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  #1  
Old 04-15-2019, 05:15 PM
Mickrat Mickrat is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Lowell, IN
Posts: 4
Default Leading Edge Check

Hello all,

This is my first post, been reading this site for months though.
Iíve recently started an RV-14A empennage kit. I wanted to check with you regarding the bend on my rudder leading edge.



Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 04-15-2019, 05:18 PM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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Itís fine. Youíll never see it once itís mounted to the VS.
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  #3  
Old 04-15-2019, 05:19 PM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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The goal here is to make sure the skin doesn't pull on the part underneath and develop a stress point. You want it to go out a bit and then start the curve. It took me more than a few attempts to get it just right.

What are you using to do the "roll"?
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  #4  
Old 04-15-2019, 05:54 PM
Mickrat Mickrat is offline
 
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Location: Lowell, IN
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I used this 3/4” EMT. Drilled a 1/4” hole in the end for my screwdriver. It seems if I had a smaller radius I wouldn’t have enough material to reach the other edge.
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  #5  
Old 04-16-2019, 12:01 AM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkervaski View Post
The goal here is to make sure the skin doesn't pull on the part underneath and develop a stress point. You want it to go out a bit and then start the curve. It took me more than a few attempts to get it just right.

What are you using to do the "roll"?
This is correct. The proper technique is to insure your Spar is being held down securely then press down hard on the skin with the bar and pull away as you roll. Try to keep the bar flat on the table while you roll it. We used to have a custom solid steel bar, very heavy compared to EMT. This helped to keep the skin flat on the table as the “roll” was being executed. This is hard to do solo.
It looks like you allowed the bar to rise off the table causing the skin to bend at the Spar. You don’t need the skin to match the bar radius. The bar is just helping to form the curve until you can join the two halves without induced stress.
It’s not too late. Carefully bend the skins back so they lay flat near the Spar, then roll it as above.
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Last edited by JonJay : 04-16-2019 at 12:07 AM.
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  #6  
Old 04-16-2019, 07:45 AM
Mickrat Mickrat is offline
 
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Location: Lowell, IN
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I think they look much better in person. They do fit the gauge perfectly. I do plan on having an experienced builder look at it. If it's not acceptable, I won't be the first to build another rudder.
Thanks for all the input.
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  #7  
Old 04-16-2019, 08:47 AM
edbooth edbooth is offline
 
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It may be the picture, but it appears that the edges of the parts have not been deburred or smoothed. Debuting wheel from Van's does a great job here.
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  #8  
Old 04-16-2019, 08:54 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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It's not that there is anything wrong per-se (the airplane isn't going to fall out of the sky) just note that you don't want the "roll" pulling down across the spar or you may end up with cracks later.

You can get away with a few attempts without worrying about fatigue. I used a PVC pipe with clecos with enough pipe length to get a good grip.

Also, I had to go back and redo a bunch of those pop rivets, some of them ended up loose after the fact. I ended up developing a technique of flattening where the roll touches with my fingers before installing the rivet, seemed to help.

An easy way to drill them out is with this tool (worth every penny): http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Rivet-...ductinfo/RRT4/
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Last edited by bkervaski : 04-16-2019 at 08:57 AM.
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  #9  
Old 04-16-2019, 08:55 AM
jacoby jacoby is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickrat View Post
I think they look much better in person. They do fit the gauge perfectly. I do plan on having an experienced builder look at it. If it's not acceptable, I won't be the first to build another rudder.
Thanks for all the input.
Which end of the gauge are you using? The hole is deceiving at best. The slot is much more reliable.

Take a look at the MIL spec, specifically pages 10 and figure 1 pages 13-17. Basically there is a min/max height and a min diameter. The gauges are nominally 1.5d on the hole (the min is 1.3d) and the height gauge is set right in the middle of the range (0.060" for a -4 or about 1/2d)

https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq/mil...n-and-install/

A cheap set of digital calipers (even the $10 ones from HF) are useful for double checking that you're within spec.
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  #10  
Old 04-16-2019, 09:12 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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By the way don't let all the constructive criticism discourage you, nobody builds a perfect airplane. The empennage is everybody's training ground.
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