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Push pull cable end help?

digidocs

Well Known Member
I think I understand how this type of push pull cable end works:

cableendb1.jpg


...but I'm not sure I've cracked this one yet. How do you assemble it?
05-16100.jpg


And the real question is, which do you recommend for the end of a parking brake cable?

Thanks,
David
 
I used this one on my 10. You may have to use extra washers-----you want to get as much of the slop out of the shank as you can without binding.

cableendb1.jpg
 
Second connector would be...

Bolt through hole in arm you are going to control
Washer on the bolt next
Wire from cable control through hole
Second washer
First nut tightened up against washer pinching control cable in the hole
Second nut as a jam nut against the first
 
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B-Nut Better

The first is a standard B-Nut and the cable is held by the set screw.

The second pinches the cable between the head/washer and a washer/nut and is locked by a 2nd nut.

My trouble with the second is that it doesn't swivel. Unless the travel of the control arm and the push/pull are aligned, it won't function without binding. This seems to be for most installations, particularly my parking break and my heater. If there were room for a nut/washer between the head and the hole I think it would work.

I went with B-Nuts.

Hope this helps.

George
 
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The second type shown will pivot freely. The wire from the control cable is captured from only the right side (in the picture). If the washer from the left side (up against the control arm) is pinched against the cable wire then a thinner washer is needed. I just replaced my heater control box with a SS one and used the second cable keeper with good success. It pivots nicely.
Not saying one is better than the other, I just used what I had.
 
Just resurrecting an old thread. I purchased a B-Nut from Aircraft Spruce (part #: 05-16245). When I tighten the screw it does not tighten enough to trap the cable (cabin heat cable .05" diameter). The replacement part sent was exactly the same. When I tighten the screw, without a cable being inserted I can't see that the end of the tightening screw even appears in the cable hole. It's like the screw hole hasn't been tapped deep enough. Anyone else experienced this problem.
 
The second one, by far, has my vote. But I do it kinda' backwards. First, it is just a bolt, no need to place a special order. Second, I treat it as non-adjustable and don't use a hole in the middle, but wrap the cable wire around the bolt a turn or 2 and use a jamb nut to clamp the bolt solid to the pivoting bracket part. The wire wrap then pivots around the bolt. 2000hrs seems to indicate this works pretty well.
 
I had the exact same experience as mikemalone. I snapped my 3/32 in. allen wrench off in the set screw, rendering the whole thing useless as I could not get it out. AS&S sent me a new one and the replacement did the job. I also feel that the nut was not tapped far enough to allow the set screw to trap the wire. A few thousandths of an inch made all the difference. Mine is used on the heater door on the firewall.
 
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