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Cowl pin metal cover plate,who makes them.

Bob and Kurt thanks, my order is on back ordered. Sounds like a bunch of you are lined up ahead of me, but I can see why. Hey,didn't have a copy of my phone order so again thanks

Ron in Oregon
 
ron sterba said:
Bob and Kurt thanks, my order is on back ordered. Sounds like a bunch of you are lined up ahead of me, but I can see why. Hey,didn't have a copy of my phone order so again thanks

Ron in Oregon
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I'm just a happy customer, not in line ahead of you. I think I might've been their first customer for the RV-9A plates. They're great, by the way.

If you need the blanks now so that you can do the fiberglass work, they can probably ship them in advance. Or I can send you mine that I no longer need. The blanks are slightly larger than the finished plates so that there's a nice recess for paint, etc.
 
How about no hinge pin cover and use the hidden hing pin method so no plate/cover is needed? Pin come into the cockpit and are fed to the cowl hinges through brake tubing. Very easy to do and looks great.
 
Ron, I was trying to see if I had pictures from my RV7 build but didn't take any. At one time there was a nice post on the old Rivet Bangers site now defunct that showed Mike B.'s copy of what I did.

Basically a length of brake tubing is run from each side inside the cockpit bulkhead under the panel to the firewall. With the bottom cowling on feed the hinge pin through from the front of the cowling to the firewall and mark the spot it hits the firwall. That is the spot you'll drill a hole for the tubing to come out. Secure both ends of the tubing with some JB Weld. The bottom cowling on both sides needs to have the hinge pin eyelet the most aft one. On the pin itself mount a drawer pull knob to the cockpit end. Feed it through the entry point and it will push through the firewall and enter the first eyelet on the bottom cowl. Now when you put the top cowl on and push the pin forward the next eyelet in the top is lined up and just push away.

I just did this on my RV8 build so will try to get some pictures over the weekend. It is slightly different on the -8 but you'll get the idea. It really is much simpler and nicer looking than the typical front entry and plate.

I know many others have done this and it is generally done on the Sam James cowls so perhaps others who have done it could share some best practices as well.
 
DaAV8R said:
Is there any provision on the back of the cover plate for securing the hinge pin?
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You can JB weld a piece off aluminum on the back side 1/2" long x 1/4"X1/4"
Drill a .090-.100 hole in the center across the 1/4" width.
Make sure to have at least a 3/8" to 1/2" 90 degree bend in wire.
Works really good.

Geoff
 
Capflyer said:
How about no hinge pin cover and use the hidden hing pin method so no plate/cover is needed? Pin come into the cockpit and are fed to the cowl hinges through brake tubing. Very easy to do and looks great.
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Or simply follow the original design and secure them into a notch in the lower cowling opening.
 
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Capflyer said:
Ron,

"Basically a length of brake tubing is run from each side inside the cockpit bulkhead under the panel to the firewall."


What type/size brake tubing did you use? Where did you purchase it?

I did this on my RV4 over 25 years ago, but I can't find the tubing I used around here any more. The tubing was stainless with what looks to be a Teflon type inner coating that the hinge pin fits perfectly through...

Thanks
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