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Page 7-03 step 1

P

pietermk

Well Known Member
Hello all,

I have a short question on the test fitting of the rudder on the vertical stabilizer. I put the washers on as described on page 7-03 step 1 and when looking at the hinges I still see some opening. I am wondering if I should fill the space with additional washers.

Click the link below to see the picture

5jrQxz1fVRig-_AOB1bipoehijotkjg00kuu9IsBAds


the space is where the third washer sits

5jrQxz1fVRig-_AOB1bipoehijotkjg00kuu9IsBAds


Somehow I don't seem to be able to embed pictures in my messages.

thank you all

Peter
 
bedankt!!

I used the link option on the right and copied that link but it always seems to post a link instead of embedding the image
 
Yes, you will need to add thick and thin washers to take up the slack.

I see day light between the bearing retainer and the outer brackets of the rudder bracket. Not sure that is a good thing.
 
Geico266 said:
Yes, you will need to add thick and thin washers to take up the slack.

I see day light between the bearing retainer and the outer brackets of the rudder bracket. Not sure that is a good thing.
Click to expand...

Thanks Larry, I was wondering the same, but the explanation did not mention anything about taking out the slack but it made sense

Peter
 
Rudder bearings

The goal is to fill the empty spaces so that the parts do not get bent when the bolt is tightened.
Joe
 
Geico266 said:
I see day light between the bearing retainer and the outer brackets of the rudder bracket. Not sure that is a good thing.
Click to expand...

Peter,

I agree with Larry. That bearing assembly does not have a good tight fit. I went back to your pictures of when you made up that assembly at: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displ...V12&project=1934&category=0&log=122292&row=19

The heads of two of the rivets do not appear to be down flush with the surface of the bracket.

I myself had a lot of trouble getting these parts right. The rivets want to expand in between the layers of metal, forcing the pieces apart. You need to find a way to really clamp them tight while you rivet. Also, make sure the bearing is perfectly seated in the openings in the retainer bracket.

Check my log starting here and go forward.

I also had a similar problem with the AST horns. See my log here.

Good luck! John
 
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I had a similar problem getting solid riveted assemblies tight. What i do now is slip a small piece of tygon plastic tubing over the shank of the rivet before it is squeezed. Then when the squeezer is operated, the push on the tubing squeezes the parts together before the die touches the rivet.

See photos at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/littlej...705623/detail/

I also added whatever thick and thin washers were necessary to take up the slack.

Good Luck.
 
BigJohn said:
Peter,

I agree with Larry. That bearing assembly does not have a good tight fit. I went back to your pictures of when you made up that assembly at: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displ...V12&project=1934&category=0&log=122292&row=19

The heads of two of the rivets do not appear to be down flush with the surface of the bracket.


Good luck! John
Click to expand...

thanks John for the feedback, I just looked at my hinges again I think I know which rivets you are talking about. I took some new pictures and wonder if redoing the rivets would make a difference. here is why and I could be completely wrong :) the part of the hinge where the rivets are is flush it is the part where the bearing is is where it flanges out a bit. I can squeeze the the end near the bearing and get it a little closer.

DSCN1717.JPG


DSCN1718.JPG


DSCN1720.JPG


John am I correct in saying that this is something you noticed wile looking at my build log, this would not change the spacing in relation the the rudder hinges right?


looking at the picture from my build log which 2 rivets are it John? Counting from left to right rivet 2 & 3?

DSCN1555.JPG



I have the problem more now on page 7-03 where I have to rivet the small ribs R1203 to the rudder spar R1202. I have already drilled out 7 rivets for the 4 that need to be placed. They bend one way or expand between the spar and the rib
thanks so much

Peter
 
LittleJoeA said:
I had a similar problem getting solid riveted assemblies tight. What i do now is slip a small piece of tygon plastic tubing over the shank of the rivet before it is squeezed. Then when the squeezer is operated, the push on the tubing squeezes the parts together before the die touches the rivet.

See photos at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/littlej...705623/detail/

I also added whatever thick and thin washers were necessary to take up the slack.

Good Luck.
Click to expand...

Joe the link did not work for me but can you tell me where you got the plastic tubing. I really need it now that I am working on the rudder, the rivets to connect the R1203 ribs to the rudder spar R1202 drive me nuts :D

thanks

Peter
 
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Page 6-02

pietermk said:
Hello all,

I have a short question on the test fitting of the rudder on the vertical stabilizer. I put the washers on as described on page 7-03 step 1 and when looking at the hinges I still see some opening. I am wondering if I should fill the space with additional washers.

Click the link below to see the picture

5jrQxz1fVRig-_AOB1bipoehijotkjg00kuu9IsBAds


the space is where the third washer sits

5jrQxz1fVRig-_AOB1bipoehijotkjg00kuu9IsBAds


Somehow I don't seem to be able to embed pictures in my messages.

thank you all

Peter
Click to expand...

I put a straightedge on the contacting face and found a slight bend outward. Make sure that this surface is flat or has a slight bend inward.
See www.joesrv12.com
Page 06.02
This worked fine for me.
 
joedallas said:
I put a straightedge on the contacting face and found a slight bend outward. Make sure that this surface is flat or has a slight bend inward.
See www.joesrv12.com
Page 06.02
This worked fine for me.
Click to expand...

thanks Joe, you build log is one of the logs I view before doing the next step, that and the build DVD. Your log is very clear and helpful

thanks
 
When using clamps I was able to get a tight fit. This worked for the rudder bearings and for the flaperon brackets.


14-02%20step%2010Z.JPG
 
Another way to solve this problem is to rivet the brackets in a three step method. 1) Squeeze the rivet just enough to get it tight in the hole. 2) Put a hollow spacer over the shop end of the rivet, a 10x32 nut works well, and squeeze again. This will drive the rivet home and take any space out of the brackets/plates. 3) Remove the spacer and set the rivet per specs. It sounds like it takes a lot of time but it is quite quick.
 
krazydoc - I'm finally getting started on my kit and have zero experience with any of this so I need to make sure I understand your step #2. I am picturing that in step 2 you are putting no pressure on the shop head end of the rivet and that the pressure is just on the hollow spacer??

Thanks in advance.
 
John,
In Step 2) the pressure is applied to the manufactures head and the spacer. The idea is to drive the rivet home and close up any space between the parts.
Sorry for the delay with my reply. I started the kit in December and broke my hip in late February. That has slowed me down a lot. There is almost more metal in ME than in the RV !
 
LittleJoeA said:
Peter,

Try this link

http://www.flickr.com/photos/littlejoeya/sets/72157625650705623/detail/

I was able to purchase the tygon tubing from the local hardware store. It was fifty scnts a foot or so.

This method really works with thin parts that are hard to get tight.
Click to expand...

Joe,

I have not been able to find Tygon tubing yet, I tried several places. I got some vinyl tube from home Depot which I will test soon. I am waiting for my air drills I ordered at Harbor freight. I find it hard to drill the rivets out using a regular cordless drill so later this week I will let you know.

Peter
 
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