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Dealing with skin gap at Tie Down Blocks

lr172

Well Known Member
My QB wings have about 1/8" gap between the skin and the bottom edge of the long threaded block that the tie tie down ring screw into. If I don't deal with it, the skin will deform (probably not permanently) when I tighten a lock nut. I would like to get something in there to bridge the gap.

I am thinking JB weld or epoxy and have some ideas on doing it without it getting into the threads. However, I am curious if someone in the group has come up with a good idea for dealing with this.

Larry
 
The trick I used for my 7 is to screw in a set screw to limit the depth of penetration of the tiedown ring shaft. This way, you can get the tiedown ring flang (if you have one) right up against the skin.
 
My QB wings have about 1/8" gap between the skin and the bottom edge of the long threaded block that the tie tie down ring screw into. If I don't deal with it, the skin will deform (probably not permanently) when I tighten a lock nut. I would like to get something in there to bridge the gap.

I am thinking JB weld or epoxy and have some ideas on doing it without it getting into the threads. However, I am curious if someone in the group has come up with a good idea for dealing with this.

Larry

Use a dremel to enlarge the hole in the skin. You'll get a structurally better connection that way and won't deform the skin.
 
Put a sleeve on the tiedown so that it acts as a stop. Another simple way is to use JB weld on a few threads next to the ring.

If doing a slow build wing move the tie down block lower so it is flush on the inside of the wing. Add a rubber washer on the tiedown ring to protect the paint.

Carl
 
Tie down bracket

If the wing is still open, replace the brackets and install them so they are flush. That's what I did.
Cleveland sells a kit with three brackets and rings. Brackets are pre-tapped.
 
If it were me, I'd do the same trick, but with an aluminum 'shim'. Cut to fit, drill slightly oversize hole, slide into place, screw in the tiedown, and proseal or RTV around the edges to the skin and between the shim and the anchor extrusion.

Hint: You can shave a 1/4" thick slab of aluminum to whatever thickness you need on a table saw with a carbide blade. (Goggles & gloves advised...)
 
Tie-Down Shim

This shim was riveted onto the skin before she skin was riveted to the spar.
However, I think that skin is already riveted on the QB wings, so another method of getting the spacer in there would be needed.

i-Zp5pqpj-S.jpg
 
I opened up the skin and made a new tiedown fitting, relocated so that there was no gap.

A bit labor intensive but it solved the problem.

For those of you who haven't riveted the leading edge together yet, this is most possible when the skin is clecoed on but not yet riveted.

Dave
 
Thanks for all of the ideas. The wings are QB and I have no desire to peel back the skin at this point. A few ideas seem good, but require a permanent mounting. I had considered keeping the rings in the tool bag except for when needed, like I don the 6.

Do most just permanently install them? Anyone know the drag penalty for doing so?

Larry
 
Tie down rings

Thanks for all of the ideas. The wings are QB and I have no desire to peel back the skin at this point. A few ideas seem good, but require a permanent mounting. I had considered keeping the rings in the tool bag except for when needed, like I don the 6.

Do most just permanently install them? Anyone know the drag penalty for doing so?

Larry

I'm installing 3/8-16 nutplates in my floors for the tie down rings to serve double duty.
Yes, extra work but saves weight. They will be removed and relocated to the wings for tie down when needed. Otherwise, they will be baggage tie downs.
 
SNIP. I had considered keeping the rings in the tool bag except for when needed, like I don the 6.

Do most just permanently install them? Anyone know the drag penalty for doing so?

Larry


No rings in the breeze for me! Worth at least 5 knots!

Carl
 
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