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  #1  
Old 01-12-2009, 02:32 AM
N24YW N24YW is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Burlington Iowq
Posts: 111
Default Fuel sender leak

My fuel sender is leaking. The gasket has swelled up some and it seems to have some blue stains on the sending unit. My question, is it possible to remove the sender on a Rv 6 with out pulling the tank off of the wing. My plan is to try to use tank sealer and no gasket.?/

Jim Knight
Burlington Iowa
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  #2  
Old 01-12-2009, 03:09 AM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,639
Default

Yes! And then you can cut the the gasget with a plastic kinfe to remove the sender unit. When you re install it, just use pro seal and no gasget.
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  #3  
Old 01-12-2009, 09:29 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 9,926
Smile ...and use....

...socket head cap screws when you re-install the sender.

Much easier to get at in the restricted space than philips head screws if you ever need to get back in there.
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  #4  
Old 01-12-2009, 07:42 PM
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Jim Lewellyn Jim Lewellyn is offline
 
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Location: Bloomsburg, PA
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Default Yes, but.....

You can do it with the tank in, but........It is difficult get your hands in there to work, and it is very hard to clean the surfaces between the sender and the tank. It only takes a few extra minutes to remove the tank, throw it up on the bench, and work on it with ease.
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  #5  
Old 01-12-2009, 09:35 PM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
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Location: Dallas area
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Default

I'm afraid I have to agree with Jim on this one. I've done it both ways, and on a -6, I will never again try to do it without removing the tank. I's so much easier. You can remove and reinstall the tank in less than an hour and you will save more time than that by doing it this way. Plus you will do a much cleaner job.
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North Texas (8TA5)
RV-6 Flying since 1993, 172hp O-320, 3-Blade Catto (since 2003)Sold
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  #6  
Old 05-25-2010, 12:59 AM
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flyboy1963 flyboy1963 is offline
 
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Location: Lake Country, B.C. Canada
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Default pulling tanks not easy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel View Post
I'm afraid I have to agree with Jim on this one. I've done it both ways, and on a -6, I will never again try to do it without removing the tank. I's so much easier. You can remove and reinstall the tank in less than an hour and you will save more time than that by doing it this way. Plus you will do a much cleaner job.
sounds easy if you say it fast. As I don't have a hangar, and not being the builder, dont' have a lot of fancy tools, would you still recommend pulling the tanks? I'm concerned that I won't get the fuel line and vent lines back together as good as they are now; in fact, is there enough 'slack' in these rigid lines to actually separate the flare fittings, to allow the tank to 'swing' free?

I'm sure doing them in place is a huge pain, but I'd rather not pull them if I don't have to.

your words of wisdom appreciated.
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  #7  
Old 05-25-2010, 07:00 AM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
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Location: Dallas area
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Default Like I said,

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1963 View Post
I'm concerned that I won't get the fuel line and vent lines back together as good as they are now; in fact, is there enough 'slack' in these rigid lines to actually separate the flare fittings, to allow the tank to 'swing' free?
It can be done in place. If you DO decide to pull the tank, remove the "B" nuts first. Don't try to remove the tank and THEN undo the lines. The lines are not long enough to flex much at all.
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Mel Asberry..DAR since last century
A&P/BGI/EAA (LifeTime) Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor/Nat'l Test Pilot School
Specializing in Amateur-Built and Light-Sport Aircraft
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
North Texas (8TA5)
RV-6 Flying since 1993, 172hp O-320, 3-Blade Catto (since 2003)Sold
Legend Cub purchased 12/2017
FRIEND of the RV-1
Eagle's Nest Mentor
Recipient of Wright Brothers "Master Pilot" Award
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  #8  
Old 05-25-2010, 08:18 AM
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flyboy1963 flyboy1963 is offline
 
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Default good advice

thanks Mel,
I already bought the hex head screws for the last leak 'fix'. Now just the 'gasket or not' decision. I'm leaning towards just coating everything with Permatex aviation form-a-gasket. Actually, I don't think i CAN put a gasket on with the tanks in place.....won't be able to slide it over the float?
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  #9  
Old 05-25-2010, 09:14 AM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,225
Default Here is a link of how I did it.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ht=fuel+sender

I hope you find it useful. On my 6, I did not want to cut away the paint on the tank screws to remove the tank. Be prepared for a very messy job here as it is tough to get your hands in there and the proseal where it is supposed to be. Outside of the mess, it is a very simple job.
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  #10  
Old 05-25-2010, 10:09 AM
LarryT LarryT is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Battle Ground, WA
Posts: 426
Default

+1 for tank removal. The tank was remarkably easy to remove (especially compared to my Cherokee tanks, which I had to remove to address an AD). I am convinced based on personal experience that the job is actually faster if one removes the tank.

LarryT
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