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  #1  
Old 05-02-2019, 04:22 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is online now
 
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Default Sikaflex Slider Canopy procedure

There is another thread about a crack. I don't want to hijack the thread so here is a new thread.
I have the slider canopy and frame ready to Sikaflex but I'm a little confused on the procedure regarding spacers and stresses. I don't want a stress crack.
I have lots of spacers 1/16" to 1/8". The canopy has to be clamped to hold it so there has to be some stresses.
What is the proper method of shimming and clamping before Sikaflex?
Should the canopy be clamped at the horizontal rails then shimmed and clamped?
or
Should it be clamped starting at the top of the frame then shims and clamps placed moving toward the horizontal rails?
It's under stress no matter which, but it seems to fit more uniform by the latter method.

Another question...
Using the blob method where small blobs are applied to secure the canopy then another pass with a bead applied.
Is the process is to apply Activator, Primer a d Sika to the blob area using tape to isolate those areas then remove and a few days later repeat the process to the remaining area?

Yet another question...
How wide of an area should be isolated with tape under each frame member for Sika application?
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/27/2018. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.

Last edited by wirejock : 05-02-2019 at 06:39 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-02-2019, 09:34 PM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Larry these are all good questions that will hopefully get answered. They also seem very related to a few different models. You may want to post or have this moved to the general section to get more views on this one. I look forward to the answers you get on these questions.
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  #3  
Old 05-02-2019, 09:38 PM
lr172 lr172 is online now
 
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Start clamping the canopy in place. As you are doing so, you need to sense how much force it is taking to make the canopy conform. The more force it takes to get it into position, the more that is introducing stress. You can then add and remove clamps repeatedly to determine exactly where the bending is occuring. The job is then to use spacers to make a gradual bend instead of a sharp one; Taking a short, concentrated stress into a longer one that spreads the stress over a larger area and reducing the concentration.

Larry
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  #4  
Old 05-02-2019, 11:14 PM
Lars Lars is offline
 
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I'm not sure I understand all your questions (it's late and the beer in the fridge was beckoning yet again) but I used spacers on the front and rear bows only. Along the side I cut the canopy so that, when clamped in place, there was about a 1/8"- 3/16" gap between the bottom edge of the canopy and the top of the square side bow. I used a couple of strips of kit-supplied aluminum, maybe 3" wide and long enough to span the entire side bows clamped to the side bows only with spring clamps, to hold the sides of the canopy flush with said side bows.

A bunch of photos here in case any help: https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-dQ6Kn/

That was a long time ago, if clarification is needed please pester. I've done 3 or 4 since then.
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:22 AM
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Raymo Raymo is offline
 
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Larry,

I used pieces of PVC tubing, cut about 1/4" wide for spacers. These are about 1/8" thick. Clamp them in place starting at the front and aft middle of the frame. You'll skip the shimmed area when applying the first round of Sika. Once cured, pull the shims and apply the activator/primer/sika to the small shim areas to close them out.

I opted to use a hybrid method for the side skirts; sealing with Sika but attaching with screws. Very happy with the results.

I have a Word doc (can be PDF) I can send that may help. PM with your email address and I'll send it. It is a compilation of a couple other build sites, along with my own pictures and notes.
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RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ AFP FM-150 FI, Dual PMags, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter, BandC Alt (PP failed after 226 hrs)
Catto 3 blade NLE, FlightLines Interior, James cowl, plenum & intake, Anti-Splat -14 seat mod and nose gear support
All lines by TSFlightLines

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Last edited by Raymo : 05-03-2019 at 08:28 AM.
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  #6  
Old 05-03-2019, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymo View Post
Larry,

I used pieces of PVC tubing, cut about 1/4" wide for spacers. These are about 1/8" thick. Clamp them in place starting at the front and aft middle of the frame. You'll skip the shimmed area when applying the first round of Sika. Once cured, pull the shims and apply the activator/primer/sika to the small shim areas to close them out.

I opted to use a hybrid method for the side skirts; sealing with Sika but attaching with screws. Very happy with the results.

I have a Word doc (can be PDF) I can send that may help. PM with your email address and I'll send it. It is a compilation of a couple other build sites, along with my own pictures and notes.
PM sent. Thanks Ray
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/27/2018. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #7  
Old 05-07-2019, 12:49 PM
Lars Lars is offline
 
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I've responded to a few Sika threads over the years, but I think my usual verbal arm-waving tends to confuse more than help. I used techniques similar to what others before me described, including no holes in the slider canopy other than for the latch handle. Once upon a time there was a good write-up on the web with photos and sketches but it's long gone. In any case, one of the details that was well-described on that site, and that I followed, was bonding the canopy to the side bows. A couple of days ago I made some crude sketches attempting to convey what I did, in the hope it would help others. Haven't scanned them in yet but here are iPhone pix of the sketches.



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  #8  
Old 05-07-2019, 04:13 PM
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wirejock wirejock is online now
 
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Default Lars Method

Thanks. I already have the canopy inside braces riveted to the frame and plan to use them. She's all taped up. I do plan to use the strip of aluminum to hold the sides.
Sika tomorrow I hope.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/27/2018. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #9  
Old 05-07-2019, 05:30 PM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Lars thanks for posting them pics. This area has always confused me when using the sika method.
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RV-7A Emp. done
Wings mostly done
Fuselage almost done
Finish kit arrived
Exempt but gladly paying!
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  #10  
Old 05-08-2019, 10:32 AM
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Raymo Raymo is offline
 
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I did my side skirts just like Lars and it worked quite well.
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Ray
RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ AFP FM-150 FI, Dual PMags, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter, BandC Alt (PP failed after 226 hrs)
Catto 3 blade NLE, FlightLines Interior, James cowl, plenum & intake, Anti-Splat -14 seat mod and nose gear support
All lines by TSFlightLines

"The object of the game, gentlemen, is not to cheat death: the object is not to let him play."
Patrick Poteen, Sgt. U.S. Army
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