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  #181  
Old 11-04-2017, 09:03 AM
Saville's Avatar
Saville Saville is offline
 
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Location: KBVY Massachusetts
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I did some flight testing of Steve's canopy bow mirror holder design. Here are the results:


1) It is superior to the ones I made out of PVC in that I can rotate the mirror up farther than I can with the PVC frame.

2) It's design also lends itself to not having to rotate the mirror up and down in order to open and close the canopy.

So for those two reasons,this design is superior.

Issues:

1) I cannot rotate the mirror up enough so I took about 1/8" off of the shorter part of the arc.

2) The gripping ring does not grip the canopy bow firmly enough. It's a little loose. It won't keep the mirror in a position I set it in. So I added some one sided sticky felt pad to the inside of the ring. It helped but I would recommend some design mods (see below).

3) The mirror clamps are slightly larger than 1/8" so the 1/8" thick mirror is not gripped firmly. I put a couple of layers of masking tape on the surface of the grip and that held the mirror firmly. The mirror could be sized wider such that it's held in place by the edges but I don't think that's optimal. I'd like to have the space a little closer to 1/8".


I would recommend:

1) Making the grip ring slightly smaller so that it grips the canopy bow firmly.

2) Make the grip ring thicker. Even if you glue a pad on the inside to make it tighter, the ring flexes too easily and doesn't grip the canopy bow hard enough.

3) Making the mirror clamp gap closer to 1/8" so that what holds the mirror in place is not just the edges but the front/back surface of the mirror itself.

Still, it's a superior design and a really great use of 3D printing.
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  #182  
Old 11-04-2017, 11:44 AM
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Champ Champ is offline
 
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I accidentally broke off my transponder antenna while cleaning the belly of my 8. How about a fairing over the elcheapo mast to make it look like one of the expensive streamlined ones and give it a little more protection. Not sure if it wouldn’t hurt the performance of the antenna though.
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  #183  
Old 11-04-2017, 12:25 PM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is online now
 
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another guy told me he broke his transponder antenna while cleaning the belly. it didn't break on the first bend but rather when he tried to straighten it.
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Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 700+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.

see Amanda Melton for www.rvplasticparts.com
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  #184  
Old 11-04-2017, 12:58 PM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is online now
 
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saville View Post
I did some flight testing of Steve's canopy bow mirror holder design. Here are the results:


1) It is superior to the ones I made out of PVC in that I can rotate the mirror up farther than I can with the PVC frame.

2) It's design also lends itself to not having to rotate the mirror up and down in order to open and close the canopy.

So for those two reasons,this design is superior.

Issues:

1) I cannot rotate the mirror up enough so I took about 1/8" off of the shorter part of the arc.

2) The gripping ring does not grip the canopy bow firmly enough. It's a little loose. It won't keep the mirror in a position I set it in. So I added some one sided sticky felt pad to the inside of the ring. It helped but I would recommend some design mods (see below).

3) The mirror clamps are slightly larger than 1/8" so the 1/8" thick mirror is not gripped firmly. I put a couple of layers of masking tape on the surface of the grip and that held the mirror firmly. The mirror could be sized wider such that it's held in place by the edges but I don't think that's optimal. I'd like to have the space a little closer to 1/8".


I would recommend:

1) Making the grip ring slightly smaller so that it grips the canopy bow firmly.

2) Make the grip ring thicker. Even if you glue a pad on the inside to make it tighter, the ring flexes too easily and doesn't grip the canopy bow hard enough.

3) Making the mirror clamp gap closer to 1/8" so that what holds the mirror in place is not just the edges but the front/back surface of the mirror itself.

Still, it's a superior design and a really great use of 3D printing.
1) grip ring is adjusted to have tighter clamp.
2) grip ring thickness is increased.
3) mirror fit depends on the mirror maker and mirror mat'l thickness.

I have several of these out for eval at HAO and a couple guys like the small ones with the adjustable mirrors best. More eval to do.


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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 700+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.

see Amanda Melton for www.rvplasticparts.com
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  #185  
Old 11-04-2017, 01:12 PM
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Tim_AZ Tim_AZ is offline
 
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While not quite as affordable for printing at home, due to the cost of SLS printers, I've had success with Nytek 1200CF https://www.stratasysdirect.com/wp-c...ifications.pdf for aerodynamic fairings and structural use at work. It is tough, prints at high resolution, is dimensionally stable, and can take extreme heat. It also sands and paints extremely well. We've had some unfinished parts up close to Mach 2 and other than some minor ablation they held up just fine.
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  #186  
Old 11-04-2017, 01:33 PM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim_AZ View Post
While not quite as affordable for printing at home, due to the cost of SLS printers, I've had success with Nytek 1200CF https://www.stratasysdirect.com/wp-c...ifications.pdf for aerodynamic fairings and structural use at work. It is tough, prints at high resolution, is dimensionally stable, and can take extreme heat. It also sands and paints extremely well. We've had some unfinished parts up close to Mach 2 and other than some minor ablation they held up just fine.
good reference. twice as strong as ABS. I should be able to hit Mach 2 with these flap bracket fairings. watch out Blackbird, I'll be sneaking up on you.
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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 700+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.

see Amanda Melton for www.rvplasticparts.com

Last edited by Steve Melton : 11-04-2017 at 01:35 PM.
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  #187  
Old 11-04-2017, 02:24 PM
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humptybump humptybump is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim_AZ View Post
I've had success with Nytek 1200CF for aerodynamic fairings and structural use at work. It is tough, prints at high resolution, is dimensionally stable, and can take extreme heat.
Just an FYI ...

When FDM printing with any of the carbon fiber reinforced materials, its important to use a [stainless] steel nozzle as the carbon will wear standard nozzles.
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  #188  
Old 11-04-2017, 02:35 PM
dtw_rv6 dtw_rv6 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Martinsville, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Champ View Post
I accidentally broke off my transponder antenna while cleaning the belly of my 8. How about a fairing over the elcheapo mast to make it look like one of the expensive streamlined ones and give it a little more protection. Not sure if it wouldn’t hurt the performance of the antenna though.
Like this?



I just finished my first test flight with this over my TEDs ADSB antenna.
Printed in Polycarbonate. No test data for Mach 2 yet.

Last edited by dtw_rv6 : 11-04-2017 at 06:03 PM.
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  #189  
Old 11-04-2017, 02:50 PM
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Tim_AZ Tim_AZ is offline
 
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Location: Tucson, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humptybump View Post
Just an FYI ...

When FDM printing with any of the carbon fiber reinforced materials, its important to use a [stainless] steel nozzle as the carbon will wear standard nozzles.
While true for those type of printers the material I referenced is a powder for selective laser sintering.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xorCFh-9EWA
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  #190  
Old 11-04-2017, 04:13 PM
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humptybump humptybump is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim_AZ View Post
While true for those type of printers the material I referenced is a powder for selective laser sintering.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xorCFh-9EWA
I did catch that you have an SLS at work (which is why I was specific to mention the filament based FDM printers most builders might encounter at home).
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