VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

  #11  
Old 09-19-2016, 10:26 AM
Snowflake's Avatar
Snowflake Snowflake is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,205
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by j-red View Post
It turns out that the original builder's unorthodox way of installing the air scoop on the lower cowl made it a fairly simple repair. Instead of bonding the scoop permanently, he cut a recess, backed it with aluminum strips, then installed nutplates and finally built up the area with filler to blend it with the rest of the cowling.
While not "common", it's not unheard of either. My purchased RV-6 came that way as well. I find it cuts in half the number of times I have to remove the lower cowling for various maintenance tasks. With a quick-drain on the sump, an oil change can be done just by removing the top cowl and the airbox scoop, for example.

Of course it's probably not as fast as a one-piece lower cowl...
__________________
Rob Prior
1996 RV-6 "Tweety" C-FRBP (formerly N196RV)
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 10-03-2016, 08:57 AM
j-red j-red is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lewes, DE
Posts: 262
Default Weekly Update 9/17-10/01

I actually like the idea of the removeable scoop and for a time hoped to replicate it, but there were some filler and delamination issues going on in this particular installation that made grinding out the old and glassing in the new the best route.

Continuing on with cowl-related work, I cut the nose-gear slot in the center of the cowl scoop, then put together the assembly that stabilizes and covers the gap behind the nose gear leg.




While ordering a bunch of stuff from Vans a while back, I put the two nosewheel fairing brackets in my cart for a cool $35 (I think they were like $17 a piece!). After drilling out the holes for the axles and bolting them in place, it was apparent that they were WAY too wide for the old style wheel pant I'm using. The new one definitely looks more "bulbous" in photos, but I guess I just didn't think about this when ordering the brackets. So, I used some scrap and made my own which is probably what I should have done in the first place, saving some money. With the new brackets made and attached to the axle, I went about fitting the wheel pant. Still lots more work to be done there, but it's coming along.





Moving up the firewall, I drilled apart then re-fabricated the cabin heat box so that the actuating lever would be on the top since it was much easier to route the cable from up north rather than below it somewhere. The box was then riveted to the firewall with a "gasket" of firestop. The cable has also been run, and functions smoothly.



The copper bus bar material i ordered came in and so the master and starter solenoid strips were made and installed with a protective covering of heatshrink around the middle section.


With that last bit of reaching through the middle of the firewall complete, I called in some riveting help and installed the center firewall cutout relief box, followed by the rudder pedal support bracket and the final UHMW rudder pedal block which supports the middle section.



My wife was kind enough to come out and hold the battery box to the firewall while I crawled inside to start the six bolts that hold it on. Thanks Dear! While under there, I fabbed the necessary bits to secure the aluminum brake lines to the back of the firewall via Adel clamps.



Finally, i finished the autopilot install by safetying the roll servo, and cutting/threading the rod that connects it to the controls.

(Edit: Once the wings were on and the ailerons were being rigged, I had to pull all of this out and re-do it. I ended up using the Dynon servo bracket kit and location/instructions that came with it which worked perfectly without the over-throw problems that I had with the servo mounted as shown here.)

Last edited by j-red : 10-14-2017 at 09:38 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 10-14-2016, 09:10 AM
j-red j-red is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lewes, DE
Posts: 262
Default Weekly Update 10/2-10/114

Spent several "work days" (i.e. an hour or two early in the morning before work) getting the gear in shape. One tire was bald on the inside, the other was more evenly worn, but would probably need to be replaced within a year anyway, so I decided to go ahead and replace both tires and tubes with retreads from Wilkerson's. Got a nice set of Goodyear sidewalls with a whole ton of tread on them for $60 shipped! looks like these guys should last a good long time. Old tubes were fine, but no sense in not replacing them with leakguards while everything is out. I'll hang onto the old ones in the spares box should I ever need an emergency backup. Bearings were cleaned and re-packed, and wheels re-installed. Additionally, the brakes are off and cleaned. They'll be re-lined as soon as my brake-rivet dies from Cleveland get here.

Two or three hours over several days were devoted to the lower cowl scoop attachment. I mixed up the West Systems with a good bit of filler to make a paste which would fill any voids around the scoop/cowling seam, then covered it with one layer of fiberglass to strengthen the transition. The next day, the inside was sanded and two more layers added to the joint for structural support.

Once the wheels were back on and she was off of the jack stands, it was safe to climb back in the cabin and complete some punch-list items like cable clamps, the fuel line from the pump to the firewall, nut-plates in the panel to attach the GRT Sport, and installing the ELT antenna just behind the passenger seat-back support.


I've got a whole long list of minor things that would be good to do before mounting the engine but which could be done after as well. I didn't make a ton of progress over the past few weeks because I keep going back and forth on what to do and when. Here's what I still need to do:

Cockpit:
-Measure wiring runs for CPI ei, then wait 3-4 weeks for delivery of the system so the user interface and wiring can be run (not complaining, just trying to organize the list based on what I have on hand currently.)
-Swap fuel pump switch with a s700-2-50 to add momentary power to primer
-Move flap switch to instrument panel (currently on sub-panel) to make room for throttle/mixture and carb heat controls)

Panel/Wiring:
Pre-run 18g shielded P-Lead wire for impulse mag.
Run Mag-tach wire to EIS
Pre-run flowscan wires
Pre-run Primer solenoid wires
Paint and label panel
Secure antenna cables, and finalize all wire bundles behind panel
Install Vent SCAT hose inside cabin

Gear:
-Rivet on brake pads (Avery dies should be here from Cleveland in a few days)
-Brake Lines: fill with fluid and test.


Cowling:
-Continue filling and smoothing transition area between outer cowling and scoop.

-Finish nosewheel fairing (wheel-pant) install (nutplates for nose-cone, then fill, sand, prime and paint)

-Install nosegear-leg fairing
Match drill and rivet piano hinge, fit to gear leg with hose clamps top and bottom. (be sure to keep hinge pin longer than the hinge, so it can be secured below.)
-Make a transition fairing for between the noseleg fairing and lower cowl.


Re-build & Install Engine
Install Baffling
Plumb fuel & Oil LInes, -fuel flow transducer, primer
Build Airbox + Connect to cowl scoop
Throttle, Mixture, and carb heat Controls
Wiring: CHT, EGT, Oil Temp Probes
Alternator & Regulator Wiring
Exhaust Tubes + check for


Install wings, flying surfaces, stabilizer and rudder
Build center fuel selector support, clean fuel selector and hook up final fuel lines.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 10-15-2016, 12:43 PM
BruceMe's Avatar
BruceMe BruceMe is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 713
Default Same same

I'm doing the same thing as you on an older RV-6 O-320 that suffered a roll over. I had to check the engine and replace the cam bolt (wood prop strike), replace the canopy and left fuel tank, repair the cowl, left leading edge and wing tips and fresh paint. I'm probably going to replace the panel as well, but I've kept it simple for now, removing the vacuum gauges and going D10A and adding IFR with a GX-65 + TruTrak Pic Pilot w/Alt ($400 total)

Today I'm putting the new left tank back on and repainting the wings. Then assembly and engine test. I keep saying I'm weeks away... but how many weeks

.. Oh yeah and here's my blog if anyone wants to see the whole journal.
__________________
Bruce Meacham

Built/Own RV-4 254MM
Owned RV-6 4074V
First RV RV-3 3456B

VAF annual donation on autopay
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 10-15-2016, 01:03 PM
BruceMe's Avatar
BruceMe BruceMe is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 713
Default Ground terminal / blade buss

Where did you get that ground terminal blade bus?

Looks really good and I have the Homer Simpson ground... here here here here and here! "Now why does the radio hum?!"

-Bruce

[Edit] - Duh, where all cool aircraft stuff is from A/S...
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...clickkey=10560
__________________
Bruce Meacham

Built/Own RV-4 254MM
Owned RV-6 4074V
First RV RV-3 3456B

VAF annual donation on autopay

Last edited by BruceMe : 10-15-2016 at 01:05 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 10-16-2016, 04:41 PM
j-red j-red is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lewes, DE
Posts: 262
Default

You found it.

I've already read your blog, and appreciate you posting it, as it helps me think through the order of things.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 10-28-2016, 10:19 PM
j-red j-red is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lewes, DE
Posts: 262
Default

Lots of waiting and very little progress this week. I bled the brakes and to my dismay, they leaked... all over. I suppose I should have pre-emptively rebuilt the master cylinders given that they're now 17 or more years old now, but I didn't, and three out of the four started leaking immediately. So.... I bought new o rings locally and installed them. Filled the system again, and.... still leaking out the tops. Drained it a second time, and replaced the o rings with the Cleveland spec'd ones from Spruce. No more leaks. At least, not right there. One of the aluminum lines from the firewall fitting to the gear leg was leaking due to a bad flare. Now, I could spend a hundred dollars on a flaring tool just to redo this one bad end, or I could fab up a stainless braided ptfe line with AN hose ends for about $25 bucks. Normally I'm a "buy the too and have it for the next time" kind of guy, but I don't foresee needing it again on this build, so the $25 option it is. Finally, brakes are done!
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 11-11-2016, 01:52 PM
j-red j-red is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lewes, DE
Posts: 262
Default Update November 1-11

After receiving the sds ignition kit, i finally had all of the pieces for my panel. The kit came with a template which was aligned then cleco'd in place while i rough cut the hole, then used a pattern bit in the router to clean it up. The result was a perfectly shaped opening for the cpi module. Everything was then uninstalled, the panel removed, deburred, cleaned and painted, then labeled and reinstalled. I still need the passenger warning, but otherwise it's complete and the instruments are in for the final time. All of the engine system wires have been run through the firewall, and there is just a little bit of cleanup and clamping to do behind the panel. The only significant systems that still need work are the final sections of pitot/static tubing and the manifold pressure connections (tying together the cpi & grt behind the firewall and the engine in front of it.).






Last edited by j-red : 10-14-2017 at 09:42 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 11-14-2016, 09:27 AM
dave4754's Avatar
dave4754 dave4754 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Edson, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 439
Default Nice work on the rebuild

What did you mean a pattern bit in your router?

Really nice job on cutout and install of CPI ignition panel
__________________
Dave Cobb
=VAF=2018 Donation - and a bit extra for great work!
Empennage RV 7 - Tipper
Wings complete

Fuse nearing completion, Canopy complete
AME reviewed and repaired O-320-Lyc installed
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 11-14-2016, 11:20 AM
j-red j-red is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lewes, DE
Posts: 262
Default

A pattern bit for the router has straight cutting blades with a bearing on the end the same diameter as the cutters. I drilled a couple of big holes and used my jig saw to rough cut the opening to within 1/8" or so of the final diameter. With the template cleco'd in place, the bearing on the router bit follows the contour of the template which guides the cut. Though they're made for wood, the carbide cutters slice through aluminum without knowing the difference.

I did mis-type the explanatory paragraph in the original post which may be adding to the confusion. The panel was removed before I did this, not after, and shaped on a stationary routing table.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:42 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.