Hartzell constant speed removal

I'm about to remove my prop and send it off for inspection. It's a HC-C2YR-1BF. For the R flange model the instructions read -unscrew the six 1/2 inch mounting studs from the engine bushings.

So I'm not quite clear I understand and have two questions. Question 1 is when removing the safety wire it looks like the wire went through roll pins inserted into the studs. Are these roll pins that have to be removed somehow or do they just look like roll pins but I just unscrew the nuts and don't worry about them? The illustration in the factory manual does not appear to have roll pins nor does it call out roll pins.

Question 2 is when unscrewing the nuts are the studs going to come out with the nuts? Or do the nuts come out, then I pull the prop off, then I remove the studs?

Many thanks,.

The roll pins attach the nut to the stud and also provide a hole for safety wire. Just remove the safety wire and use a wrench to remove the studs, via the attached nuts. These studs are fine pitch and will take some time to unscrew them all the way. Alternate stud removal so that the prop comes off evenly. Not doing so will bind the prop in the flange and make it difficult/impossible to get it off, or possibly damage the prop hub or crank flange, so go slowly and evenly. You will need help - preferably 2 guys to hold the prop when you get near the end of the studs. It weighs about 55 pounds and is difficult to handle by yourself, especially if you haven’t done it before. The studs will end up hanging with the prop hub - there isn’t enough room for them to come all the way out of the hub. That’s why the nuts are attached with roll pins instead of just using a drill head bolt. One more thing - when you pull the prop out of the crank flange, you will most likely get a big glob of black oil coming out of the hollow crank end and prop hub, so be ready for it.

Thanks very much! That was a very clear explanation.

Great explanation. I would suggest using an engine hoist with a cargo strap around the prop blades at the hub - it supports it very easily (and is easily adjustable), and then the prop can easily be lowered.

KeithB said:

Great explanation. I would suggest using an engine hoist with a cargo strap around the prop blades at the hub - it supports it very easily (and is easily adjustable), and then the prop can easily be lowered.

Click to expand...

A cheap Harbor Freight or Amazon load leveler helps if you're doing it solo.

Where else can you find valuable information like this in no time at all? This website is amazing! The annual contribution to this site is the best value there is in all of aviation

Make sure you replace the seal while your at it.

Prop

A engine hoist and nylon straps work well if you haven’t done this before. Mark flywheel, both bulkheads, the prop and spinner so it can go back on like it came off. It will still be a little nose heavy as it comes off. If you take the rear bulkhead off the prop note the stackup of spacers/washers for reassembly. If prop is off for any length of time seal up the crank with something obvious that can’t be left in. When it’s time to install check the nose of the crank for any burrs or sharp edges. Even if it feels smooth I like to wet sand that very front edge of the crank with some WD-40 and 1200 grit or use a fine sharpening stone(Clean throughly after). Clean the O ring groove in the prop throughly with out scratching anything (Q tips and a little solvent or fuel). Inspect the crank nose in the area where the O ring will be when prop is bolted up and make sure it’s spotless. Any speck of varnish or sludge may cause a leak and you don’t want to repeat this process for that. Use a new o ring and clean engine oil for assembly lube. I would definitely install a new alternator belt. This is also perfect time to replace the crankshaft seal if it shows any signs of leakage. When prop comes back the front dome will be in a different place than it is now so front bulkhead spinner screw location will need to be addressed. That’s easy to fix and can be covered in another thread or send me a PM.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer

... also, when you ge the prop back, don?t be surprised if the front spinner bulkhead screws don?t line up. This is common. If they are not off too much, you can draw an arc through the old holes and elongate them (make a slot) so you don?t have to rework the bulkhead. This is how many production spinners are done and is perfectly acceptable.
Some say you can mark them and your prop shop can match them up if they know, but when I asked, I was told they couldn?t control that in the rebuild.

With the prop off I would also replace the alternator belt too!

Cleaning the hollow crank

Just removed my prop for the 6 year overhaul. What do you use to clean out the hollow crank area? Seems like a silver colored greasy residue.

Anything that will get in there and scoop out the lead ( silvery greasy goop)
Screw driver, finger, popsicle stick, etc. fun stuff!
Art

I’m on it. Thanks Art

Be very careful with something metallic like a screwdriver. The crank has some pretty tight damage limits in this area. a nonmetallic scraper and solvent is your best bet.

Copy that. Using a wooden dowel. I would definitely be concerned about scratching anything in there.