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Cowl slot width for nose gear

az_gila

az_gila

Well Known Member
Posting in the -7 area but I'm building a -6A

How wide is the cowl slot for the -7A nose gear leg?

The -6 plans show it at 1 5/16 wide, but that seems very narrow when you are sliding the lower cowl up over the nose gear fairing.

I know the -7A has different parts in this area, but is the slot width still called out as 1.313?

I haven't fabricated the mounting brackets yet, so it would be simple to make new parts for a wider slot. I'm just wondering if anyone else has done this.
 
Yes, with a wider slot, it is much easier to remove / install the lower cowl. And if you will have the nose gear leg fairing installed while removing the cowl, then even more clearance is desired in width and length in front of the gear leg.

The upper nose gear leg fairing will cosmetically hide any slot width that you come up with.
 
I don't remember the width that I used, but it was maybe a 1/4" wider than the gear leg. In the end, it didn't really matter, as I used a gear leg fairing that covers it up. I pull that fairing off before removing the lower cowl.

Larry
 
lr172 said:
I don't remember the width that I used, but it was maybe a 1/4" wider than the gear leg. In the end, it didn't really matter, as I used a gear leg fairing that covers it up. I pull that fairing off before removing the lower cowl.

Larry
Click to expand...

Thanks... I just looked at everything with the strut fairing in place and decided to remake the support stuff with a slot that is 1/4 wider on each side and a little longer towards the front. Just like you say.

I have a Fairings Inc part and it will cover everything up nicely.
 
az_gila said:
Thanks... I just looked at everything with the strut fairing in place and decided to remake the support stuff with a slot that is 1/4 wider on each side and a little longer towards the front. Just like you say.

I have a Fairings Inc part and it will cover everything up nicely.
Click to expand...

Once you get the baffling finished and the spinner bulkhead on, you'll find that the slot needs to be extended forward some to get the cowl off easily. Just have the fairing marked on the cowl so you know how far you can go. When test fitting, be sure to do so with the NG leg fairing on.

Larry
 
lr172 said:
Once you get the baffling finished and the spinner bulkhead on, you'll find that the slot needs to be extended forward some to get the cowl off easily. Just have the fairing marked on the cowl so you know how far you can go. When test fitting, be sure to do so with the NG leg fairing on.

Larry
Click to expand...

Thanks... that is the next step, and I just marked the fairing location today.

Just 2 days ago was the first time I actually installed the upper and lower cowls, and the two side hinge pins all of the way in, on my own.

And not many bad words were expended. After a while and a bit of fiddling things actually seem to fit better. :)
 
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I just did this a couple months ago, I am using the SJ cowl, air filter, and Sky bolt fasteners, the lower cowl was easy to install and remove until..............the prop went on and the hose that connects the intake ring to the air filter housing, and the lower center bracket and plate. Now there are a few more colorful words mentioned when installing the lower, like mentioned above, need several inches in front of the gear leg, look at your upper fairing to see how far forward you can go, the more the better.
 
bret said:
I just did this a couple months ago, I am using the SJ cowl, air filter, and Sky bolt fasteners, the lower cowl was easy to install and remove until..............the prop went on and the hose that connects the intake ring to the air filter housing, and the lower center bracket and plate. Now there are a few more colorful words mentioned when installing the lower, like mentioned above, need several inches in front of the gear leg, look at your upper fairing to see how far forward you can go, the more the better.
Click to expand...

Is the -7A nose gear slot in the cowl spec'd at 1 5/16 like the -6A?
 
I forget what the plans call for but mine is 1 5/8 it is all covered by the sandwich plate at the rear and the upper intersection fairing.
 
The forward part of the opening can be larger as previously stated since the intersection fairing covers it, but look at your blueprints for the sandwich plate Brett was referring to. If you make he rear 6 inches or so wider, you may run in to trouble later. A 6 I am working on now doesn't have that plate, but I'm not sure the plans call out for it or not.

If you PM me your email I can get you pics first thing in the morning. Have a 6 & 7 I can send you pics of.
 
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