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Cowl flap advice

Post #50

The lower portion of the baffle does not fit tight against the fins. Slightly overbending the radius will help there. I know the safety wire is standard on RV's but I prefer 1/8 diameter rod with the ends threaded. Does the #3 baffle fit tightly around the oil pressure relief valve?? Another common source for leakage.
 
Standards change

The lower portion of the baffle does not fit tight against the fins. Slightly overbending the radius will help there. I know the safety wire is standard on RV's but I prefer 1/8 diameter rod with the ends threaded. Does the #3 baffle fit tightly around the oil pressure relief valve?? Another common source for leakage.

It seems the twisted wire method is no longer standard. :)

Vans OP-40 and OP-44 baffle kit instructions (2006?) now use the threaded rod method for tying the baffle ends together.
 
sorry for the thread revival.

is the cirlced bit the tab you are talking about?

I'm experiencing high CHT #3...


No. The "small tab" referenced is located right at the base of the cylinder, adjacent to the hold down nut. That needs to be bent into position (often isn't), and RTV'd shut (rarely is).

That said, the fin wrap shown in your picture should be tight against the fins (isn't), but as that's the #3 and does not have a bypass duct modification, it's not moving much air anyway so probably doesn't matter.

If the picture is your airplane, then build a bypass duct, tighten up that lower wrap, and your temps will come way down.
 
Last edited:
http://imgur.com/5wpZYYDThanks Michael. Is this it?

5wpZYYD
 
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