What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

PH Aviation flap actuator

Great item

I just installed one about a month ago in my new build 9. It is the last post on my blog. Not flying yet, but went in really easily. Ran it up and down with 9 v battery. Works nice.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, John, for the report on the PH Aviation actuator in your blog!

Just to clarify, there are two different flap actuators, one for the single-digit RVs and one for the -10 and -14. We have several of the latter installed and flying in RV-10s, and a few in RV-14s that possibly haven't flown yet.

I believe the OP is inquiring about the RV-10/14 actuator in an RV-14. Hopefully, one of the RV-14 builders will respond to your post. I am attaching the installation instructions developed by one of those builders for us.

https://www.phaviation.com/wp-conte...-Actuator-Installation-Instructions-RV-14.pdf
 
I fabricated the bracket some time ago and just installed the PH Aviation actuator in my -14A yesterday. No problems noted. Instructions were accurate and easy to follow. I ended up needing fewer spacer washers than called out in the instructions for the top bolt but ,other than that, it was by the book.

When fabricating the bracket, there were some instructions that I didn’t fully understand when I read them prior to doing the work. I found that as I worked through the steps the instructions became clear and overall, it was a breeze.

I’m just finishing up the fuselage so it will be a while before I can try it out.

Here are some photos... (the fuselage is in a rotisserie and on its side)

1A6F8mmKYNTJTf6rQAxz04tNQndK4DQIQ082IiP9l4sG2S4a77eIOoApXQSk1XsZrvPsqGLjPgVkZVZT1BMGVoH8Lf0KP9h4L3jvR3cEpvtJs3nP00w9-H8RSvssvZRPBVyu85RDoRmCgRCeUcCONZWEiUQ0mM5H144o3i8wMLmbB6bupfqdblVunEjo8-U9YsKq4ZUdhOtS8cQqFGZh0CMR1hSXqkZD3RE_uJ2XS9D54F4lflCzzrd4nmp8pukby__XhxTiXg5BV_cNSy4SwBHfBtK6S5NOcN75TGZdMK1NUPQTPyUgWPo9jCNVD2Gl0AkyyTgeU8JAALk1rXSpcmAY7eqYJsAIiCB7q-YnRT8_BVwtqi4Nrp401GAy2moWfi9cmSP84D8QgAfKsGAAiBJrTIJx2KC36gztfWvrpVIwO-_dbypFHdl4FCSFfcDm8yXVVy8ezSd4al-YbuCIBhM91MUWG7un1u81MPPD7kY8KAL2PYbG1h3Ixlb2_hJyZiUrt7sfzAKK00dQnQsRb0F0F1oQzq1pZgsNvYkCGVyKFG3IrMbtmgU8ga2_xlksDCbmC7F7gZ-P7S9w3gctNOXrI3P8VOLLkxOcRSK7r_HW94aehvj6yKhvHpyEJUalih3H0d0prfiUX17jcB6-vGjQUgwtF6Y=w800-no

UbnAICxUXc0-rNZZxpLai2x9RRDjJxHMQ75ALGuzBM3QVbSeXJmwhr3q-i9NRn5w6l1TftRy6wyScpDsduBoFgETCE5Zxra6VupOg9NL5-CGN3W-83TI57X7EPkX-GO_uwu6jRJVxAiH22GQNj-JYJwMnJQ1E_MCv7zgYQIFv6_xMNBFIVl5llO4bihw4vA5YYx7XnWHfn8ZVoTxjohYw_X_D8mmsH9BxuW-up_DL-sh6l57ysj_evVp9-RzhFoTcGxnr-6zkANuD-uru1CTG-b2GTF5bfPAgc09se7UtTlRogebmYYg-FnElVlx-BT3sQT2sQhYRxGzYu1BId3qJA1ICtlDKSm0TQy2n88_NWc2VE7LcHUTdeCa60nEcYLVdH5VJ8Is8DfCE8zHedfTRrzKIFYO2DAKLcYIk08p-p0aoHKpUgpaRpD0lZS1R_aNaiDf0zO9SXBkufON1TZPxPssFRljlJtLjKSGDS7-Z5NPHwoidvxDy_6o_iyvGmut0Z8OnWCXflc9cf91CGZ36m1LoiLHcHiJV6a5e77qEViK7z7RjXYSsq_7susMD5_9UKTNWK1tlRXB0ZiMqxb0u0AlX5R8oTr2QVuLZYEUYkO8_Yz91m2AHdpU1Cx98V2dQM1oYbcKkrhpIWMpw9qw96A2THtRwAE=w800-no

6Sp3avPKVR4LlcwUxKs6rlXD20KOO76PSDe0vkRXQQpJswgU8fy21OPgZn041mPMmfszySl5EB0OX5sdLbQ6ytsUK5kWCTRWmhEg2byNYuaLuagtNMgW3DX8da31hEJCyYd9NQKBf442ghyrkXf266kIq5BgHO328mC2O_aA8UlSB8S02nIk9hJzZWkWqjLNxJB9ejjFQPmk1lyNf6AELSH68PyyWlrIKW0sTt3dfs1shxfyscvFkh1Y-pOnSJuIOdLk_8EAQtfJFBuJbKyxBHYCFKH9ADwZu3xl9U291VgAS6wtHWwBUyuEn3I8x0988ESyjJBuBerJUMTobqTbUv6gQHXaNDYfYDwz7jRp_o3jiemdBOgwYOmgsVdfvXQpDFnIhZn4BDJrY17iXpQ_BmFAXvHTPqxhPYpE4M-OlVF2PGCClj0FoQu4ppN0Ni9jJQpIGrmvrLOIPh6HXnSq0LT7n4YPWc6mZHGyNwhStu_frv86UGxsUXmiCvdebL9GQw0UV747hOZkyap-nPNWT7r8PLANYDi_IckFBSf8fmYdLj6ASHzApk0aLFgMvdmuOLIfq_weXZ2AO9tkHlxGaVHMmxRyw30V7HTifSqTBSQoC-I_OJnt7GRNmGmXe__4Cb8QSrmyDtisgGhXFdxNtnWrzFAGGGw=w800-no
 
Last edited:
I fabricated the bracket some time ago and just installed the PH Aviation actuator in my -14A yesterday. No problems noted. Instructions were accurate and easy to follow. I ended up needing fewer spacer washers than called out in the instructions for the top bolt but ,other than that, it was by the book.

When fabricating the bracket, there were some instructions that I didn?t fully understand when I read them prior to doing the work. I found that as I worked through the steps the instructions became clear and overall, it was a breeze.

I?m just finishing up the fuselage so it will be a while before I can try it out.

I can?t seem to paste photos in line so here?s a link. https://share.icloud.com/photos/0hcmnC82gL5tH3qUNw7OvbKHw
Would you be willing to let me know which instructions were unclear in any way? I wrote them and I would be happy to make improvements based on your feedback. I'm glad they were helpful.
 
Would you be willing to let me know which instructions were unclear in any way? I wrote them and I would be happy to make improvements based on your feedback. I'm glad they were helpful.

Hi Ari,
Thanks for writing the instructions. I meant no criticism, they were great. When I first read through Step 2, I didn?t understand how the holes could be to the fore and aft at the same time. When I actually did the work it became obvious.

One area I?m not sure I got right was the shims. I ended up not installing any shims and the actuator boss fits neatly between the brackets with no slop. I wasn?t sure if the intent of the shims was to allow room for washers between the boss and bracket or what. I ended up with a nice fit so elected to omit the shims and there are no washers between the boss and bracket but, in retrospect, I?m not sure if that was the right decision. I don?t see that as an area of binding or wear so I think I?m ok either way and I can always mill down the boss a few thousandths on each side and then install washers to take up the slack if it later becomes an issue.

Anyway, you did a masterful job on the instructions and I?m pretty sure any confusion is all on me.
 
Hi Ari,
Thanks for writing the instructions. I meant no criticism, they were great. When I first read through Step 2, I didn?t understand how the holes could be to the fore and aft at the same time. When I actually did the work it became obvious.

One area I?m not sure I got right was the shims. I ended up not installing any shims and the actuator boss fits neatly between the brackets with no slop. I wasn?t sure if the intent of the shims was to allow room for washers between the boss and bracket or what. I ended up with a nice fit so elected to omit the shims and there are no washers between the boss and bracket but, in retrospect, I?m not sure if that was the right decision. I don?t see that as an area of binding or wear so I think I?m ok either way and I can always mill down the boss a few thousandths on each side and then install washers to take up the slack if it later becomes an issue.

Anyway, you did a masterful job on the instructions and I?m pretty sure any confusion is all on me.
I write for a living. Constructive criticism is always welcome. Would this language have been clearer?

"The prototyper recommends marking the two (2) aft rivets 3/16? to the aft of the centerline mark and the two (2) forward rivets 1/4? to the fore of the centerline mark."

I used shims because I wanted anything that rotates to have a circular face to ride against. As you guessed, the shims allowed washers to be used in the role of a bushing between the actuator boss and the brackets. It probably makes almost no difference at all given the minimal rotation that the boss goes through in a full stroke of the actuator. You and I will both be inspecting that location annually after our planes take flight, so we will eventually figure out if it makes a difference or not. You also can indeed machine the boss if you see wear there.
 
Yes, for me at least, the new wording is more clear.
Knowing what I do now I would add the shims as you did since having the washers in place will definitely reduce the contact area and, therefore, friction and will limit any wear to a more easily replaceable part. That said, it is what it is and I don't think it is worth the effort to redo it at this point. I'll just make sure to keep it well lubricated and I suspect it will last a very long time. Lesson learned!

One other thing just came to mind... I assume that the original instructions from Van's dealing with drilling a hole and adding a safety wire at the bottom end of the actuator are not required for this actuator. Is my assumption correct?

Thanks again for providing the great instructions. As a first time builder, most times, they are all I have. :)
 
Last edited:
You're welcome. I'm a first-time builder and really enjoyed this taste of what it must be like to build an earlier kit. The RV-14's kit quality truly spoils us!

I made that change to the instructions for the next revision I send to Pat. I'll be watching here in case anyone else comes up with additional questions or issues.
 
One other thing just came to mind... I assume that the original instructions from Van's dealing with drilling a hole and adding a safety wire at the bottom end of the actuator are not required for this actuator. Is my assumption correct?

Thanks again for providing the great instructions. As a first time builder, most times, they are all I have. :)

Thanks for the comments, guys! Ari, thanks again for writing these instructions, excellent job.

Safety-wire mod not required here because the rod-end bearing cannot rotate.
 
Not trying to challenge anyone or anything at all but is this actuator addressing a shortcoming in the stock one or is it just a more robust option? I had not heard of any failures on 14s yet that's why I'm asking. Certainly if I have a failure then this would look like a good replacement for the stock setup.
 
PIREP request

OK, it has been 1/2 a year at least since these flap actuators hit the market. I'm about to pull the upgrade trigger, but does anybody have any PIREPs, particularly regarding the RV-7 and interoperability with:
- SkyView's EMS flap position indicator, and with...
- Vertical Power Pro VPX?
 
I?ve had it in my RV-10 for about a year now. I also have the VPX/Pro. It works like a champ and works as Pat specified. It?s clearly a superior solution to the original unit in the plans.
 
A couple of questions:

I currently have what I believe is the stock flap actuator in my -10. The flaps are controlled by a DPDT switch on the panel that locks in the up position, or is momentary for the "down" position. I simply push down and the flaps go to the next available position, which is indicated on my G-900X panel display. I have the flap positioner that is external to the actuator and has notches in a rod. The signal for the 900X comes from a Ray Allen FPS sensor in the wing root. Other than the original Ray Allen sensor failure, the system has been trouble free for 500+ hours.

If I wanted to "upgrade", are the brackets being fabricated and sold with or in addition to the flap actuator? Will the position signal still display on my 900X panel just as it does now? Can I use the same flap switch I have been using?

-Marc
 
actuator

The stock bracket will need to be modified slightly; the mod can be retrofit without much effort.

The position pot is internal and uses the same three wire setup as the RAC POS sensor.

The motor drive is identical to the stock actuator; two wires, reversing polarity reverses motor direction.

The fit and finish of the PH actuator is great and it is a robust unit.

I am not flying yet but I retrofit the PH actuator in an afternoon...
 
Any RV-4 retrofits?

I recently converted my -4 to electric flaps with the Vans kit and am wondering how much work this would be to retrofit before I close everything up. I am trying to determine if the benefits will be worth the additional weight, effort, and especially down-time.
 
Back
Top