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  #1  
Old 10-21-2019, 07:16 PM
nilberg nilberg is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 229
Default N741BN - Panel Review

Here's my two panel options:

Option 1: With Compass
As I need a 2 1/2 opening for the EI Commander, I was thinking of also have another 2 1/2 instrument, why not a compass..



Option 2: No compass
Dropping the compass (I am sure most readers will say "just do it !".
Some other placement options.

Photos looks a little blurry, here's the gallery: https://bjornnilberg.smugmug.com/RV-7
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Last edited by nilberg : 10-21-2019 at 08:09 PM. Reason: Fixed photo link
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  #2  
Old 10-21-2019, 10:15 PM
RV10Pilot RV10Pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Medford, NJ USA
Posts: 248
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I do like your switch layout. It is set up for using in-flight, strobe and pitot heat next to each other, boost pump, cowl flaps and flaps within close reach of the throttle.

You may want to consider some separation between the alt air, parking brake and cabin heat. You "may" allow your passenger to touch the cabin heat and the defrost fan switch, but with your current layout they are too close to other push-pulls that you would not want them to touch.
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  #3  
Old 10-21-2019, 11:01 PM
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fl-mike fl-mike is offline
 
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Option 2
Why a beacon? If you remove it you’ll get a little “feelable” space between the lights and alternator switches. Ergonomically desirable.
I’d move the starter button so you can use it with your left hand. You might be jockeying the mixture and throttle with your right while you are cranking.
I also put the flap and boost switch on the subpanel so I can thumb the flaps with my hand on the throttle. Very handy.
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  #4  
Old 10-21-2019, 11:07 PM
terrye terrye is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 799
Default N741BN - Panel Review

Regarding the compass, we have to have one in Canada, so I'm a supporter. But, the investigation I did convinced me that a panel mount compass may not be a good place due to the EM of the nearby radios and displays. I mounted mine on the slider longitudinal brace.

Regarding the push pull knobs, especially the cabin heat one that the co-pilot/passenger may be operating, I encourage you to mock this up with the co-pilot control stick travel. I found potential interference on mine and moved it to the right side of the lower panel.
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  #5  
Old 10-22-2019, 09:34 AM
nilberg nilberg is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 229
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Thank you for all the input.
I have separated some of the controls and made small adjustments:

- Distance between engine/flight and environmental controls. E.g. Distance between ALT AIR and DEFOG/HEAT.

- Use fuses for P-MAGS to clear space for left ENGINE START button

- TOGA at control bracket (my hands are too big for FLAPS close to controls)

- Combined STROBE/BCN switch
Yes, BEACON... is to avoid blinding other pilots when taxi. STROBE goes on when entering runway.

I also probably leave the BEACON on such that when MASTER is on, the BEACON is on. The OFF is used in the hanger when goofing around with the avionics (software updates etc.)

https://bjornnilberg.smugmug.com/RV-7

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  #6  
Old 10-22-2019, 09:59 AM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Very nice panel indeed. But I like option 2 better. You will be touching the 650 or the A/P controller a lot more than the EIC so higher up for those are more convenient and readable.

Some other thoughts, would it still fit if you swap the EIC and G5. If there is a real need to use the G5, it will be more useful in that location for both the pilot and co-pilot.
I would also consider moving the warning lights to somewhere that is not directly in your face. There will be hard to miss if they go on even on the right side of the panel but if they go on at night, they will be very distracting.
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  #7  
Old 10-22-2019, 11:34 AM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
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Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
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Some thoughts:
- For the pMags recommend a simple on/off locking toggle switch (one for each) and a 5 amp pull breaker (do not use your VPX). To test the pMags you do a simple manual trip of the breaker. This also provides for a visual “breaker popped open” indication as compared to a blown fuse someplace buried in the panel. This eliminates the momentary toggle switch setup to test the pMags as well. BTW, I think you labeled your momentary switch wrong as is seems “off - on - test” is what you want. Off - pMag control off but pMags get ship power. On - pMag control on and pMags get ship power. Test (momentary) - pMag control on but you take away ship power to make sure the internal generator is working. DPDT switch is required.
- I assume both EFIS displays are fed via the VPX. What mitigations have you taken in the event the VPX fails to keep at least one display up and running. Note - the GTN-650 displays is not a viable backup.
- You have a selection between primary and backup alternator. If you use the nice B&C 20 amp standby alternator there is no need for a selector switch. The standby alternator automatically picks up the load. You will have indication of this by the B&C voltage regulator yellow indication light coming on, and buss voltage dropping from the typical 14.1vdc to 13.5vdc or so.
- I’d leave the G5 where it is. If you are really down to just that you want it in front of you and as high as possible.

Carl
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  #8  
Old 10-22-2019, 12:28 PM
MercFE MercFE is offline
 
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Location: Maple Valley, WA
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For the PMag switches... If you do want to stay with the three position switch, you need to change the order to make it sensible.

Going through "off" to get the the momentary "test" which is basically another "off" doesn't make any sense, as the switch would then return to "off".

A two pole, on-off, would work fine.
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  #9  
Old 10-22-2019, 02:27 PM
rapid_ascent rapid_ascent is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dublin, CA
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Stein sells and Alt Air toggle switch valve. I stuck mine off to the left side of the panel since I don't plan on using it often and that gets it out of the main switch area. Plus you can route the tubing to the nearby G3 and etc. In your case you could put it above the G5 or possibly on the outboard side of it.
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  #10  
Old 10-22-2019, 04:21 PM
nilberg nilberg is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Katy, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MercFE View Post
For the PMag switches... If you do want to stay with the three position switch, you need to change the order to make it sensible.

Going through "off" to get the the momentary "test" which is basically another "off" doesn't make any sense, as the switch would then return to "off".

A two pole, on-off, would work fine.
Yes, my labeling is not ideal, your suggestion was what I intended, but I got a little sloppy, to focus on lining things up. I’ll use the LT-005 from Steinair which is a locking switch which would fit well for this purpose.
It’s a ON/ON/MOM, where switching between the two ON positions require pulling. The MOM is a spring loaded momentary ON.
So for me is will use it as OFF/ON/Ground which mean Own Power/Ship Power/No Sparks.
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Last edited by nilberg : 10-22-2019 at 04:25 PM.
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