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Elevator Rod End Bearing Problem

C

ClarkieSr

Active Member
Elevator rod end bearing

When I tried to install the rod end bearing in one of the elevators one of the bearings won't thread into the platenut attached to the elevator spar. The plate nut looks like it's sitting at a slight angle and won't allow the rod end to thread to the nut. Has anyone had this problem or knows a fix. I hate to take the elevator apart to fix it.
 
Posted for my Dad...When I tried to install the rod end bearing in one of the elevators one of the bearings won't thread into the platenut attached to the elevator spar. The plate nut looks like it's sitting at a slight angle and won't allow the rod end to thread to the nut. Has anyone had this problem or knows a fix. I hate to take the elevator apart to fix it.
 
Thanks. That was my next move. Just waiting for Amazon to deliver it. Thanks for the help and I hope it works
 
That may be what you'll have to do, open it up and then re-rivet that nutplate.

Dave
 
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I don't think I'd want to open up the hole - if you do it that way, you'll remove the capability of the hole in the spar to carry any shear load.

Dave
 
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Is the platenut lined up properly with the hole in the spar? If not, just enlarging the hole slightly might help. This would only work for a slight misalignment because the elevator hinges need to line up with each other.
At this point the the two halves of the elevator horn haven't been drilled together for the centre bearing, so a small adjustment should be possible.
As always check with Van's.
 
I called Van's builder support and they said I could take enlarge it slightly, about 5 thousands. Here's also a jam nut that offers some side load
 
You don't say what model RV you are working on?

Regardless, if the rod end isn't engaging in the threads and the nutplate is sitting out of place enough for you to be able to see it, then you might have other problems later if you just enlarge the hole to allow insertion of the rod end.

There was a Service Bulletin issued regarding spar cracking (a lot of discussion here in the forums). Accepting a misaligned hinge point and forcing the parts to fit together is one possible cause of cracking like has been seen.
Another problem can be early failure of the rod end bearing because of a constant load applied because of misalignment.
If it looks like the nutplate is misaligned or tilted because of the way the rivets set, my recommendation would be to drill out the rivets and install a new nut plate using Cherry rivets. This can be done without any major disassembly.
 
It's a -10. Following your suggestion I would still have to take the elevator apart to install a new nut plate. That being said, I'd rather use solid rivets
 
Try inserting a drill bit shank or something that just fits. If it has a visible angle you may be able to pry it straight provided there isn't something wrong inside. If successful, I'd run the jam nut down tight once to make sure the nutplate is flat against the spar.
 
ClarkieSr said:
I called Van's builder support and they said I could take enlarge it slightly, about 5 thousands. Here's also a jam nut that offers some side load
Click to expand...

The jam nut only provides bending strength. It adds zero shear strength, parallel to the spar web, to the joint.

Dave
 
ClarkieSr said:
It's a -10. Following your suggestion I would still have to take the elevator apart to install a new nut plate. That being said, I'd rather use solid rivets
Click to expand...

As I already mentioned, you would not have to disassemble the elevator. I will explain how to do it if you decide that is what you want to do.
 
Drill out one rivet holding the nutplate, insert cleco.
Repeat for second rivet.
Slightly squeeze clecos to make them thinner, push the nutplate to center it, insert a screw.
Remove one cleco, insert Cherrymax (may have to slightly oversize hole).
Repeat for other side.
 
Before you go to the trouble of enlarging the hole, etc., make sure the nutplate actually has threads.

Don't ask me why I am saying this :(
 
I have seen the nut plates manufactured such that the threaded opening is not perpendicular to the surface to which they are riveted but is tilted a few degrees. In that case, getting the rod end started in the threads is difficult. I have inserted an appropriately sized punch or drift and used it to tilt the threaded opening back to a perpendicular position. Once the nut plate is bent to perpendicular, inserting the rod end and catching the threads is no longer a problem. I hope I have explained this in an understandable way because this is one of those "easier to show than to tell."
 
molson309 said:
Before you go to the trouble of enlarging the hole, etc., make sure the nutplate actually has threads.

Don't ask me why I am saying this :(
Click to expand...

Yes, I had a batch of #8 K1100 nutplates with no threads. Don't know if they were Vans or AC Spruce's.
 
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