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  #11  
Old 06-17-2005, 07:08 PM
PaigeHoffart PaigeHoffart is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 374
Unhappy Cracked Elevator Horn

I too had a cracked elevator horn. After a few emails with pictures, and some phone calls, Van's sent me a new one free of charge.
I realize steel is much less likely to crack due to stress risers when compared to aluminum, but it seems like every steel part I received had
serious burrs which were simply powder coated over. One would hope there would be a good QC process before powder coating, but the
evidence doesn't point to it.

Paige
RV-8A
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  #12  
Old 06-17-2005, 08:33 PM
hngrflyr hngrflyr is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: eugene, oregon
Posts: 206
Default

If Vans doesn't debur and otherwise properly finish steel parts, they surely should not powder coat them. If I am expected to rework a part to make it ready for installation, I'll be pretty upset if I have to remove the powder coat before reworking it.

Bob S
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  #13  
Old 06-18-2005, 08:51 AM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: St. Paul, MN.
Posts: 4,719
Default

Is that a crack in the steel? Or in the powdercoat?
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St. Paul, MN.
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  #14  
Old 06-20-2005, 04:53 AM
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swisseagle swisseagle is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: 20km outside of Zurich, Switzerland
Posts: 413
Angry Crack in Elevatorhorns

Hello All

It is a crack in the STEEL! As you can see, the area around the crack has a little bit to less powdercoat, this was the reason that I could see the crack. Otherwise the powdercoat would cover it.

Others get replacement for free??? I had to pay for it!

On each steel part, the powdercoar would cover the edge much better when they deburr it before they start coating. So the rust will start soon or later on the edge.

Dominik
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  #15  
Old 08-28-2009, 11:13 AM
thelynns thelynns is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 80
Default Mine are bent as well.

Just like the original post of this thread, my rudder pedal weldment bars had the same amount of bow or more. Just over 3/16” at each end on both bars. You could tell using a straight edged yard stick that the bow was concentrated at weld spots. I put the bars between 2 saw houses and sat on them. My 165 lb was not enough so I bounced really hard about 10 times. I think they are acceptable now. Hope I did not compromise them by bouncing on them that hard. Seems like TedTheFlyer and I got the only bowed ones based on this thread and my enquirers. TedTheFlyer, did you get new ones or did you bounce on them like I did.

Really, no one else have this issue?

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  #16  
Old 08-28-2009, 11:40 AM
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Jamie Jamie is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,294
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by swisseagle View Post
It is a crack in the STEEL! As you can see, the area around the crack has a little bit to less powdercoat, this was the reason that I could see the crack. Otherwise the powdercoat would cover it.

Others get replacement for free??? I had to pay for it!
You didn't have to pay for a replacement. That part was completely serviceable...all it needed was a little filing and some touch up paint on it.

Yes, I can understand you being upset about a part not being absolutely perfect when it comes from Van's, but cut them some slack...the kit is still far superior to anything else on the market, especially considering the value (cost) and volume of production they churn out.

There is going to be some work to be done on your part to get the airplane in the air.
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  #17  
Old 08-28-2009, 02:37 PM
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DanH DanH is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 7,855
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<<.....or did you bounce on them like I did.>>

Pretty good illustration of how easy this is to fix.
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  #18  
Old 08-28-2009, 03:43 PM
C-GRVT C-GRVT is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 278
Default mine too, and easily adjusted

The rudder bars on my 6A were not true, and caused the centre bearing block to flex slightly when the rudder bars were rotated.
I regard this (and checking for trueness) as just a normal part of the build process.
To straighten them, I drew a straight line on a flat bench top parallel and near to one edge of the bench top, placed the rudder bar on the straight line, drilled two blocks of wood into the bench top at either end of the rudder bar between the bar and the edge of the bench topto hold the bar in place. I tightened a clamp between the edge of the bench and the rudder bar to exert pressure where needed to take out the slight bend in the bar. You can check progress against the line you drew and against the bench top itself as you rotate the rudder bar.
Took all of about 20 minutes, a lot less effort and bother than packaging them up and sending them back to Van's (and that never occurred to me, and I wouldn't have thought it fair to expect Van's to guarantee an absolutely straight bar anyway).
Also, the rudder bar does not have to be absolutely straight, only the three mounting points have to be exactly aligned, which may be a bit easier to achieve, depending on how the bar has bent/warped.
Have you got to the canopy frame yet?
Bill Brooks
Ottawa, Canada
RV-6A finishing kit
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  #19  
Old 08-28-2009, 06:54 PM
thelynns thelynns is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 80
Default Measured again.

Bill Brooks, your quote of “the rudder bar does not have to be absolutely straight, only the three mounting points have to be exactly aligned” I think you are right on, and it made me check again for straightness.

I think the wrong way to check for straightness is in the first picture. Picture 2 shows how I measured it again. I could spin the pipe 360 degrees and look for a varying gap between the pipe and perpendicular straight edge. Measuring this way I could see that I still had a full 1/16” variance.

To straighten, I again did the ‘jumped up and bounce’ right over the part of the bar that has no powder coat. The stool underneath allowed me to jump up higher. After a few iterations I can now spin my bars 360 degrees and see no variance.

NOT THIS WAY


YES THIS WAY
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  #20  
Old 08-28-2009, 07:33 PM
David-aviator David-aviator is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Chesterfield, Missouri
Posts: 4,489
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thelynns View Post
Just like the original post of this thread, my rudder pedal weldment bars had the same amount of bow or more. Just over 3/16” at each end on both bars. You could tell using a straight edged yard stick that the bow was concentrated at weld spots. I put the bars between 2 saw houses and sat on them. My 165 lb was not enough so I bounced really hard about 10 times. I think they are acceptable now. Hope I did not compromise them by bouncing on them that hard. Seems like TedTheFlyer and I got the only bowed ones based on this thread and my enquirers. TedTheFlyer, did you get new ones or did you bounce on them like I did.

Really, no one else have this issue?
I do not recall checking to see how straight the rudder bars were. They were installed in 2003 as per instructions and have been working just fine ever since.

Seems like since the bar pipe does not rotate much more than 20 or 30 degrees when rudder pedals are moved, a slight bow one way or another is not going to be noticeable when flying the airplane or any other time, except on a bench before installation. The rudder pedals won't hang up, at least there is no such thing happening here, as they are from the factory.

Yes, it would be nice if everything were absolutely perfect, straight and within .00001" of a CAD drawing but for sure no one would be buying a basic kit for a bit over $20,000.

(With regard to accuracy where it matters, I was most impressed when installing the wings to the center section spar, the incidence was within .1 of a degree from one side to the other. Where it matters, these airplanes are true.)

Give Van's a break, they are producing an excellent series of kits for the cost. There's nothing like on the planet.
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