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  #401  
Old 07-12-2019, 07:45 AM
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kentlik kentlik is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjb View Post
If you were building a Lancair or VariEze -- an all-glass plane -- yes, you should be concerned with the proper ratio of glass to resin. However, there are not very many glass components on an RV, and none are structural (maybe the cowl, but that comes from Vans pre-molded from a pro shop), so a little extra resin won't hurt much in weight or strength. It is good practice to wet out the glass and squeeze off any grossly extra resin; that's just wasted weight. You can pre-wet the glass on plastic before applying, or paint the resin on and stipple it into the weave, depending on the application.

Best tip: read every post by DanH on this forum; you'll learn a ton! (and might get a free plenum out of the deal ;-)

And, experiment! It's easy to do, relatively cheap and fast. After reading and experimenting, I was able to totally crush the mis-fit of my IO-360 snorkel. See http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...4&postcount=54. It was very educational and recreational (and fun!)
Thanks, Bill! I have read closely Dan's stuff on many aspects of construction and it has helped me get up the curve with less pain and suffering...lol
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  #402  
Old 07-12-2019, 10:01 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Originally Posted by kentlik View Post
So I got all that ordered and on its way. Started back with the fuel lines and bulkhead fittings and going along again but still ready to be done with this part...Return lines are a bit of challenge.
Heck ya, keep the train rollin!

Quote:
Originally Posted by wjb View Post
The 5:1 ratio is by volume; by weight it's 5.36:1 for the 206 slow hardener and 5:19:1 for the 205 Fast hardener ... though the data sheet calls out a large range around these for an acceptable mix (5:1 is in the middle of the range). I use a 0.1g scale to measure mine as well; the pumps are not particularly accurate. I never had a batch not cure rock hard doing it this way.
Interesting where did you find this ratio by weight? West System website says 5 to 1 for weight or volume. Whoops, never mind, I see it in the TDS. Ya you right though, there is a really large range which makes sense to me because before I started doing any fiberglass work I did a few samples that were purposely mixed wrong and put in about 45 degree weather and I never had anything not cure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wjb View Post
If you were building a Lancair or VariEze -- an all-glass plane -- yes, you should be concerned with the proper ratio of glass to resin. However, there are not very many glass components on an RV, and none are structural (maybe the cowl, but that comes from Vans pre-molded from a pro shop), so a little extra resin won't hurt much in weight or strength. It is good practice to wet out the glass and squeeze off any grossly extra resin; that's just wasted weight. You can pre-wet the glass on plastic before applying, or paint the resin on and stipple it into the weave, depending on the application.

Best tip: read every post by DanH on this forum; you'll learn a ton! (and might get a free plenum out of the deal ;-)

And, experiment! It's easy to do, relatively cheap and fast. After reading and experimenting, I was able to totally crush the mis-fit of my IO-360 snorkel. See http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...4&postcount=54. It was very educational and recreational (and fun!)
Kent, I will second reading all of the stuff DanH has posted, his posts are really what got me going as well as a few PMs to him. I also had some fiberglass experience but it's been a long time. The best method I have found is to sandwich the plies between two sheets of plastic and wet them out (a lot easier if you put epoxy below and above the plies). Peel one side off, start putting on your part/plane and peel the other side off as you go. Then get air bubbles out, make it how you want and put peel ply on when you are done. Drop me a call Kent when you get to doing your fiberglass and I'll explain it better.
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  #403  
Old 07-12-2019, 10:11 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjb View Post
And, experiment! It's easy to do, relatively cheap and fast. After reading and experimenting, I was able to totally crush the mis-fit of my IO-360 snorkel. See http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...4&postcount=54. It was very educational and recreational (and fun!)
Thanks for posting the link to that. I'm seriously debating just molding my own snorkle. The snorkle alone from Van's is $275! Anyone have any reasons not to go down this road?
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  #404  
Old 07-12-2019, 10:29 AM
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wjb wjb is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcarne View Post
Thanks for posting the link to that. I'm seriously debating just molding my own snorkle. The snorkle alone from Van's is $275! Anyone have any reasons not to go down this road?
Based on my VAF research, people have done both with good success. I thought I'd try chopping up my snorkel first to see if it would work, then if not, build my own. Worked great for me.
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  #405  
Old 07-13-2019, 07:18 PM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Well dang... I violated the golden rule of fiberglass when I was making my rear skirt; get your forms right!

After some sanding and filling I just wasn't happy with how the rear skirt was coming out. The top I got to look great but the bottom where no-one would ever see looked like a horror show. There was also a little gap on the right side that was just a little too big for my liking probably due to fill I put on the bottom in an attempt to make it look nicer. I just can't live with knowing imperfections like that are there so I decided to make a new one.

I went with a different approach this time by taping off the fuse and then filling/forming the shape a bit with some body filler and eventually micro mix. You can see what I mean in the next two pics.

20190713_154003 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

20190713_154010 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I think part of the reason the tape got a little saggy before was because it was strong enough to actually pull the canopy back a little bit. So this time I clamped the canopy in the forward position ( doesn't take a ton of force) and put a popsickle stick in between the frame and the pin mount block to hold it open ever so slightly. This way when it is closed it will close of up any minor gaps.

20190713_153951 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

20190713_153955 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Overall the form is looking waaaaay better this time. I will lightly sand it tomorrow and put another coat on to fill any low spots. I'm waiting on more fiberglass so I will get to laying this up again in a few days. I also wasn't overly thrilled with the strength of 4 layers so I think I'm going to go with 5 or even more likely 6 this time. Anyways, you win some and lose some just gotta keep on truckin!
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  #406  
Old 07-13-2019, 08:29 PM
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ColoCardinal ColoCardinal is offline
 
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Doing a wonderful job there Jareme. As you say; keep on truckin!
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  #407  
Old 07-13-2019, 11:44 PM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Doing a wonderful job there Jareme. As you say; keep on truckin!
Thanks Carl!
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  #408  
Old 07-17-2019, 11:16 AM
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Well I'm waiting on some fiberglass right now so let's get some more done on the wings.

I decided to get the bottom skins all dimpled and riveted to the wings after doing anything else inside I needed to. After watching some videos of others it is definitely something I can do myself. It's not as bad as I thought it was going to be either.

Right wing all finished.

20190716_122359 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Now there is a bit of a story to these next two pics. I remember back in the day last year saying "I should probably install the stall warner before riveting the leading edge to the spar". I didn't listen to myself and it reaaaaally bit me in the butt. It took almost two hours to put two screws in and get the wiring in. The black screws are allens and they can only be turned about one or two flats at a time through an access that your arm BARELY fits through. It was a royal pain and anyone building their wings reading this INSTALL THIS BEFORE RIVETING THE LEADING EDGE TO THE WING!!!.

20190716_152104 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

The carnage 3 hours later...

20190716_200025 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
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  #409  
Old 07-21-2019, 10:28 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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I have been waiting on more fiberglass so I continue to finish some things up on the wings. I have mounted the ailerons and flaps, it was quite fun actually.

One wing

20190718_173959 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Two wing

20190720_135239 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

The fiberglass arrived on Friday so yesterday I laid up another rear skirt. This one is looking much better already.

20190720_135250 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Super sad I'm not at Oshkosh this year but hey gotta get it done so I can hopefully fly there next year!
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  #410  
Old 07-23-2019, 10:30 PM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Ok I'm a little behind on posting more on the rear skirt. She is pretty much done this time and it came out beautiful on the second try!

Putting the micro on. This one didn't require much filling at all.

20190721_160422 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

The next day I sanded the micro down and only had three little areas that needed a bit of Evercoat. Put on four squeegy epoxy coats and waited over night. The next morning sanded it down to a perfectly smooth surface... the final sanding.

20190723_111721 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Look how good it fits on the fuse!!!

20190723_111728 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I primed the fairing today but didn't get a pic of it on the plane so I'll try and take one tomorrow. It looks great.

In the meantime while I have been waiting for epoxy to cure I have been working on the wingtips. I am going with the hinge attachment method. This method definitely takes some time but overall it isn't too bad.

Now there are two camps on when to do your wingtips.

Camp 1: do it anytime after getting the ailerons properly aligned on the wings with the tooling holes.

Camp 2: wait until you have your wings mounted because your flap mating with the fuselage may dictate where your ailerons will actually be neutral.

Camp 1 made the most sense to me since your ailerons being set with the tooling holes seemed the most important to me. If your flaps don't fully retract before hitting the fuselage you have some kind of error built in to your system and in my mind the poor way to "fix" that is by lowering your ailerons and inducing unnecessary drag. The better approach in that situation seems to me to joggle the protruding flap skin (where it touches the bottom of the fuselage) a bit so that it fully retracts.

Anyways, here is a pic of what I have done. I also bonded the inner hinge into the tips tonight. Tomorrow I should be able to rivet everything together and start working on the plexi covers.

20190723_130938 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
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Last edited by jcarne : 07-23-2019 at 10:33 PM.
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