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  #11  
Old 04-24-2019, 07:54 PM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Meridian ID, Aspen CO
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David, one item that you will use no matter what type of epoxy or filler you are using is spreading cards. I used to buy the yellow spreaders from HF and they work ok. I didn't have a clean one once and had a hotel key card. I never went back. If you know anyone at a hotel or apartment complex, you can probably get them for free. You can order blanks from Amazon or send me an email and I will send you a bunch.

Have fun with it - you can always sand out mistakes!
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  #12  
Old 04-24-2019, 11:40 PM
DavidHarris DavidHarris is offline
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Upland, CA
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This is all extremely helpful. Thank you, all!
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  #13  
Old 04-24-2019, 11:54 PM
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erich weaver erich weaver is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: santa barbara, CA
Posts: 1,620
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Here is a good tutorial on the basics of supplies and technique

http://www.rvpilot.com/Fiberglass/fiberglass.html

Erich
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  #14  
Old 04-25-2019, 07:10 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 8,814
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Dave, going to the appropriate forum section and then clicking the "Views" tab is a good way to pop up the popular threads on most topics. Reading the first 10 or so threads is often a good primer, with specialty questions being a little further down the list.

Here, I copied the resulting URL from the fiberglass forum:

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...esc&sort=views

Notes:

Buy and use scales for ratio. They work for all resins, and for proseal. Condiment squirt containers and/or old pancake syrup bottles make good resin and hardener dispensers. Pumps suck...literally.

The world is full of claims for better mousetraps, but glass micro, flox, and cabosil are all the additives you'll ever need.

As Steve said, there are better epoxies, better mostly being a matter of structural properties. That said, there isn't much structural glass in an RV kit, so West has been popular here. The most important detail for reliable curing of any epoxy is climate control...low humidity, 75F.

If you use West, buy only a little can of fast hardener. You won't use much.

7761 is an 8-harness (look it up). 7725 is a 4-harness. 7500 is a plain over/under. At the shop level, the difference is how easily each conforms with curvature, which is roughly inverse to speed of wet-out. All are in the 9oz range. Experiment.

Learn to do wet-outs between 4-mil clear plastic sheets. It's called vapor barrier at the big box store.

Do not thin epoxy with solvents. Yes, it's common practice, but properties go downhill fast.
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  #15  
Old 04-25-2019, 07:33 AM
krhea krhea is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Peck, Kansas
Posts: 123
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I like RAKA for a supplier.

Keith Rhea RV7
2019 dues paid
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  #16  
Old 04-25-2019, 03:37 PM
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Larry DeCamp Larry DeCamp is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Clinton, Indiana
Posts: 861
Default +1 for wetout between film !

When the glass is transparent under the film the layers stick together better than application of individual layers sequentially. Also, the 4 layer matrices is surprisingly conformable to curves. The top layer of film makes a great “barrier” for your gloves so you can form and massage the glass as desired into features. Follow Dan’s bible, it works.
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  #17  
Old 04-28-2019, 10:53 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Worland, Wyoming
Posts: 998
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I just purchased my west epoxy from Merrit Supply only to find out that if I had gone straight from West Marine it is free shipping.
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