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Setting Large AN470-6 rivets?.

J

JDA_BTR

Well Known Member
I'm reading ahead and seeing the AN470-6 rivets that get put in the tooling guide holes on the inboard and outboard fuel tank ribs. I don't have a C-frame; I have a DRDT-2. I also don't have a set for 470-6 rivets.

What tools can I get to set those rivets with a mallet and a steel back plate? Or with the DRDT2? Not sure what to get.
 
Soft 470 rivets work

You can use soft 470 rivets to plug the holes in the tank. No sets required just a hammer and a flat plate. I have plenty of them so send me a PM and I will mail you a few.
 
I used a 1/8" cup rivet set. Just drill a hole in something with some mass to fit the set. Cut the supplied rivets in half. Two or three hits with a hammer is all it takes. All you are doing is filling the hole, the black goo will seal it.
 
Use a flat set on the manufactured head such as you would do with a countersunk rivet. DO NOT over set these rivets as they will swell a lot and distort the thin metal of the rib. Set them just enough for the rivet to be secure in the hole where it will not move.
 
Many years ago I tried putting short AN470-6 rivets (standard hardness) into the tank tooling holes - it was a disaster. Slobbered with proseal the rivet slipped and skewed and looked horrible. I ended up drilling it out and riveting a small plate over the hole.

If the kit comes with soft rivets then this is probably the easiest way - I trust Vans to pick the best solution. Just be certain they are soft rivets.
 
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On two previous RV8 QB kits I built, those holes didn't have anything in them. They were just covered with pro seal on both sides.
None of those tanks ever leaked.
 
I just set those rivets. No big deal. I used my Sioux 3x gun on 19 psi. Before driving them, I shortened the rivets.

For the first one I used flat drivers as if it were a flat-head rivet. It flattened the factory head a bit but not badly. I'd call it entirely acceptable for this application.

For the second one, I remembered that I had a -6 round-head set and used that. Worked great.

Dave
 
Keep in mind the rivets don't need to be set to the point of having a rule of thumb standard shop head ( it is not structural, you only need to be confident it will stay in the hole).
You also don't need to install the rivet wet. Adding a coating of sealant over the rivet on the inside surface is more than adequate.
 
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The -7 has those holes too; I just cut a small plate from some scrap and attached it with a couple 3/32 rivets. It was easier than trying to find and set a couple of oddball rivets.
 
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