened.
i then had to load up the paint to hide it and i got solvent pop from ****.
i sanded all that out and sprayed again. you guessed it. solvent pop again. this was not nearly as bad so i opted to sand and buff. it turned out really well. i am moving on. as far as solvent pop i have been told by some very good painters that you cant even use the temp reducer i was using. the paint shop guy even told me that. why did he sell it to me ???? dunno. 40 bucks down the pipe. the pro's said shoot a slower thinner than called for and to not lay it on to wet. i'll try it again. but next plane/car i paint wont be PPG.
yours truly
after buffing out. this worked waaaay better than it used to which is good because i am not the best painter. i am getting better and the curve is going straight up. i am pleased with the results so far but it has been somewhat frustrating to say the least. i have never had problems of any sort before and ive been shooting ppg acrylic urethanes and high solids polyurethanes for abot 17 years on the hobbie level. (one every year or so.two in a good year)
the PPG dx1791 self etching wash primer is **** in my opinion. i got another gallon and it exhibited the same results. this is what i found after the paint store got me this gallon from charlotte n.c. they shook it for 10 minutes or more and i opened it when i got home. it was like this. i shook it for about 20 minutes with my new H/F paint shaker. it seemed all well. when i shot it, it was like it was full of trash. seedy they call it. the paint is just over a year old. PPG says it has a shelf life of 7 years unopened and 1 year opened.
i then had to load up the paint to hide it and i got solvent pop from ****.
i sanded all that out and sprayed again. you guessed it. solvent pop again. this was not nearly as bad so i opted to sand and buff. it turned out really well. i am moving on. as far as solvent pop i have been told by some very good painters that you cant even use the temp reducer i was using. the paint shop guy even told me that. why did he sell it to me ???? dunno. 40 bucks down the pipe. the pro's said shoot a slower thinner than called for and to not lay it on to wet. i'll try it again. but next plane/car i paint wont be PPG.
yours truly
after buffing out. this worked waaaay better than it used to which is good because i am not the best painter. i am getting better and the curve is going straight up. i am pleased with the results so far but it has been somewhat frustrating to say the least. i have never had problems of any sort before and ive been shooting ppg acrylic urethanes and high solids polyurethanes for abot 17 years on the hobbie level. (one every year or so.two in a good year)
Brantel
Well Known Member
Status Brantel On the Gear and Rolling!
Engine mount hung, on the gear and rolling! Ready for that engine!
This may have to go in favor of a better one but for now it is on there!
and to see if I could still open the canopy enough to get in, a nice shot of the interior. The end result is that it does not open all the way but almost! I can still get in/out no problem.
Engine mount hung, on the gear and rolling! Ready for that engine!
This may have to go in favor of a better one but for now it is on there!
and to see if I could still open the canopy enough to get in, a nice shot of the interior. The end result is that it does not open all the way but almost! I can still get in/out no problem.
hydroguy2
Well Known Member
canopy next
Tip-up frame is ready and I have no choice but it's time to tackle the canopy. I've read a few hours of posts and blogs, but welcome any words of wisdom regarding this process.
now if the clouds would go away, I won't have to start the wood stove to heat the shop.
EDIT: No need for the clouds and rain to go away. Just grab your double halogen shop lights and heat that baby up.
63*F in the shop this morning. 86*F under the canopy when I started and 105 when I finished. I would say "no sweat" but that would be false. 100*F+fatguy=plenty of sweat, but worth it.
used Vans supplied cutting disc in my Mac air drill. running it slow worked best for me. no problemo
Tip-up frame is ready and I have no choice but it's time to tackle the canopy. I've read a few hours of posts and blogs, but welcome any words of wisdom regarding this process.
now if the clouds would go away, I won't have to start the wood stove to heat the shop.
EDIT: No need for the clouds and rain to go away. Just grab your double halogen shop lights and heat that baby up.
63*F in the shop this morning. 86*F under the canopy when I started and 105 when I finished. I would say "no sweat" but that would be false. 100*F+fatguy=plenty of sweat, but worth it.
used Vans supplied cutting disc in my Mac air drill. running it slow worked best for me. no problemo
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Seperation Anxiety
I thought this day would never happen.....N32WW is officially at the paint shop.
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/4595/dscf0009jg1.jpg
You should have seen the people point and stare as it rolled down the road.
I thought this day would never happen.....N32WW is officially at the paint shop.
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/4595/dscf0009jg1.jpg
You should have seen the people point and stare as it rolled down the road.
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Mark Burns
Well Known Member
The photos tell the story!!
