Cleveland AC Tools static system

Has anyone used the static system from from Cleveland AC Tools and what did you think? The port is convex in shape and I'm curious if that would be better then flush. Also, I wonder how the push on static tubes perform as far a leaking? Thanks

There was a whole discussion in the last week or two about flush static ports are unreliable (I think it was in the -10 forum). They need to have the protrusion to get the port out of the air right next to the skin. There is a technical term for that air; however, it has been way too many years since I took my commercial written.

I have no experience about the static ports but as catcrew states there was a good discussion about static ports a couple weeks ago. I have the Van's pop rivets in my RV-9A and am leaving them in. On my RV-10, I machined my own and they were fine. As far as the push on tubing connectors go, I used SafeAir kit on my RV-10 and had nothing but troubles tracking down the leak(s) on all the connector fittings where the tubing pushes in. I used their kit/tubing and even bought the nice tubing cutter for straight cuts. I made nice straight connections that were supported, I re-cut and re-installed all the ends one by one, and I still had a leak(s)! I ended up wrapping all the joints with silicone fusion tape to fix it. Not a very elegant solution, but it worked. I am there now where I need to make a decision and get the tubing runs installed in the RV-9A and quite perplexed on which way I want to go. I love the simplicity of the push/lock connectors but am leery of them.

PrescottB787 said:

Has anyone used the static system from from Cleveland AC Tools and what did you think? The port is convex in shape and I'm curious if that would be better then flush. Also, I wonder how the push on static tubes perform as far a leaking? Thanks

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If this is for a RV, then I would definitely recommend it and advise against flushed head static port. I had a flush head static port on my 7 which looked nice but it was not accurate. After a whole lot of experimenting, I end up cutting the head of a pop rivet and gluing it on top of the flush head for a pretty accurate static port. Two years later, I switched to Cleveland static port which proved to be very accurate and currently planning that for my new plane.

Bavafa said:

If this is for a RV, then I would definitely recommend it and advise against flushed head static port. I had a flush head static port on my 7 which looked nice but it was not accurate. After a whole lot of experimenting, I end up cutting the head of a pop rivet and gluing it on top of the flush head for a pretty accurate static port. Two years later, I switched to Cleveland static port which proved to be very accurate and currently planning that for my new plane.

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My experience is identical to this - and I?ll also be using same for my -10.
You?re in for a world of pain and messing around if you go flush. Do a search here - it?s been a well documented issue for as long as I can remember.

The Cleveland ports are super close on a 7. Not sure about other airframes.
No leaks in entire system ever using push fittings exclusively.

catcrew said:

They need to have the protrusion to get the port out of the air right next to the skin. There is a technical term for that air; however, it has been way too many years since I took my commercial written.

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Boundary Layer. Do I win??