I wouldn't think so
Of course it depends on your benchmark for perfection. There are plenty of earlier model canopies flying without braces.
In practice, the canopy will be quite a bit more mobile in a lateral direction, but only while open so only on the ground and obviously there is no effect on flying characteristics.
Even with these braces installed, tip-up owners are wary of leaving their canopies up on a breezy day. Another practical effect is in closing the canopy where one without braces will need more hand guidance to come down so that the locking lug goes accurately into its hole. That's no problem from outside but can be a bit tricky when closing the canopy from inside prior to take off. You could easily add big delrin/nylon guides on the roll bar above the locking holes, which would help with that.
I just looked at my own canopy, which has the braces fitted. I think it might be possible to retrofit them without too much work. The aft line of rivets through the braces and canopy skin crosses from outside, under the fairing, under the plexi and along the forward edge of the glare shield very close to the plexi. It could be possible to drill from below and use stronger pulled rivets such as CherryMax but I would skip the rivet holes that required drilling up into the edge of the plexi. Of course solid rivets could be used outside the fairing but I would not use them anywhere that bucking was required for fear of cracking the plexi with vibration. It would almost certainly require patching the fairing epoxy and repainting as well as installing some glare shield upholstery to cover the rivet tails. For a great example of that, look for a thread on the subject by tkatc, who did a beautiful job on upholstering his glare shield. The forward rivets go into the bottom flange of the forward brace channel and are pulled rivets per plans, so no problem there
