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  #21  
Old 11-09-2019, 06:21 PM
lon@carolon.net lon@carolon.net is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Santa Monica, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mich48041 View Post
I have an early RV-12 with the Dynon D-180. Van's has made changes to the circuit board a couple of times since then.
Assuming that you have a later version, the fuse is probably located inside of the AV50001 Switch and Fuse Module.
Does the master switch light up? If not, that is a good indication that the 1 amp fuse is blown.
That fuse is probably out of sight inside of the AV50001.
My plane has the Skyview HDX -- the most recent version of the Dynon. I don't think it has an AV50001 module, because a digital search of both the Skyview Pilot Guide and Installation Guide failed to find either "AV50001" or "Switch and Fuse Module."

My plane does have a fuse panel right above five switches. There are 12 fuses labeled: Genrtr Main Bus; Start; Trim; Fuel Pump; EFIS; Com; Power Outlet; Nav Strobe; Landing Lights; Auto Pilot; Audio; and GPS ADSB.

So, four questions:

1. Are any of those fuses the fuse that may be bad?

2. Indeed, what does a bad fuse look like? During pre-flight, I've been looking for fuses that turned black or grey, but none have.

3. Is the "Switch and Fuse Module" the box that's behind my fuses and five switches?

4. If so, are you saying that the fuse that may be bad is hidden inside that box?
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RV-12, N58CV
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  #22  
Old 11-09-2019, 06:37 PM
NinerBikes NinerBikes is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Granada Hills
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Are you sure your C pin is 1.18 volts or is that a smartphone typo and it's 11.80V? I want you to be double sure about that measurement.
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  #23  
Old 11-09-2019, 06:38 PM
NinerBikes NinerBikes is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Granada Hills
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lon@carolon.net View Post
My plane has the Skyview HDX -- the most recent version of the Dynon. I don't think it has an AV50001 module, because a digital search of both the Skyview Pilot Guide and Installation Guide failed to find either "AV50001" or "Switch and Fuse Module."

My plane does have a fuse panel right above five switches. There are 12 fuses labeled: Genrtr Main Bus; Start; Trim; Fuel Pump; EFIS; Com; Power Outlet; Nav Strobe; Landing Lights; Auto Pilot; Audio; and GPS ADSB.

So, four questions:

1. Are any of those fuses the fuse that may be bad?

2. Indeed, what does a bad fuse look like? During pre-flight, I've been looking for fuses that turned black or grey, but none have.

3. Is the "Switch and Fuse Module" the box that's behind my fuses and five switches?

4. If so, are you saying that the fuse that may be bad is hidden inside that box?
Most of those fuses, if they go bad, the bad fuse lights up with a LED to indicate the bad fuse.
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  #24  
Old 11-09-2019, 06:51 PM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Riley TWP MI
Posts: 2,940
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If that 1 amp fuse for regulator terminal "C" proves to be very difficult to
replace, some people have elected to jumper it by connecting regulator
terminals B & C. Doing that is a bad idea because it disables half of the
master switch, the half that shuts off the regulator. If there is smoke in the
cockpit, shutting off the master will not shut off the electrical power because
during cruise, all power is coming from the alternator, not from the battery.
Either replace the blown fuse or do the following:
Install a new inline ATC fuse (available at auto parts store) near the voltage
regulator, connecting one side of the fuse to regulator terminal B or R.
Connect the other side of the fuse to D-Sub pin 13 of the "AV50002 Ignition
and Start Module". The existing white/Yellow 8 inch long wire that connects
to pin 13 can be removed and replaced with the new fuse wire, or the new
fuse wire can tap into the existing wire. Your option.
Making this repair does not modify the original circuit which remains
electrically the same, even though the wires are physically relocated.
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  #25  
Old 11-09-2019, 06:54 PM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
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Location: Riley TWP MI
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Fuses smaller than 3 amps do not light up when blown, at least the ones that Van's sells.
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  #26  
Old 11-09-2019, 06:57 PM
lon@carolon.net lon@carolon.net is offline
 
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Location: Santa Monica, California
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The C pin voltage was 1.18 volts. That was not a typo.

It turns out that my Dynon does have an AV-50001. It isn't mentioned in the Pilot Guide or Installation Guide. But it does show up in the Builder's Plans.

I can easily get to and remove the AV-50001. Replacing a soldered-in fuse will be trickier though. And before I try to do that, or just buy a new AV-50001, let me ask:

Why would that blown fuse, or a C pin voltage of 1.18, cause my charging system to fail?

I thought that the C pin simply measured the battery voltage and then turned the Rectifier off if the battery's voltage was at max or turned the Rectifier on if the battery voltage was low. I understand why this is very important. But if the Regulator thinks my battery voltage is just 1.18, wouldn't it turn the Rectifier on, rather than off, and if the Rectifier is on, wouldn't it charge the battery?
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  #27  
Old 11-09-2019, 07:01 PM
NinerBikes NinerBikes is offline
 
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Location: Granada Hills
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lon@carolon.net View Post
The C pin voltage was 1.18 volts. That was not a typo.

It turns out that my Dynon does have an AV-50001. It isn't mentioned in the Pilot Guide or Installation Guide. But it does show up in the Builder's Plans.

I can easily get to and remove the AV-50001. Replacing a soldered-in fuse will be trickier though. And before I try to do that, or just buy a new AV-50001, let me ask:

Why would that blown fuse, or a C pin voltage of 1.18, cause my charging system to fail?

I thought that the C pin simply measured the battery voltage and then turned the Rectifier off if the battery's voltage was at max or turned the Rectifier on if the battery voltage was low. I understand why this is very important. But if the Regulator thinks my battery voltage is just 1.18, wouldn't it turn the Rectifier on, rather than off, and if the Rectifier is on, wouldn't it charge the battery?
A charge controller with rectifiers also has a "low side voltage" limit, to prevent damage to the alternator, in the event the battery has a shorted cell. It also should prevent the battery from bulging or exploding, if a cell indeed has shorted out on the battery.
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  #28  
Old 11-09-2019, 07:08 PM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
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Location: Riley TWP MI
Posts: 2,940
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The AV50001 and AV50002 are not Dynon products. They are Van's.
1. NO
2. Bad fuses may be hard to spot, especially a 1 amp fuse. Best to check with a meter.
3. Yes, most likely. My plane is different, so I can not be 100 percent sure.
4. Yes.
Remember to check to see if the master switch lights up like the other switches do.
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  #29  
Old 11-09-2019, 07:20 PM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
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Location: Riley TWP MI
Posts: 2,940
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Regulator pin C must have battery voltage on it before the regulator will turn on.
Do not buy a new AV-50001 or pay to have it fixed. Install an inline fuse as
described above. Like I said, the circuit will still be electrically identical, even
if physically different. If the fuse blows again, it can then be easily replaced.
Sometime fuses blow for no apparent reason. They are a weak link in a
circuit. Suppose there is an intermittent short circuit that caused the fuse to
blow. Why pay for an expensive repair or replacement, only to have the fuse blow again?
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  #30  
Old 11-09-2019, 08:22 PM
MMiller MMiller is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Babylon NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lon@carolon.net View Post
Why would that blown fuse, or a C pin voltage of 1.18, cause my charging system to fail?
The C pin is both control and sense. The power on the C pin is what drives the SCR Gates, no C pin power, no gate voltage, no output. The sense circuit turns off the the gates when the set point is reached typically 14volts.
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