What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

frayed cable issues

F

funflying

Well Known Member
I needed to pull a carb and to do so the choke cable needed to come out as many others I am sure have experienced. I had some heat shrink on the end but it needed to off to remove the cable.

Well to go back together the cable, starting frayed, just progressively got worse at I tried to re-insert the cable into the barrel where the cable is held in the choke arm. I got it through but is not pretty and likely could not go through this again. I am trying not to have to buy a new cable system to the tune of $96 + shipping.

Are there any techniques to re-twist a cable end? Or a device that can be attached to a shortened cable and be inserted into the choke mechanism? What about enlarging the hole in the barrel a little bit?
 
Thanks John!! I had heard about this technique but hadn't seen the video. It will be a little tougher for an installation on the plane and not on a bench. Also he wasn't going to run out of cable length in the demo, but it gives me ideas. Thanks
 
Get some bicycle brake cables from Wallymart and practice. Try taking a frayed end and heating it and twisting it tight to see if it will stay. Put a cold wet rag up by the outer shielding to protect it from heat transfer up the cable. Use a MAP gas torch.;)
 
funflying said:
....

Are there any techniques to re-twist a cable end? Or a device that can be attached to a shortened cable and be inserted into the choke mechanism? What about enlarging the hole in the barrel a little bit?
Click to expand...

This might work for a shortened cable -

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/wiregrip.php

05-16000.jpg
 
The try

I went to a bike shop to get a good pair cable cutters and stopped for lunch. I read Johns post and went back to the bike shop to get some spare cable to practice. The guy who helped me with the cutter was now in the shop working on a bike. He asked why I needed the cable and I told him about the frayed cable and showed him a picture. He said on the bikes he uses a super glue on a fresh cut end to prevent fraying. He suggested I clean the cable, then soak with glue, then twist the cable to get it back together.

I used Gorrilla super glue and tried it in sections moving towards the end. I left it clamped with my safety wire pliers and will follow up on Monday.
 
Gorilla glue is not the best selection. Take some sandpaper back when you go to hangar. When it dries it will expand and look a little like foam. It may work ok but you may have to sand off some of it after it dries. Thin CA glue would work much better. It is thin like water and will wick into the braid. It's used a lot in model airplanes and RC stuff.:p
 
You can remove the carb without touching the cables
Just unscrew two nuts, one for the chocke and one for the throttle.
Jose del Peso (120633)
 
jdelpeso said:
You can remove the carb without touching the cables
Just unscrew two nuts, one for the chocke and one for the throttle.
Jose del Peso (120633)
Click to expand...

Jose, if that is true I must have missed something. Recently removed the carbs and I couldnt find a way to get them off without removing the choke cables.
 
Correct Jose and John the removal of the two top screws of the silver dome will allow the holding device for the choke to come off once the 11mm nut is removed like with the throttle. I was told to me yesterday to use that procedure and avoid pulling cables out when ever possible.

John the guy at the bike shop did mention the possibility of having to use sandpaper after the glue drys. Heading by out this morning to see if I can get it back together.
 
John, see page 22-4 of the illustrated parts catalog.
You have to remove the nuts items 36 and 71
The choke lever ( item 34) and the throttle lever ( item 45) will remain with the
cables, separated from the carb
Jose del Peso (120633)
 
A bit of the thread drift but its all good information to have if your carb needs to come off.
Well the glue process worked. I had to trim off about 1/4in of cable and again added super glue after the cut. Once dry some sanding and actually some light filing and the cable inserted into the barrel. I re-inserted the cable into the tube and bracket which guides the cable. Into the bracket and barrel to hold the cable. Once tight with the allen set-screws all worked well. Test run and re-sync and all looks good.
 
Jetguy said:
Gorilla glue is not the best selection. Take some sandpaper back when you go to hangar. When it dries it will expand and look a little like foam. It may work ok but you may have to sand off some of it after it dries. Thin CA glue would work much better. It is thin like water and will wick into the braid. It's used a lot in model airplanes and RC stuff.:p
Click to expand...

There is more than one flavor of Gorilla glue. The urethane wood glue behaves as you describe. There is also a Gorilla-brand CA glue which is what I think the OP was referring to.

Super glue is a pretty good idea. If you have difficulty getting it to cure, use a "kicker".
Where conditions allow, I have had good success with lead-tin soft solder too.

No help for the current situation, but good quality cable cutters (bicycle brake cable cutters) go a long way from preventing the problem from starting. Super glue right after cutting would help a bit more.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top