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tip-up reinforcement kit

Scott Will

Scott Will

Well Known Member
Got the skin on the canopy frame... yeah! Now it's time to do the reinformcent kit. How do you make the flanges on all 9 circles? Or are they needed at all? (In one pic I saw the gentlemen didn't make the flanges).

Did you put the reinforcements on when the canopy is off the aircraft - I was thinking that it might twist. Any guidance putting these pieces of metal on are appreciated.


Thanks much in advance!
 
Yes they need to be installed. You will find if you make the flanges on each hole that the reinforcement becomes unbelievably stiff. It almost makes it very difficult to even cleco them into place. They are fairly easy to install and you will find anything you can do to make the frame assembly stiffer is a good thing. Even after you complete the entire tip-up canopy you will wonder how this thing will survive if the wind ever catches it one time.

-Jeff
check out these pages...

http://www.jeffsrv-7a.com/FUSELAGE/05-02-22.htm
http://www.jeffsrv-7a.com/FUSELAGE/05-03-01.htm
http://www.jeffsrv-7a.com/FUSELAGE/05-03-05.htm
 
Yes, I know the reinforcements should (have) to be installed. Just wanna know if the bends on the holes needs to be accomplished. I tried doing it and didn't get the technique down.

You just cut a slit and go little by little around the circumference?
 
Yes, I used a block of Delrin about 3/8" wide and you will slit it about 5/16" deep and bend a little at a time and go round and round a few times carefully and you will create a smooth flange

FUSELAGE%20424.jpg
 
pay attention to the size of the rivet holes

It is possible to get the flange going in the wrong direction if you miss that the center part has pre punched holes of two different sizes, which is the clue for how it fits to the frame and skin. Also, hardwood might work instead of delrin and may be easier to find. Even it the flange is an "outie", it will still be OK.
 
Process for Tip-UP

I didn't see the answer to on or off the a/c, but I drilled the individual reenforcements to the frame while off the fuse. Then drill to the skin (aft edges) while on the fuselage. This should prevent any twist from getting into the assembly. Then again, there's enough weight on this that it's goign to flex anyway.

Jim
 
delrin is easly found it you...

hevansrv7a said:
Also, hardwood might work instead of delrin and may be easier to find..
Click to expand...

Just stop by any place that sells kitchen cutting boards, get the white plastic one. I had fun with a $2.00 board cutting it into various tools and spacers.

Kent
 
Yes, it is possible to get the flanges going the wrong way - our middle one went the wrong way - Doh !

Only the picky would notice :rolleyes:
 
I'm going to resurrect this thread rather than start a new one, because I have an issue that may be related to not having this reinforcement installed on my RV-6.

My RV-6 was built in 1996 (I'm not the builder, nor even the second owner), and does not have this reinforcement. I've looked in the Vans catalog and there is a "6, 7, 9 REINFORCE KIT - Canopy Brace Tip-up" but i'm not sure if this is it or not. Has anyone here installed the reinforcement on a flying RV-6?

My issue is that in flight, the canopy lifts at the front edge to expose a gap that's about 1/2" between the bottom of the tip-up rail and the window rail below it. I have been experimenting with various weatherstripping in an attempt to close this gap, but it's extremely difficult as the aft end of the canopy is latched down very close to the rail (1/16" or less), and this front edge lifts. On the ground taxiing, the gap seems to be no more than 3/16", so it's definitely an aerodynamic load. Will the reinforcement kit also stiffen this up?

When the canopy is closed on the ground, there is no visible gap from the outside. This only occurs in flight.

Any/all suggestions appreciated... :)
 
Snowflake said:
the canopy lifts at the front edge to expose a gap that's about 1/2" between the bottom of the tip-up rail and the window rail below it.

Will the reinforcement kit also stiffen this up?
Click to expand...

The answer to your question is no. The reinforcement only helps in twist during opening and closing.

What do you mean by "window rail" can you post a picture or explain where this 1/2" gap shows up during flight?
 
gasman said:
What do you mean by "window rail" can you post a picture or explain where this 1/2" gap shows up during flight?
Click to expand...
I can try to take a picture on next flight. Window rail = the canopy sill... The longeron that forms the sill that you step over to get in and out of the aircraft.

Basically, imagine someone sitting on your cowling, and reaching down and grabbing the front corners of your tip-up, and lifting up. I've confirmed that there is airflow out of the cockpit through that gap too, enough to suck a granola bar tightly into place on the inside...
 
Reviving and old thread

Rob I sent an email. I have found this same issue and have the reinforcement. It seems the entire canopy lifts, but have not gotten definitive measurements. Air does exit, though.

I went though great pain to ensure the latch pulls even and snug on both sides. No slop in the hinges, but definitely deformation (spring) somewhere, or everywhere.

If anyone as a solution I am all ears. The first goal is to ensure it will seal. The room available under the rails only allows the stock teardrop. Any seal with more stiffness (lbs/ft) won't allow the latch to close and will twist the latch bar resulting an insecure latching function. What ever the seal is it would have to accommodate the lifting if it is a compression seal.
 
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