Van's Air Force
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200hp oil cooler
- Thread starter tmbg
- Start date
David-aviator
Well Known Member
Ian,
For an excellent education on oil coolers, read the 2 articles on the subject in Kitplanes, July and August issues.
There is a ton of information on this forum. I have been researching it and will give you the benefit of what seems to be the consensus with a 200 hp engine. The smaller Vans cooler won't provide adequate cooling year 'round. The larger cooler would but the problem is where to mount it, it will not fit on the baffle and will crowd any firewall except with the 10.
Both these coolers are draw cup, are relatively cheap and work ok, especially in places like Oregon where RV's come from. But if you want and need consistent cooling no matter the OAT, a bar and plate cooler will do the job, even one the same size as Vans small unit. Vans does not offer a bar and plate unit perhaps because they do not believe the extra cooling capability is necessary and they cost a lot more.
There also is an issue of too much cooling. I had a SW8403 in the 7 and its cost was a waste of money so I am trying to come with a cooler that will be just a bit better than the Vans Niagra unit and not cost $600.
For an excellent education on oil coolers, read the 2 articles on the subject in Kitplanes, July and August issues.
There is a ton of information on this forum. I have been researching it and will give you the benefit of what seems to be the consensus with a 200 hp engine. The smaller Vans cooler won't provide adequate cooling year 'round. The larger cooler would but the problem is where to mount it, it will not fit on the baffle and will crowd any firewall except with the 10.
Both these coolers are draw cup, are relatively cheap and work ok, especially in places like Oregon where RV's come from. But if you want and need consistent cooling no matter the OAT, a bar and plate cooler will do the job, even one the same size as Vans small unit. Vans does not offer a bar and plate unit perhaps because they do not believe the extra cooling capability is necessary and they cost a lot more.
There also is an issue of too much cooling. I had a SW8403 in the 7 and its cost was a waste of money so I am trying to come with a cooler that will be just a bit better than the Vans Niagra unit and not cost $600.
Toobuilder
Well Known Member
I'm quickly coming to the realization that the fixed geometry of the standard Vans cowl is creating problems we have to solve through other means. Sure, the standard vans cowl is simple, but is buying an oversize oil cooler a good trade?
I find the standard "small" cooler to work fine for a 200 HP in cruise even with OAT's substantially higher than standard. Like many, climb is the killer. So that indicates there is plenty of cooling capacity, just not enough airflow down low and slow.
I find the standard "small" cooler to work fine for a 200 HP in cruise even with OAT's substantially higher than standard. Like many, climb is the killer. So that indicates there is plenty of cooling capacity, just not enough airflow down low and slow.
tmbg
Well Known Member
I'm going to be running the Sam James cowl.
I note that Spruce carries positech coolers, and they're considerably less expensive than even the Van's coolers. I've read numerous reports on here that their performance is underwhelming
I'm currently waiting on my baffle kit to arrive. I'm not doing a Van's FWF kit, as everything I'm doing is just a little bit different than Van's standard.
I note that Spruce carries positech coolers, and they're considerably less expensive than even the Van's coolers. I've read numerous reports on here that their performance is underwhelming
I'm currently waiting on my baffle kit to arrive. I'm not doing a Van's FWF kit, as everything I'm doing is just a little bit different than Van's standard.
scsmith
Well Known Member
firewall mount and features
There are previous posts with pictures if you search back, but I used Van's bigger 13-row cooler, mounted to the firewall on a plenum box similar to what Van sells for the RV-10, but the angle was adjusted to match the angle of my engine mount.
It is supplied with a 3.5" scat tube off of the back of baffle for cylinder #3. I have a throttle plate/butterfly valve in the flange connection at the baffle, for cockpit-adjustable cooler flow control.
Works great.
There are previous posts with pictures if you search back, but I used Van's bigger 13-row cooler, mounted to the firewall on a plenum box similar to what Van sells for the RV-10, but the angle was adjusted to match the angle of my engine mount.
It is supplied with a 3.5" scat tube off of the back of baffle for cylinder #3. I have a throttle plate/butterfly valve in the flange connection at the baffle, for cockpit-adjustable cooler flow control.
Works great.
Neal@F14
Well Known Member
I note that Spruce carries positech coolers, and they're considerably less expensive than even the Van's coolers. I've read numerous reports on here that their performance is underwhelming
Aero Classic coolers are nearly as inexpensive to buy as the Positechs, and IMHO have the cooling efficiency slightly better than NDM (stock Vans), but not as good as the super-expensive SW cooler. They are drawn cup design, just like the NDMs, and seem to be a very good value in an oil cooler. You can get them in 7, 9, 10 and 13 row sizes for the $250-300 price range. Spruce sells them, and you can also get them from the source... PacificOilCoolers.com. Aero Classic is also now making some new SW-style copies as well, for significant savings over the SW/Meggitt prices.
tmbg
Well Known Member
David-aviator
Well Known Member
Yes they are.
Neal@F14
Well Known Member
Aircraft Spruce's webpage has a good photo of them that you can zoom in and see the way they're made: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/heseriesoilcooler.php
C-FAH Q
Well Known Member
11 row cooler on baffle behind #4 cylinder. temps never more than 205. You could hang the plane off this mount ! My friend Tom Martin made this for me
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Oil cooler install for 200hp Lycoming with horizontal induction
I'm building a -7 and have just installed the motor mount. I'm in Texas, so I think using the 13-row oil cooler will be to my benefit. I have also purchased the baffle form Van's for mounting to the firewall. Does anybody have any pictures of their installation to help me out with exactly where to position this part? Many thanks...
I'm building a -7 and have just installed the motor mount. I'm in Texas, so I think using the 13-row oil cooler will be to my benefit. I have also purchased the baffle form Van's for mounting to the firewall. Does anybody have any pictures of their installation to help me out with exactly where to position this part? Many thanks...
Champ
Well Known Member
Like Steve's only with 3.5" to 4" fiberglass transition on top of cooler plenum. 4" butterfly, RV-10 plenum box as is. IO375. Not flying yet. Glad that Steve says this arrangement works great.
Bur830,
If you are saying that you bought the Van's kit to mount the cooler to the firewall I have some warnings for you.
The transition from 3" SCAT to the cooler has very poor airflow. I ended up removing the kit transition and built a better transition from fiberglass. The one in this picture only uses a 3" portion of the cooler instead of the whole face.
Don't use the Van's one.
Second due to the engine mount interference I mounted my SCAT tube connection too low on the baffle and I pick up cyl. head heat. This keeps my oil temps a little higher than I like.
If you are saying that you bought the Van's kit to mount the cooler to the firewall I have some warnings for you.
The transition from 3" SCAT to the cooler has very poor airflow. I ended up removing the kit transition and built a better transition from fiberglass. The one in this picture only uses a 3" portion of the cooler instead of the whole face.
Don't use the Van's one.
Second due to the engine mount interference I mounted my SCAT tube connection too low on the baffle and I pick up cyl. head heat. This keeps my oil temps a little higher than I like.
Bubblehead
Well Known Member
Here's a link to some ducting and plenums that look like they would work well. I am thinking about going to a bigger oil cooler on the firewall although even in Texas in the summer I rarely get above 210F.
http://www.airflow-systems.com/oil-cooler-air-plenums/
They also sell brackets for firewall mounting.
http://www.airflow-systems.com/oil-cooler-brackets/
http://www.airflow-systems.com/oil-cooler-air-plenums/
They also sell brackets for firewall mounting.
http://www.airflow-systems.com/oil-cooler-brackets/
I have the standard 7 row cooler on an IO-360 running 10.5:1 compression (230hp) on a standard Vans cowl with a plenum. Mounted on the baffles, per plans.
I can't say I've ever seen the temps get into the 200's, even on long full power climbs 190's is as hot as it gets (climbing at 100 kts) consistently from NV desert in 100+ degree temps, to sea level climbs to 14K'.
Throttle wide open, leaned peak to -50, oil barely breaks 180 and on a lot of days I have to close the shutter to even get it to 180.
Only time it does seem to get warm (maintain 190's) is when I'm <6.5 quarts and flying straight and level at less than 110kts. Engine does not cruising slow.
YMMV
I can't say I've ever seen the temps get into the 200's, even on long full power climbs 190's is as hot as it gets (climbing at 100 kts) consistently from NV desert in 100+ degree temps, to sea level climbs to 14K'.
Throttle wide open, leaned peak to -50, oil barely breaks 180 and on a lot of days I have to close the shutter to even get it to 180.
Only time it does seem to get warm (maintain 190's) is when I'm <6.5 quarts and flying straight and level at less than 110kts. Engine does not cruising slow.
YMMV
